Can't go wrong with this oil pan! To the best of my knowledge, this is the only true "active" design for our beloved Z!

I have it. It works great. I developed a small crack leak but it was welded back and problem fix. Not sure if I hit something or bad weld. Ps. I have a used one with a very small bend that I could sell. No leaks just replace it once the nose got fix. I drove it for 2 weeks without an issue. Just bought a new one since my auto insurance pay for a OEM one on the estimate.

Hey guys, so finally got the car tuned, limited to 6500RPM at the moment, mafs were maxed out, ordered new ones with UpRev.

made 320KW at the wheels or 430rwhp on 98 pump fuel here in Aus, they said should get another 15-20KW at the wheels once the limiter is raised to normal (Previous was 370HP with the standard stillen gear and frozen boost heat exchanger with a custom tune on same dyno).

So here's the questions as I'm going E85 straight from here;
If I change these 2 pulleys which I've seen some people do and pulling 650-700rwhp, what Belt will I need to run? - https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...-300/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...-347/overview/

Also, has anyone upgraded to say a Nismo oil pump/aftermarket pump and raised rev limiter?

Stock Gates 8PK562 will be OK but you may experience a little bit belt slip under high engine RPM (starting from 6000). Getting a 36225 3" idler will be better. Or you can use RPM belt but it will be more brittle. The degree of slip depends on the setup of preset boost. The higher the boost the higher the chance you encounter belt slip.

Cheers mate! I'll check out those item numbers, is the 3" idler instead of anything else I've posted or get that as well? This one here? - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ado-36225

So pretty much pointless changing out oil pump/increasing RPM?

I prefer the one of Gates
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-36225-I.../dp/B002R74YU6

The effectiveness is the same to keep the tension as long as you make sure you get a 3" OD idler.

I see no reason to overrev your engine for SC'd Z especially if your using a self-lubricated head unit. The max RPM of your SC has already set a upper bond. Below that you can simply change the pully setup to get the power you need. Be sure to not go overboard to exceed its compressor efficiency otherwise the heat soak issue will make you beat a dead horse.

What oil pump are you using?

Is there benefit going to solid mount or poly motormounts for this kit to help reduce bracket/belt flex?

FWIW - I went solid motor mounts b/c there was so little clearance between my throttle bodies & the strut tower bar.

As everything is bolted to the motor I wouldn't think so. There used to be a custom support made for these.

I have been running this Kit for over 2 years, I have factory Motor mounts and have no issues.

Some people have had issues with the Stillen bracket flexing (hence the custom brace) but I think it was the the guys running a cog set up. I may be wrong.

Is this the 9lb boost pulley? My best measurement is it’s 2.85” but i could really use a caliper for this stuff. It was included with the kit but I didn’t use it cuz I’m an idiot as overboosting is hard to do at this elevation.
Seems like I should really be using it because I’m already running tbatt’s no-slip kit (on the 8lb pulley—like an idiot) and am guessing that’s better designed for the 9lb setup.
And using this 2.85” pulley for scale on the idler below (guessing maybe 2 3/8 sound about right?) that is the idler I need to change out to the gates 36225 which I think is a 3”?

If your running the Tbatt's kit, 2.87" pulley (a.k.a. the 9psi pulley) will be fine. No need to change its idler on the serpentine side.

Oh man! You hadn't been running the high boost pulley I included with the kit? That is totally why you are seeing such low numbers. Get that baby on there and re-tune. You will pick up some good power.

Yes, the stock tensioner will pick up the slack.

I had that exact support brace but sold it since I have never had issues with flex ,although I am only running 9.5 - 10 lbs of boost.

:bowdown: Wow - what's your setup? How are you getting that much boost? If this is detailed somewhere, can you point me to it? I'm only getting 8lbs if I run it all the way to redline & maybe a bit above.

I am running the 9 LB pulley and the upgraded Si trim V3 impeller with a extra pulley setup to prevent Belt slip.

Stupid question: Is it easier to switch out the S/C pulley to the 9 psi one and risk belt slip at higher RPM's? Or change out the pulley on the other side of the bracket b/c it has a tension adjuster underneath?

The 9 psi pulley everyone is talking about goes on the front (serpentine) side.

9psi on serp. Then add my no slip pulley.

Gotcha. Thank you guys

So is Tbatt's kit only necessary with higher boost numbers?

Tbatt and Topgunz both offer a no slip idler pulley for the serpentine side. It's a good idea for higher boost applications.

Twincharged?
 

I haven’t seen any results when I search on VHR although it looks like Topgunz did it on a DE/HR? Nobody done it on VHR? What do you think about it? Build the block closed deck maybe 9:1 compression, mid or rear mount turbo, turbo piping would go in right before the IC. Doable? I know Redondoaveb already has a wastegate setup he shpuld do it, or at least that’s the next step of progression we could do.
I know newer Volvos are doing twincharged but their reliability is awful, been done on WRX’s but that’s kinda stupid bcuz you gotta build the motor, the tranny... think we could do better on this VQ?

Please move this entire conversation to a new thread. This will clog up information on the A2A thread that will be of zero value to anyone interested in A2A.

Ecutek or uprev? What's best for this kit and the stillen supercharger?

Both can achieve effective and efficient tuning. It's really up to the tuner. It will be better replacing your MAFs with the UpRev MAF GT sensors when using UpRev. ECUTek offers SD-hybrid tuning allowing tuner to tune your Z based on MAFs and MAP - an alternative and flexible solution. Should you will run E85, ECUTek has been the only tool I have seen here for tuning flex fuel so far.

I would only recommend Ecutek. The pro tuners who tune with both platforms will highly encourage you to Ecutek tune.

Thanks guys looks Like I'll be selling my uprev cable and lisence them.

Data is regarding the supplied filter with the kit.

So to go back to the filter question and R&D. I installed everything, ran no filter, and saw 12.6 psi. My tuner suggested that I put the filter on to protect from grime buildup and we would continue tuning. Yesterday I put the filter on and did some pulls. The most pressure I saw was 7.6 psi, giver or take .5 psi.

To recap:
Filter off: 12.6 psi
Filter on : 7.6 psi

I've had this kit on two cars now and I've threads showing how thoroughly I've searched for leaks or low boost pressure causes. It was this simple all along...

Also, to be clear, this is a fantastic kit! Aaron has done an awesome job! Like everything else, we just find ways to make it more efficient.

Which filter ? The small one supplied?

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Yes

You should still be seeing more than 7.6 psi with the stock filter. I was seeing a little over 10 psi with the 9 lb pulley and the stock filter.

I don't disagree with you, but I have data logs that say that I stay right around 11.5 psi, with peaks in the 12's without the filter on.

Reviewing the logs from last night, I was seeing 5, maybe 6 psi consistently with the filter on.

The only change between the logs was putting the filter on.

I know the filter is extremely restrictive. I lost 5 psi when I installed a prefilter over my Turbo Guard screen. I just wonder why you're making such low boost with the set up that everyone else consistently see's 10 psi with.

If you have the 9 psi pulley and the Si trim then you should be seeing 14-15psi without a filter. By only getting 11.5-12 means there's something else wrong. It has to be a boost leak, belt slip, or pulley sizing issues.
I see you have a lightweight crank pulley. Tiny increments in that will make huge moves up top. Start there.

The lightweight crank pulley stayed on the other Z and is OEM diameter. I also have the Vortech high traction pulleys 3.15-3.00 on the SC side, so no belt slip there. I've used belt conditioner on both belts, and have TBatt's no-slip pulley, so I don't think they are slipping. Pressure tests hold 20 psi with little drop off when air is secured.

So you have a 3.15 Jackshaft pulley and a 3.00 supercharger pulley? With that combination and the 2.85 serpentine pulley you should be making an additional pound of boost so really you should be seeing 15-16psi without a filter. The filter has shown to drop the boost down by 4psi so you should be seeing close to 12psi with it on. Something is definitely not right. Can you confirm with a caliper the size of your pulleys?

I’m at 8PSI with 9lb pulley and Si. Elevation plays a factor but no leak pretty sure we tested when I was at 7lbs with stock 8lb pulley. Sounds like turtle’s filter is giving a huge drop.
How long have people ran with no filter just screen? The idea terrifies me with rubber belt dust getting in boosted piping seems like a matter of time before it finds it’s way through the valves into cylinder but clearly huge gains to be had.
I remember somebody explaining something I believe to Patrick about if you change to small pulleys it can over power the filter somehow decreasing boost? Don’t remember but elaborate if that phenomenon rings a bill.
Anybody tried doing their own tunes? I would play around with pulleys and filters more if I could be tweaking my own tunes otherwise it’s too much of a hassle

If you're getting belt dust then you've got belt slippage and it must be coming from the serpentime side if you're concerned about it getting sucked into the sc. I'm more concerned about contaminates getting sucked through the intake system and gunking up the mafs and throttle bodies. For the same reason I have my oil changed more often.

If you're concerned about running just the screen you could get it tuned with the screen and then install a pre-filter for daily use. The pre-filter I tried (Filterwears) cut my boost by 5 psi but it can be removed in about 10 seconds if you want to increase your boost level for race situations.

I don't remember anyone mentioning anything about too small of pulleys over powering the filter but I'm old and my memory isn't that good (that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it) :icon17:

You have to be certified by Ecutek if I'm correct in order to be able to use their tuning software and most tuners lock their tune so you wouldn't have access to it without their permission.

I can't confirm them at the moment other than placing the order for the pulleys directly with Vortech. I confirmed the 9lb serp side since I bought it secondhand.

I'll be taking a hiatus for awhile for a short deployment, so I'm not ignoring anyone, just under the ocean. I'm hoping some R&D gets done for a better intake setup while I'm gone. I will happily contribute whatever and however I can!

This thread has been absolutely fantastic in leading the way for the A2A setup and figuring out everything together!

Thank you all! See ya on the flip side.