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OEM MAFs/Ecutek hybrid tune. My MAFs run out at 4800 RPM.
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OEM MAFs
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To the very small crowd that's on uprev, any issues tuning it? My tuner is at a standstill, vehicle keeps enriching the fuel to max and basically putting it in limp mode. Anyone has any suggestions that's would be awesome
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I'm not sure this will help but check your extension cables going to the MAFs. Those cables have given us problems.
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They appear to be just like new, the kit has less than 1000 miles. I did only use one extension cable after the air to air install as only one side was needed to reach, I don't think that would be an issue?
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Make sure all of the pins look to be at the same height at the very least. If one pin is shorter than the others it will cause problems. I chased a code 1239 for months and then I replaced the cables and the code went away and the car stopped going into limp mode. I'm not saying the cables are causing your problem, I'm just pointing out that the cables have been a pretty common problem. |
Bumper FUBAR
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Edit: I know this is more of a exterior/interior mods question, I'm asking here because it's specific to intercoolers and more specific to our application where literally half the intercooler is covered...
So, as some of you mat have seen, I decided to attempt to follow in the footsteps of ChaseZ and get some more airflow to all the heat exchangers. With that said, I may have totally failed and in doing so, completely mutilated my front bumper. I'm going to play with it some more, but I don't have a lot of faith in my ability to salvage it... What bumper would give the most airflow through the IC? Looking at some of our choices, I believe that the Stillen one is a good bet, but I wanted to pose the question to the collective experts. Thank you! The picture of the cut bumper on the car is before I made the sides even with each other (the left cut is closer to the IC than it should be by 1/2 inch) The picture off the car is how my bumper is sitting right now. |
Why doesn't it work anymore? Does it not mount on car anymore? Is it no longer structurally sound?
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Finish cutting the upper black portion off and I think it will look better? Doesn't look too bad.... I kept my whole upper. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...005a0fce92.jpg
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That was my thought too. At least cut it back inline with the fangs.
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Cut it all out. Cut out the fangs. Make an FRP cover plate for the bottom and veneer it with CF, or paint it to match (or accent, or whatever). 1 day project.
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As it stands now, temporarily, maybe.
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I'd rock it.
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Yeah it actually looks decent, I'm going to monitor my iats, I might do something similar :)
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Keep in mind that you need 3X the exit area as intake area for cooling. Air expands as it heats up and the hot air will need someplace to go. That is why the vented hoods work well.
This will help but at some point you will reach max outflow and then making more inlet won't help. Otherwise, nice! |
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...55a3e87225.png done tuning on uprev, with added air to air only, same dyno, months apart, 450hp 355 tq. Ty topz for more power! Ecutek should be here next week, then I start data logging with seb and back on the dyno to see what those numbers will be!
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My blow off valve is open almost all the time, unless I really am into the throttle. Lite cruising it's fluttering, once it hits 3500+ it's really dumping out when I'm in the throttle and climbing in rpm, like anything less than 80% throttle input it is wide open, any thoughts? Test pipes and 9 lb pulley so I'm not running as much boost as most, should my spring be stronger than the 1.5? Seems to run fine other than jerking on the highway because the valve keeps fluttering
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well mr king of bikes, I have a tial QRJ on mine and it is quiet as soon as you press the gas pedal from idle (while in gear). Let off the throttle and it dumps immediately very loudly and gets quieter as the RPM lowers as you would expect. I get very light fluttering while cruising around 2k to 3k rpm, not accelerating or decelerating.... doesn't effect driveability, just something you can barely hear with the windows down. I can't remember the spring on mine, I just bought what TopGunZ told me to get. I am no expert but if your boost is exhausting while in throttle I would think your spring is too strong and is requiring more boost pressure at lower RPM to shut. Or something is installed wrong. Maybe let the guys know what BPV / BOV your using and someone could shed some light on it.
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Mine is stock pulley.... so only 8 lbs of boost too
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Hello all. Not sure if this thread is still open, but I just received my TopgunZ kit and was wondering if anyone had any install vids or pics. I've only seen one video on YouTube and that was just a startup with the kit. Thanks
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https://goo.gl/photos/6wexurgWYzweWzYw7 There are also a few "Install" threads in the "Forced Induction" category that you can peruse for more build advice/photos. |
Turtle64b thanks.
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Going to upgrade impeller... anyone have any recommendations on where I should purchase it? Or if I should send it in?
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https://928motorsports.com/services/vortech_rebuild.php https://928motorsports.com/parts/billet_impeller.php |
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After driving it for a day it started working fine, I think maybe because it was used kit it was gummed up or sticking, but it's the qrj with the 1.5 spring from topz, I just bought it used from chasez Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
If it's just the impeller you want they can be installed yourself real easy. Just did one on a mustang here in the shop, surprisingly it ran pretty decent before he took it to be tuned.
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What's the status on this kit? I am hoping it comes out after the z35 reveal in October (hopefully) so I can decide if I want to boost the z34 or wait for the z35.
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Pessimist! lol. I am just hoping because if there's no z35 concept this year, then I am pretty much writing it off as not happening. Then the debate becomes do I want some comfort in exchange for weight and get a pre-owned q60 coupe in a year or 2 or stick to the z34 and boost it.
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That all depends on how much power you want. If 400whp is enough, buy the Q cuz factory turbo > than aftermarket N/A turbo build. If you want more power then keep it and buy a FI TT kit. |
I think i would be happy with the power of the Z with this kit. I am debating on waiting because of the noise NVH I have right now. I figure with a factory boosted Z, I would retain mostly OEM NVH and comfort because I would be able to much more easily tune good power out of it without too many mods. I hear mid 400s whp/trq with intake, secondary DPs, exhaust and tune. I don't really need luxury which is why I am hoping for a new Z instead of the Q. I just want normal car comfort with good performance, basically my Z's fun to drive-ness with more power and less roughness.
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Thanks for the input fellas.
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I see Evan posted a dyno run today, on YouTube , almost 700 whp, insane!
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...on a Mustang, no less...
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Yep finally got on the dyno but was only able to dyno my daily map on 19 deg of timing. Made 696/500. Im between 16-17 psi. We are taking Aarons A-A kit to all new heights. Will be going back within the next few weeks to get numbers on my "kill" tune. Seb has it set at 22 deg of timing. Oh yeah and all this was done on a Mustang dyno for what it is worth.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--DQNYil9g4 |
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