Guess you didn't read any of my previous posts.

Daleon spec'ed the clutch with ATS. They wanted HP numbers. So we gave them what I wanted to run, 800hp. When the clutch slipped, Jon at MA contacted ATS to try and figure out what was going on. Come to find out the clutch was only spec'ed for 800hp and 530 ft/lb of torque. Everything you see from ATS is hp ratings. We had to ask for TQ ratings. So we got one to support 750 ft/lb of torque with a little wiggle room. It is what it is. So, when deciding on a clutch, make sure you ask for TQ numbers too. It's not like MA or I did this on purpose. It's just part of the process. Not many folks are crazy enough to get one of these. I chose it from Phunks advice and experience with his.

Original thread when I was looking.

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...in-disk-2.html

I did read your posts but missed that. That's weird that ATS would rate their clutches by hp. And you would think a clutch rated at 800hp would be rated over 530ft.lbs. I can see how you and MA figured you'd be fine. I agree, it is what it is, good thing you caught it now.

I was trying to be frugal. LMAO I should have just nutted up and got the triple from the start.

This is not the only clutch I have seen rated with HP numbers. Crazyness.

Yeah that was dumb lol

Your entire build is anything but frugal :tup: :driving:

LMAO, more like a classic case of excess.... Why on earth did I get frugal on this part is beyond me. :roflpuke2:

You guys ever noticed how many guests view this thread when it get's busy?

I did the same dumb ****. Spent thousands and thousands on the build and saved a couple hundred bucks not buying the last clutch I’d ever need. Then my kit decided it was going to make stupid torque levels and I’ve been on the ragged edge of burning it up since I installed it.

So I have to maybe upgrade to a triple... stupid rule

Jon will have to check what you have in your car. Then you can make an
informed decision. I know you run a normal clutch disk.

Hp numbers and clutches are all bs any z clutch can hold 900hp if you bolted it to an f1 engine. The torque rating of the clutch is the only thing that matters as its a static friction element. An f1 clutch only handles about 300lbft

Now you got me thinkin' about the ATS Dual Carbon with the lightweight flywheel. :shakes head:

Do it, I don’t know how the carbon is to begin with but the standard twin was insane at first

It is easy to upgrade to a triple if you ever go boosted.

What you did to up grade got the wheels spins in my head. :shakes head:

That shouldn’t take much :icon17:

:stirthepot:

Just realize that the carbon disks aren't cheap. Everything else is very reasonable. Frictions and pressure plate are in a normal price range. I would run that stock clutch as long as I could if you are staying NA for a while.

Are the carbon disks sprung or un-sprung?

I'm starting now to get my ducks lined up for next winter project. :tup: Pretty much know on what I want to get.

It is un-sprung. Look at the pictures and you will have an idea of how the frictions and carbon disk is setup.

Are you doing a TT upgrade this winter or are you doing the clutch and shifter this winter by themselves. You may want to get a clutch that can hold 625 ft/lb of torque. Not sure what your future plans are.

This winter, clutch, and shifter. Maybe a few smaller items.

Is a TT upgrade in your future? If so, get a clutch that can support it on a stock block. That way you don't have to mess with it again.

I am ready to be driving. Got the tracking number for the clutch parts. They will be in the first of next week. Holiday weekend messed up the shipping a bit. 7-10 working days for it to hit MA from Japan. I hope the ATS guy got all the parts we needed and they are correct. Fingers crossed.

A sinking feeling hit me the last couple of days with this crazy heat we have been having. Sitting in traffic during an accident and watching the water temps climb due to lack of air flow. Guess I will see what happens and be ready to order some Tracspec vents for the hood.

Turn the heater on and the fan to high...LMAO!

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Done that a time or three. :rofl2:

Forget that, I just ordered the dang vents.

I have too. My 280zt, I could just pop the hood latch and the back of the hood would raise up creating a vent. Worked like a champ.

:iagree:

On what car?:confused:

None yet. That's what will happen to me when I get my 370ztt back. It would drive me crazy on my 1975 280zt. My 1975 hood doesn't have any vents like the 1977 and 1978 280z's did.

Yeah,i liked the vents on my 77 280.I had to do the pop the hood trick on several of my 240s and 260s.

Stuff a turbo in there and it get's even worse. One of my favorite Z's was my 1978 280z.

I have to admit my 77 was my favorite of all the S30s i owned mainly because it it had factory air and a 5spd.(the fuel injection was a nice touch too)

I have a dual Intake Air Temp gauge to keep a close eyeball on the I/C performance as well.
Makes me nervous sitting in traffic with no air flow thru the I/C watching the temps creep past the safe zone.

Tracspec vents were in stock and they are shipping out tomorrow.

MA-Motorsports recommended and installed a CSF Triple Pass radiator for my build (replacing the Mishimoto) So far - So good, although I haven't been out with the car on a really hot day the temps have been OK.
There's a lot packed in there besides the radiator looking for airflow.
The massive CJM I/C and the heat exchangers for the oil cooler and air conditioner.

Put a manual override switch on cooling fans & turn them on while in traffic,etc...but the added vents would allow the heat to get out of engine bay :tup:

You don't have to with the A/C running all the time. The fans run all the time.