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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zpG...32MoHm&index=1 Updated the vids with three short ones, (oil sump playlist). It shows some of the work to finish up the electrical wiring. Cool stuff about the charge resistor, you
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#1 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 254
Drives: g37
Rep Power: 13 ![]() |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zpG...32MoHm&index=1
Updated the vids with three short ones, (oil sump playlist). It shows some of the work to finish up the electrical wiring. Cool stuff about the charge resistor, you can even put up to a 2 gauge . Still need to figuer out how I want to use the power side with the fusible link. Any ideas would be appreciated. Last edited by hc_416; 02-09-2020 at 07:33 PM. Reason: bad spelling |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 254
Drives: g37
Rep Power: 13 ![]() |
Quick update, I sent out the turbo today and got some good news. If its only the seals that are bad it should be under 400 bucks to fix; lets hope so. I also just finished setting up a quick jack so I can have some more room to work. You can see a quick vid if you follow the link above. They seem to be a lot easier to work with than jack stands and a jack. Next step will be to get four of my buds to come push the car in so I can prep her. I still need to clean out most of the pipes and replace two 02's and a innovate afr gauge sensor. Still progress is progress.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 254
Drives: g37
Rep Power: 13 ![]() |
I was finally able to get the car back in the garage and up on my new quick-jacks! I am now waiting for the turbo to be returned. While waiting the plan is to clean out the rest of the pipes. Then try to find a way to put in a small cat so I can easily pass emission. There is a video of the room underneath the car if anyone was thinking about purchasing a jack. Please just follow the link above.
Last edited by hc_416; 02-22-2020 at 06:54 PM. Reason: spelling |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 254
Drives: g37
Rep Power: 13 ![]() |
Does anyone have part numbers for the upstream and downstream o2's? I just want to make sure I get the right ones. I think I am going to get oem; I have ngt right now. Also if boosted performance could chime in and just verify which o2's I need up steam or downstream? I'm not to do confident they put in the right ones.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 254
Drives: g37
Rep Power: 13 ![]() |
Quick update. I was going to clean the exhaust out but i found that they muffed up the wiring for the gauges. I ended up fixing the wiring and plumbing but need to finish up the oil and temp one. It is giving me a issue. If you watch my vid you can see a really good spot to drill into the car to run some wires for your audio equipment or for fuel pump wiring.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpEyKgke2rM&t=1s |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Washington State
Posts: 69
Drives: 15 370z 6MT Nismo
Rep Power: 10 ![]() |
Late post but you need the upstream O2 sensors for sure. Downstream sensors only monitor cat health and have been known to potentially cause idling issues in BP kits. You can easily remove these (Sasha includes plugs) but consult your tuner first as he has to disable the CEL and some tuners like the downstream O2 sensors for doing their stuff. Go OEM for sure.
__________________
'15 370z Nismo Tech 6MT Magnetic Black, V2 BP Kit 6467 Unexploded Turbo | '06 350z Touring 6MT Carbon Silver |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 254
Drives: g37
Rep Power: 13 ![]() |
Quote:
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#9 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 254
Drives: g37
Rep Power: 13 ![]() |
Quick up date, the car is alive! i have to finish up loose ends and then start to test the work I did. I need to make sure oil gets to the scavenge pump, test the greddy boost controller,(which seems to be working), and then burn off any of the oil I missed in the pipes. After that a really good detail and deep cleaning. DMV is closed here in CT so no idea when it will be on the road... I hope to have her on the road for my b day barring any unforeseen items pop up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23ie1Bkv-yc&t=4s Here a link to the vid were i got yelled at by my better half after I started the car and made the house smell like oil and exhaust lol. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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The370Z.com Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 1,629
Drives: Z's
Rep Power: 3384 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
All you need to do is make sure the pump is running (in the right direction). If it is you are good to go. You can always double check at the reservoir by loosening the AN fitting, you will hear vacuum being pulled by the pump.
__________________
750WHP starting @ $7,500 to the door FOR DETAILS VISIT: http://www.the370z.com/members/boosted-performance.html FB: https://www.facebook.com/Boosted-Per...6303179791462/ IG @boostedperformanceyeg |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 254
Drives: g37
Rep Power: 13 ![]() |
I got her up and running then found out the hose from the exit of the oil pump to the oil pan is leaking/dry rotted out. Can you tell me the lane and size fittings? I need to buy a new one, thank you.
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#12 (permalink) |
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The370Z.com Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 1,629
Drives: Z's
Rep Power: 3384 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
It is -6AN female on both ends.
__________________
750WHP starting @ $7,500 to the door FOR DETAILS VISIT: http://www.the370z.com/members/boosted-performance.html FB: https://www.facebook.com/Boosted-Per...6303179791462/ IG @boostedperformanceyeg |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 254
Drives: g37
Rep Power: 13 ![]() |
Quick update, I was able to hit boost; she hit 9lbs! I didn't go much past that, just wanted to check my work out. After the test drive a oil hose needed to be tightened. Today is brake bleeding and getting some gas. After working on the brakes I noticed the coil-overs need to be rebuilt at some point; they also need to be readjusted. One side used the tube extension and the other side used spring compression to adjust the height ;(. I bought new/used 285 DWS conti's with 15 mm spacers as well. This should give me a extra 2mm out back so there is a little more breathing room from fender to wheel. Hopefully DMV will open in a week or two so the wife and I can take a cruise once the quarantine is over.
Last edited by hc_416; 03-30-2020 at 08:35 AM. Reason: spelling |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 254
Drives: g37
Rep Power: 13 ![]() |
well..... another problem came up.
My first two rides went great; on my third ride I went to give it full throttle and it fell flat on its face. No boost, and a lot of lag. I didn't want to push it after that so I took it home. It now just doesn't build boost anymore if at all and when I give it gas it falls on its face. It will build boost at random times or when I go first to second 3/4 throttle it seems to work, then when I hit third it just dies. Really looking for ideas what it could be or what I should look at. Here is a list of things that have been tired, 1. Put a new hose and stiffer spring on the BOV 2. Check to see if the turbo is spinning free with my hand(it is). 3. I checked both waste gates to see if they were stuck open and they would work when given pressure. I just pushed on the valve with my finger. 4. I reran the vacuum hose with new z1 line. 5. I have looked for leaks on the cold side by looking at the t-bolt clamps and trying to move them with force. I also checked to make sure they were tight. I think I will take the cold side apart and check to make sure i put it on tight but any suggestions would be appreciated. Last edited by hc_416; 04-10-2020 at 08:56 PM. Reason: spelling |
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