Originally Posted by turtle64b (Post 3741486)

Would you guys mind sending me some of your data snippets that you send off to be used for tuning? I have an anomaly where one MAF (bank 1) is reading almost a volt lower than the other at times and I wanted to see if anyone else's car was doing the same. Thanks!

I'm at turtle64b@aol.com

EDIT: To follow up on this, it seems that there is not equal flow through the intake Y-pipe.

Swapping MAFs gave the same anomaly on bank 1, swapping the connection moved the anomaly to bank 2, and swapping the MAF while still connected to the same harness also moved the anomaly to the other bank. This means that at idle and light-medium acceleration, air flow through the two branches of intake Y, in my case, are significantly different. Since the Y pipe meets again in the manifold and the air mixes, the bank associated with the MAF that has the anomaly is getting much more air than sensed by its associated MAF and the other bank is getting less. This would explain my lean condition as well as the sometimes very rich condition that happens at idle.

Is anyone else experiencing this? If you look at your datalogs, it looks like one MAF reading out much lower than the other one. This can be dangerous for the engine as one bank will run rich and the other bank will run lean, potentially dangerously.

Originally Posted by nic370 (Post 3743433)

Changed my filter set up today make life easy when changing the filter etc.
I had to open the area of the stock intake up a bit but all in all happy with the results
I'm not chasing every last bit of power so I happy with a little restriction but in all honesty car feels the same but back on the dyno soon for a bit more tuning
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Jayhovah (Post 3743510)

So I've had two stupid ideas tonight about adjusting the intake setup on this kit...

Stupid idea #1 - could you fab up an airbox/manifold to mate to the front of the SC and then pipe that to a filter in the bumper? Still would deal with a 90 degree barrier in flow but at least you'd have more cross sectional area in the path?

Stupid idea #2 - use one of those rock-screen setups on the SC and then add a filter before the IC (or farther downstream before the TB's)? Can't think of a reason why the filter couldn't be pressurized..

I have been drinking.

Originally Posted by MoulaZ (Post 3743464)

I did a similar setup a while ago. Definitely felt a significant loss of power. Got any more info on that silicone coupler off the SC?

Originally Posted by bikeking (Post 3743521)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...44435651f3.jpg I’ve thought about an airbox idea, I’ve seen a few builds using one.



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Originally Posted by jchammond (Post 3744103)

I wouldn’t put a filter on the pressure/boosted side of induction,
As it could force it into your engine or at least dis-figure it & cause disruption in boost.
I’ve seen a few screens on the pressure side of oem diesels (heavy duty w/large holes) but nothing as restrictive as a filter.
When you say bumper; are you speaking of crash bar? As these are modified for various use of different filters & even replaced with smaller tubular ones (such as Fast-Intentions).
Nothing wrong with brainstorming on new ideas; as all these are custom & not oem.

Originally Posted by TBatt (Post 3741655)

Have you replaced the Stillen extension cables with the later version? The original cables are a known problem.

Originally Posted by mikey1600 (Post 3745787)

Are these purchased direct from Stillen or aftermarket? can't seem to find them online and I'm still running the original ones.

Originally Posted by Optimiser (Post 3747907)

My car is at my shop all this week to have the 928 impeller and bearings/seals/ upgrade, have a better intake fabricated so as not to have to use the little flat filter, service, Uprev ARC update and retune on the dyno. :driving:

Originally Posted by cupcakez (Post 3747912)

is the impeller gold from 928 or is that a specially ordered custom gold impeller?

Originally Posted by cupcakez (Post 3747912)

is the impeller gold from 928 or is that a specially ordered custom gold impeller?

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 3747943)

Myself and others have done some testing with using a different filter and nothing is better than the one provided with the kit. But, it will be hard to say if you picked anything up or lost anything if you go with both impeller and intake mods at the same time as that impeller, assuming you will re-pulley and spin at 60K+, is going to pick up some good power.

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 3748299)

Fair enough.

FWIW I had the stage 3 street with quiet disk and i loved everything about it. Next to stock feel, barely audible, not grabby and it held 510wtq all day. If i ever need a clutch again thats the one id buy. The stage 2 Im sure is very similar with a slight lighter feel and probably cheaper.

Originally Posted by phunk (Post 3748399)

Early G37 often have a 350z fuel pump housing which doesnt have the hat breaking issue of the 370z or later G37 that use 370z style fuel pump housings.

I have not yet come up with a way to determine which fuel pump housing is in the G37 other than just pulling it from the tank and looking at it.

Originally Posted by jwick (Post 3748449)

That’s interesting. Wonder which one I have. How early are we talking?

Originally Posted by bcfromfl (Post 3748283)

I just ordered the clutch/flywheel from ZSpeed, and Joe asked me about torque numbers at the wheel. I told him no more than 410, and probably 390-400 on 93 octane. I also told him I will never launch the car, or track it. He actually recommended his Stage 2 EZ-Street Quiet Clutch, and while he said I'd be at the upper limits of what the clutch is rated for, that I'd be very pleased with the day-to-day operation of it.

Anyway, long story short, I'm starting to get nervous that I told him the right numbers, and went through this thread and dug out Turtle's, overture's, and redondo's dyno charts. Theirs were lower than what I told Joe...so I think I'm safe. Anyone else with torque numbers on A2A?

Originally Posted by bcfromfl (Post 3748283)

I just ordered the clutch/flywheel from ZSpeed, and Joe asked me about torque numbers at the wheel. I told him no more than 410, and probably 390-400 on 93 octane. I also told him I will never launch the car, or track it. He actually recommended his Stage 2 EZ-Street Quiet Clutch, and while he said I'd be at the upper limits of what the clutch is rated for, that I'd be very pleased with the day-to-day operation of it.

Anyway, long story short, I'm starting to get nervous that I told him the right numbers, and went through this thread and dug out Turtle's, overture's, and redondo's dyno charts. Theirs were lower than what I told Joe...so I think I'm safe. Anyone else with torque numbers on A2A?

Originally Posted by wideglideleon (Post 3748799)

See my other posts, our stock autos don't last long when boosted. I tried mine has lasted 20,000 with a VERY CONSERVATIVE tune just about 400whp. That's with a 19 core Setrab cooler on it and SEB increasing the line pressure also.

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 3748299)

Fair enough.

FWIW I had the stage 3 street with quiet disk and i loved everything about it. Next to stock feel, barely audible, not grabby and it held 510wtq all day. If i ever need a clutch again thats the one id buy. The stage 2 Im sure is very similar with a slight lighter feel and probably cheaper.

Originally Posted by mikey1600 (Post 3749915)

TL;DR - made 440rwhp on 93 US fuel equivalent with MAF's maxed out (UpRev).

So not bad news from me guys, finally got my limp mode thing sorted out, it was infact the flywheel as suspected, so if it ever happens to anyone else, car would only rev to like 3k, ran like a complete dog, timing was stuck on 25 degrees.

Now the good news, finally got word my car is starting to be tuned, almost finished so should get it back this week (public holiday tomorrow here in Australia for ANZAC day so hopefully Thurs/Fri). Car was making around 330rwkw (about 440rwhp) on 98 RON Pump fuel, about equiv to your 93 when the MAF's maxed out, was previously UpRev tuned so had to stick with the same guys to try work out what the limp mode was. Don't have a dyno sheet yet, will try get one when I pick it up.

I'll be going ahead with the UpRev GT Maf's and switching to E85 + final tune when they arrive. Will keep everyone posted in the coming weeks, this gives everyone else the other option as I'm not sure if anyone else is still running UpRev with this kit + other mods.

Originally Posted by ByThaBay (Post 3750020)

Why not just run ecutek? :)

Originally Posted by mikey1600 (Post 3750214)

See previous posts in the thread, last thing I'm wanting to do is try switch to a different tuning software/tuner when the cars been in limp mode for so long and hadn't been tuned at all with all the new changes, SC upgrade, injectors, pump, a2a kit, return fuel system etc..

Originally Posted by turtle64b (Post 3750392)

I don't think any of the boosted guys are running UpRev? I ran UpRev for my NA tune, but all fingers pointed to transitioning to Ecutek when I transitioned to forced induction. Given the level of experience of the guys tuning our cars (Seb and Eugene), you could easily find a very solid, relatively drive-able starting tune with Ecutek, with the second revision most likely being daily drive-able. The UpRev MAFs won't function with Ecutek, to my knowledge.



Good luck with everything man!