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2013 Z. Painting the whole car with rattle cans :)

Decided to paint my whole car with rattle can paint! The car was originally metallic silver (I wanted white but hate nissans pearl white! Next to a real white, the

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Old 07-14-2014, 12:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2013 Z. Painting the whole car with rattle cans :)

Decided to paint my whole car with rattle can paint! The car was originally metallic silver (I wanted white but hate nissans pearl white! Next to a real white, the pearl looks yellow) but after an accident where I had to replace the passenger quarter panel, it came primered black. so instead of having the quarter panel painted to match the car I decided to just plasti dip matte white.

The plasty dip looks good, has held up okay and is easy to fix with dip fix but when you touch up a spot with spray cans the over spray makes fuzz on the car. if you mask off sections to protect from over spray you get a clear raised line. With plasti dip you need to paint a whole panel after a fix and white needs like 100 coats to cover! I'm just tired of fixing spots and the last reason to remove the plasti dip is I just miss smooth gloss of normal paint! If you want to plasti dip a car pick a dark color!!!!!!!!!!!


Here's plasti dip matte white



Ok to start...red scotch bright pad to scuff the clear coat off of your less than 1 year old car






Next, primer after you clean the surface with acetone. I did about 3-4 coats. First ones lighter, then to heavier ones. After several hours I wet sanded with 600 grit paper till it was baby smooth.

After 48hrs to harden I then cleaned the primered surface with isopropyl alcohol. Then I sprayed about 3-4 coats, again light to heavy with original Chrysler white from duplicolor. It's the 4th white I tried and whitest white I could find.

After another 48hrs I wet sanded with 2000 grit paper. You can see all the orange peel which is why I had to. You want to sand out all the shine till its 100% dull.




Still shiny



Just right




Then I used Maguires rubbing compound with a rough wash cloth. You can already see a night and day difference!








Then I used Maguires polishing compound and a micro fiber rag. Looking very clear!!






Last I still need to wax it with Maguires carnauba wax after its hardened a few weeks. Not bad if I say so myself. The rest of the panels will be done one at a time.


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Old 07-14-2014, 01:10 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 07-14-2014, 01:15 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I hate everything you're doing but it's your car. I wish you the best of luck.
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Old 07-14-2014, 01:19 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Yeah building a car for the track sucks. I should just do what others do and stay home with a garage queen.
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Old 07-14-2014, 01:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Yeah building a car for the track sucks. I should just do what others do and stay home with a garage queen.
how does plasti dipping your car and adding weight make it a track car?
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Old 07-14-2014, 01:45 AM   #6 (permalink)
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how does plasti dipping your car and adding weight make it a track car?
As stated it was a fix to the quarter primer issue and plasti dip is great for rock chips as track cars get beat up. It's basically a vinyl wrap. If I did black or something else I would of kept it as it takes only a minute to rub dip fix on any issue areas and then just hit the spot with a spray can. But whites a pain now that I've learned. I'll be clear braing after the paint cures now since I want to stay white.

And he's refusing all ALL I've done. Apparently you can't do gutting, protecting, aero, suspension, wheels or tires on a track car. Guess I missed that memo.
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:56 AM   #7 (permalink)
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As stated it was a fix to the quarter primer issue and plasti dip is great for rock chips as track cars get beat up. It's basically a vinyl wrap. If I did black or something else I would of kept it as it takes only a minute to rub dip fix on any issue areas and then just hit the spot with a spray can. But whites a pain now that I've learned. I'll be clear braing after the paint cures now since I want to stay white.

And he's refusing all ALL I've done. Apparently you can't do gutting, protecting, aero, suspension, wheels or tires on a track car. Guess I missed that memo.
I meant everything in the OP, your track stuff's legit.
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Old 07-14-2014, 01:29 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Actually DP3 does tracks his z and is building his car for track duties.

That pearl white though man...makes me cry a little inside, and it's not even mine
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Old 07-14-2014, 01:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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That pearl white though man...makes me cry a little inside, and it's not even mine
Not sure what you're talking about.
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Old 07-14-2014, 02:58 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Not sure what you're talking about.
Oh nvm, pictures in your post made me think your original paint was pw and you rattle canned over it. I hope you know what you're doing and crossing my fingers for you that this turns out good. I cant imagine the cost of a whole new paint job to fix it.
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Old 07-14-2014, 03:24 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Oh nvm, pictures in your post made me think your original paint was pw and you rattle canned over it. I hope you know what you're doing and crossing my fingers for you that this turns out good. I cant imagine the cost of a whole new paint job to fix it.
O gotcha. No the first pic was the matte white PD, OEM was metallic silver.

Well I've read all I can read. Hence the grits of sand paper, dry times, finishing technics etc. Its 100% the same as any painter would do minus the different materials used. Although sometimes your air gun can spray without orange peel in a perfect temp, humidity, controlled paint booth etc, but still 1 in 3 will need wet sanded at 2000 to get rid of it. And even though a painter may not have to wet sand the clear because he got no peel, it still depends on what the customer wants as a finish. You'll always get a show car finish if you sand and buff and some people don't need a great finish. Most OEM paint jobs are orange peel to the moon to keep costs down. Hell most body shops have a hard time matching the OEM paint job because the paint job sucks to begin with. My ex's Toyota camery was a perfect example! Glass on the key'd drivers side and crap OEM peel on the passenger.

These cans also help with the jobs of today. 100% like professional paint supplies where they do have a hardener inside you prick and start the mix. The cans are also pressurized 4x the amount of normal cans for atomization. Rattle cans have come a long way!

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Old 07-14-2014, 07:01 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Everybody needs a hobby, I guess. Good luck with yours. In the end, the only person you have to keep happy with your car is yourself.
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Old 07-14-2014, 02:00 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Yikes. I probably wouldn't ever do this. I have a question though. Did you also plastidip small areas ( when you open the door or hatch) or are those areas still silver? Also how much did it run you cost wise?


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Old 07-14-2014, 02:11 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Yikes. I probably wouldn't ever do this. I have a question though. Did you also plastidip small areas ( when you open the door or hatch) or are those areas still silver? Also how much did it run you cost wise?


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I'm confused; seems as if everyone's caught up on the PD. I'll answer the questions but I'm here for the paint job I'm doing and not the PD.

The first time I dipped, no. Second time I dipped for touch ups, I took all the panels off and dipped them, so yes. I paid like $170 for the PD gun and like $50 a gallon for the PD. I bought 6 gallons, 1 grey to have the white stick to and 5 whites. Whites like thin water, I needed a lot to cover. Once the xylene (the thinner) evaporated you're left with the "rubber." No weight really gained Penguin.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:17 AM   #15 (permalink)
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