The mafs get maxed out by a supercharger when making X whp sooner than a turbo setup since the SC needs to blow more air to make equal HP of a turbo.

So the big single turbo is going to allow you to go to 500whp on stock mafs where the SC unit will max them out before that.

Ever considered providing taller stand offs on the MAF with your kit. That’ll allow you to cheat and get a little more power out of the stock MAFs.

I stand corrected, I'm sorry about that!

Yes, my pipes have the tall maf flanges in them.

Can anyone explain the crash bar? It has all these wires and connections on it—is it’s purpose to not only absorb impact but somehow house the sensors for airbags hence the plug ins? I saw somebody on this thread had someone cut into their oem to fit the intercooler and add rigidity, others go FI crashbar. I thought the guy i was working with on a 370z last week had older? Different brackets and still used his oem. I’m trying to keep safety features best i can.

How are you doing on kits and parts? Parts have been trickling in to Seb. Can't wait for everything to be ready and get it all installed and tuned.

Sebs should have the entire supercharger kit at this point. PM me if he is missing something.

I, too, would appreciate some input on this. Where/how to make the cuts and re-weld, etc.

Maybe the G has some extra safety features like forward crash detection or something. I have never heard of wired sensors in the crash bar on a Z.

I thought the sensor in the crash bar was the temperature sensor.

Temp it must be. Gonna deal with crashbar later when i get new bumper on, work is picking up and my RFS supposed to arrive wednesday so no time to mess with crashbar now. Hopefully i’m boosted and doing datalogs in a week!

Just out of curiosity...has anyone got any 1/4-mile times on pump gas? I'm guessing 11.25 to 11.50, maybe 120-125mph?

I'm going to test the 1/4 mile once my car is up and running again hopefully by the end of this month latest (This includes the engine swap with a bunch of new upgrades added with a mean ECUtek Tune while taking off the dreaded bad Stillen tune!
I will be running 91 octane at first, since my car won't be tuned or capable of efficiently holding E85 yet.
So once I get those results i will definitely post them!!

The following upgrades that will be on the car when the car is up and running again is as follows:

[x] KW V3 Suspension
[x] Quaife LSD
[x] X pipe, Magnaflow custom exhaust
[x] Fresh GTR Spark Plugs
[x] Fresh O2 Sensors
[x] Fresh 1050x ID
[x] 928 Exclusive Impeller & Double High Speed Bearings for V3 SCi
[x] Upgraded V3 SCi Supercharger
[x] TopgunZ full A2A Conversion Kit
[x] ATI Super Damper Pulley; Stock Size
[x] Fresh YellowTop Optima Battery
[x] Whiteline Differential Bushings
[x] 3.0" & 3.47" Supercharger Side Pulleys
[x] 9psi Pulley on Serpentine side
[x] Z1 High Pressure Radiator Cap
[x] Z1 Thermal Gold Reflective Tape
[x] Fresh OEM Nissan Coolant

As for the engine specs:

[x] RJM Closed Deck VQ37HR short bare block + added crank / Set of heads

[x] Spec IV IPP block which includes:
- Wiseco or JE Pistons .020 over
- Carillo H Beam Rods
- ARP WMC 3/8" Rod Bolts
- ARP L19 Head Bolts
- Block inspected and cleaned
- Block redecked
- Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
- Rotating assembly balanced
- Crank magnafluxed and the journals micro-polished
- New Moly coated Race Spec main bearings installed
- New Moly coated Nissan OEM rod bearings installed
- Block prepped and assembled
- Cometic Head Gaskets
- Jim Wolf Technology(JWT) Exhaust Cams
- JWT High RPM Valve Spring
- JWT Valve Spring Shim
- JWT Extended Cam Sprocket Bolts
- JWT Cam Sprocket Bolt Washer
- JWT Rear Camshaft Bolt
- JWT Cam Bolt Seal - Copper
- Heads inspected and cleaned
- Heads redecked
- Ported exhaust and intake runners
- 5 angle valve job
- New OEM Valve stem seals installed
- Valve Stem Heights set
- Cold Clearance set for stock cams
- Heads prepped and assembled
- New OEM Oil Pump

Engine will come with Heads bolted to block and torqued to spec

Wow...

A lot depends on your 60' time ... biggest help here are the tires.
Just guessing - High 11's and 120 ish

300k's on supercharger after Si upgrade and it's completely seized up, won't move, anyone else had this happen? I've rang the Australian distributor here and I have to send the unit back to them for inspection, surely it's something wrong with the install of the new components/bearings?

Anyone else had this happen?

had previously done 40,000k's on the unit before upgrades..

Hi Mikey, I'm getting my SC upgraded with the ceramic bearings, seals and impeller through my normal workshop at present. I'don't know if they're doing themselves or sending it elsewhere. I'd hate to experience the same problem as you just have.

Who is the Australian distributor you mention?

I did the same thing not too long ago.
Luckily I found a local mobile mechanic willing to do it for me for a good price.
His work was flawless. The clearance between the 928 impeller and the outer edge is perfect.

Just make sure you don't lose the small rectangular key that goes into the Supercharger to keep the pulley from spinning or you may lose boost I think.

When we opened mine...my key thing fell out so we were like wow I was loosing boost probably the entire time!!
Also, my outer edge impeller blade (circular part) got chipped -- not sure where the chipped piece went or how long it was chipped for, but it is now replaced with the 928 impeller along with high speed bearings and such.

Yay!

Good luck with your install and I hope all goes well.

The key on the external shaft pulley is either in there or it isnt. If it fell out then it was in there and the mechanics of it are impossible for it to have not locked the pulley into place. You were not loosing boost.

Hey guys just to clarify, I need to make a cut for the charge pipe right? Anyone worked around it? I have long tube intakes already but I would need to re-route piping to get the charge pipe down there and may still need to fab and that would be extra piping.
Just curious what people have done before I whip out the dremel since what I’m cutting is pretty sturdy/possibly structural.
I think that’s the only cut i have to make but could be wrong since blower isn’t on yet.

Dremel away!

Did you get the install instructions? The cut is there and on the other side for the SC volute.

Yours or stillen’s? I’ve saved a PDF of stillen not sure how much different yours would be

Mine covers all of the Air to Air piping, intercooler, cutting required, etc... Stillens does not. PM me your email.

CAPA is the Aussie distributor for Vortex who it was sent to, will get it off the car next week and sent back to them to inspect what happened

Where is best place to put wideband? Where Y pipe joins I suppose after cats/TP’s? And for flex fuel tuning is it best to start off full e85? Car show this weekend hope install is done and waiting on base map from Seb tryin to not bother him too much just hoping car is good enough to drive to mountains

anyone in cali running this kit? do you need to dirty smog it or do they not know the difference between a normal stillen and this conversion?

It doesn't have a CARB sticker so I doubt you'll pass normal smog with it.

Thanks very much for that Mikey. :tiphat:

i was talking more about the people who have the carb legal stillen kit then did the air to air conversion

Oh, I got mixed up and thought this was the kit thread. Didn't realize it was the conversion thread.

With regards to mapping is the mapping done with closed loop fuelling or closed loop fueling for light load and open loop on high load?

The mapping can be done in both modes as long as transients are observed and all other standing corrections are factored into the calibration to get a true error/correction required. Typically it is not possible to do closed loop mapping since the ECU will enter open loop with AFR targets outside of the 14.7 range (anything 14.69 and below will trigger open loop).

Fuel trims should be within 20% roughly. If you see 75s or 125s, don’t drive. Ignition corrections should be at a minimum.

I'd assume you'd be fine as long you stay out of boost. I was pretty impressed with how my base tune from Seb was.

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This should be moved here...http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...rger-kits.html

Otherwise, people will assume you are going from stillen kit to A2A vs. fullly new forced induction kit.

I am curious about this as well. My smog guy doesn't give many ***** about visual stuff but if he saw a supercharger on it he would still need to see the CARB sticker. I really don't think he would the know the difference between the stillen kit with or w/o the a2a conversion. I want to buy the stillen kit and then do the conversion sooooo badly. Living in cali blows, need to move and just TT the bish.

That woudl probably work, just more costs buying a complete turn-key stillen it then doing the A2A conversion. It's too bad you don't get the CARB sticker with the tuner kit.

Anyone moved away from the internal oil supply on the V3 and ran your own lines through it to get more oil circulating? Contemplating this as my blower is going to need to be rebuilt as is.

Yea you run a V2/V7 of you want to do that

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