Diff cooler and inline filter

TerribleONE · 10-23-2013, 05:09 PM

Subd.. great info in this thread

Whtfairladyz · 10-24-2013, 12:26 AM

synolimit,
Two more points that need to be made.

1) The Tilton Pump you have highlighted in that Summit Racing shopping cart is for "intermittent usage only". The pump is not designed to be used continuously.

Check out the Tilton 40-527 model. It is the SAME thing, but is slightly beefier and is rated to be run continuously. I would recommend that model since people often forget to shut things off and may accidentally run the pump longer than Tilton intends.

2) In your shopping cart, you have about 4~5 different fittings from different manufacturers. I saw Summit, Fragola, Russell and others. Most Hydraulic Line builders will warn you against doing that. Mixing manufacturers can cause some serious issues between tolerences and quality. I highly recommend sticking to 1 manufacturer if doable. Otherwise, do no more than 2 in a single build. Choose a good, high quality fitting manufactuer that will offer most of the fittings you need. I generally choose to use Aeroquip myself when doing personal projects.

takjak2 · 10-24-2013, 03:26 PM

Subbed. I recently measured and documented the GTM kit on Mike's car in order to copy it on the cheap.

synolimit · 10-24-2013, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whtfairladyz

Yes, the 350Z diff covers are the same. I did not take a look at your fitting selection, but keep in mind. If someone is running a NISMO finned diff cover, they may need a different fitting to connect to the sump.

Also, diff cooler setups like this are easy for install, but can be a PAIN to purge and fill up later. You have to purge the system and then make sure you have the proper level in the diff. The only way you can do that is to run the pump with the line disconnected from the return and allow it to pour into a bucket while filling it up at the same time.

If you drilled into the diff case and put a seperate return port, you could then use the factory fill port as it was intended with less mess. I recommend going this route.

A few comments since I have done a few of these:
- MAKE SURE you put an isolator between the pump and the chassis. The vibration from the pump will be annoying unless you are going hardcore race car.

- Buy a pair of high quality electrical connectors and make the pump removable. Otherwise you will be cutting the harness up later if you have to service the pump.

- While you are attempting to cool the diff. Go ahead and buy some DEI Titanium Exhaust wrap and wrap the exhaust portion near the diff itself. The radiant heat from the exhaust is a contributing factor here.

Pretty much what gtm said to do about the fluid. I'm going this route since I don't want to remove the diff cover to drill. Less work=less headache.

Thanks about the isolator. The pumps going into the cabin so not sure if it will matter since I'll be hearing it a few feet behind my head anyways.

I'm going to install just the sensor first to monitor diff temps. I have some wrap so maybe ill wrap later to see if there's a temp drop to confirm that. I have straight pipes though so no a big muffler retaining heat near the diff, but I get the pipes themselves carry heat. Things to experiment with.

synolimit · 10-24-2013, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whtfairladyz

synolimit,
Two more points that need to be made.

1) The Tilton Pump you have highlighted in that Summit Racing shopping cart is for "intermittent usage only". The pump is not designed to be used continuously.

Check out the Tilton 40-527 model. It is the SAME thing, but is slightly beefier and is rated to be run continuously. I would recommend that model since people often forget to shut things off and may accidentally run the pump longer than Tilton intends.

2) In your shopping cart, you have about 4~5 different fittings from different manufacturers. I saw Summit, Fragola, Russell and others. Most Hydraulic Line builders will warn you against doing that. Mixing manufacturers can cause some serious issues between tolerences and quality. I highly recommend sticking to 1 manufacturer if doable. Otherwise, do no more than 2 in a single build. Choose a good, high quality fitting manufactuer that will offer most of the fittings you need. I generally choose to use Aeroquip myself when doing personal projects.

I want to run it intermittently while watching the gauge. Being in the trunk I won't forget to shut it off haha. I saw the continuos one but its $25 more. However tilton says its 2 pounds lighter. Not sure how a beefier pump is lighter, but if it really is then $25 is worth it to go lighter and better pump.

As for the fittings, I guess that's a risk I take. Its bull **** whats these ******* things cost and I'm not paying more for a Russell when the earl is cheaper but then earl has another fitting that's more than the Russell. If they leak I'll see it, smell it, replace it after bitching to summit and getting something for free for my headache.

synolimit · 10-24-2013, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by takjak2

Subbed. I recently measured and documented the GTM kit on Mike's car in order to copy it on the cheap.

Good thinking. You'll save about $900! Do you know what filter they're using? The Russell I have says for fuel, but whats it matter when its a SS mesh. Its a 40 micron. Earl has one that says for oil but its 140 micron. That's way to big to stop this ultra ultra fine powder. I do plan on buying a 1x1" neodymium magnet and sticking it to the underside of the diff at the drain location since I'm losing the OEM magnet. This should help with the shavings. If I ever do diff bushings, then ill pop the cover and clean out what the outside magnet catches.

synolimit · 10-25-2013, 01:53 AM

Modified the list. I could use less hose, added the gauge and how it will hooked inline and found cheaper parts for some but added better parts for others like the oil filter. Still decided on the pump.

Most everything is from summit because I had a $20 off and their fittings are cheap. The 3 LFA's are from Home Depot because brass NPT is really cheap. And the thread sealer was from autozone. Only thing now is some aluminium 0.05" plate and a diy write up in the diy section.

Rusty · 10-25-2013, 04:28 AM

A little heads up on your filter. Make sure that it can flow 75w-90 cold. Fuel will flow through a 40mic filter awhole easier then 75w-90 will. Do alittle reseach on it.

At work, we use 10W all the way to 320. Pressures from 10lbs to 5,000lbs. Every system has filters in it. Pick the wrong filter, you got problems.

synolimit · 10-25-2013, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

A little heads up on your filter. Make sure that it can flow 75w-90 cold. Fuel will flow through a 40mic filter awhole easier then 75w-90 will. Do alittle reseach on it.

At work, we use 10W all the way to 320. Pressures from 10lbs to 5,000lbs. Every system has filters in it. Pick the wrong filter, you got problems.

Well that's why I changed the filter. It's 140 micron made for diff, engine etc. unlike the 40 micron fuel I had. still not happy about the 140 but installing a neodymium magnet on the bottom of the diff should help combat the shavings to protect the pump.

synolimit · 11-03-2013, 10:25 PM

Just took my longest trip since the diff cooler gauge install. Drove about 45min (80mph) 35 highway and 10-15 min side streets. It was a cold 50 degrees out and the whole time on the highway the diff never stopped rising in temp. It got to 194* before I pulled off. I'm going to have to take a longer trip to see if it goes higher. Interesting to see at such a low temp outside the diff gets so hot. I can't imagine a hot summer day on a race track. No wonder people don't like the OEM vlsd! If you could keep the diff temp at a constant lower temp I bet it performs well-er haha.

Wonka2581 · 11-03-2013, 11:09 PM

Huh no shi* Good job keep us posted

synolimit · 11-04-2013, 07:01 PM

No prob. Now I just need to finish it. It will be cool to video say 190* temp, turn the pump on, and watch the temps plummet as the fluid travels through the cooler.

synolimit · 11-04-2013, 09:21 PM

So if anyone was wondering what I'm gonna do about the magnetic drain plug removal, here it is.

This a neodymium N40 magnet. Not even the strongest kind you can buy. But for $9.99 shipped on eBay for two of them in 1x1x0.25" it was worth it. This thing still has me laughing for how freaking strong they are!! One can hold just over 30 lbs and together over 73 pounds. Just playing with them is dangerous for it feels like I can lose a finger! I only installed one on the diff so far and this thing won't be coming off! Its freaking stuck on there. I figure with so much pulling force it will magnetize the inside of the diff and it will catch anything on the inside right where it's placed. I put it on some 0.20" AR500 (AR15 proof haha) steel and as you can see anything on the other side is stuck. I might be placing both on there for more power but we'll see. When I hook up the pump I'll stick my finger in the drain hole and feel around for shavings and decide then.

synolimit · 11-17-2013, 03:30 AM

Just took my first long drive, about 80 miles or so. At 54 degrees out and 75 mph I got the diff temp up to 206 degrees. That seems where it finally tops out under normal driving. Again I can only imagine summer heat and racing and what's happening to diff components with no coolers.

synolimit · 12-28-2013, 03:11 AM

All done. Will post pics tomorrow after my cooler scoop is done getting painted.

So it was 34* out tonight. Not as warm as 54* like the post above, but just driving again on the highway at 75 I was able to get the diff fluid up to 184*. I then hit the diff pump for the first time. Within 30 seconds it dropped to 160*. But it took another 9 minutes and 30 seconds to finish and reach its final temp of 144*. I was hoping for a cooler temp but I guess ill take it.

The reason why I was hoping for more was I know people have said their diff temp can reach 300* on the track. With only a 40* drop from this test means on the track the diff fluid might still reach 260*. I was hoping to go no more than 240* so the diff fluid wouldn't start to sheer off and hopefully the OEM VLSD could still do its job by keeping its temp within a good operating temp. I guess only time will tell now what happens. 4 months of winter to go!

10-23-2013, 05:09 PM	#16 (permalink)
TerribleONE A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Socal Posts: 10,203 Drives: WOT Rep Power: 5850	Subd.. great info in this thread __________________ 638WHP 541WTQ @ 13.5PSI Build thread

10-24-2013, 12:26 AM	#17 (permalink)
Whtfairladyz Base Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Winchester, TN Posts: 77 Drives: '92 Nissan 300zx Rep Power: 265	synolimit, Two more points that need to be made. 1) The Tilton Pump you have highlighted in that Summit Racing shopping cart is for "intermittent usage only". The pump is not designed to be used continuously. Check out the Tilton 40-527 model. It is the SAME thing, but is slightly beefier and is rated to be run continuously. I would recommend that model since people often forget to shut things off and may accidentally run the pump longer than Tilton intends. 2) In your shopping cart, you have about 4~5 different fittings from different manufacturers. I saw Summit, Fragola, Russell and others. Most Hydraulic Line builders will warn you against doing that. Mixing manufacturers can cause some serious issues between tolerences and quality. I highly recommend sticking to 1 manufacturer if doable. Otherwise, do no more than 2 in a single build. Choose a good, high quality fitting manufactuer that will offer most of the fittings you need. I generally choose to use Aeroquip myself when doing personal projects. DEpointfive0 likes this. __________________ Whtfairladyz formerly Dustin@Z1 Last edited by Whtfairladyz; 10-24-2013 at 03:38 AM.

10-24-2013, 03:26 PM	#18 (permalink)
takjak2 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Sterling, VA Posts: 1,922 Drives: Legit Racecar 370Z Rep Power: 142	Subbed. I recently measured and documented the GTM kit on Mike's car in order to copy it on the cheap. __________________ Mods \| Stuff \| Things \| Seat Time \| Nismo facebook.com/TeamSparrowSpeed

10-25-2013, 04:28 AM	#23 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 34,854 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684436	A little heads up on your filter. Make sure that it can flow 75w-90 cold. Fuel will flow through a 40mic filter awhole easier then 75w-90 will. Do alittle reseach on it. At work, we use 10W all the way to 320. Pressures from 10lbs to 5,000lbs. Every system has filters in it. Pick the wrong filter, you got problems. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

11-03-2013, 10:25 PM	#25 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3388	Just took my longest trip since the diff cooler gauge install. Drove about 45min (80mph) 35 highway and 10-15 min side streets. It was a cold 50 degrees out and the whole time on the highway the diff never stopped rising in temp. It got to 194* before I pulled off. I'm going to have to take a longer trip to see if it goes higher. Interesting to see at such a low temp outside the diff gets so hot. I can't imagine a hot summer day on a race track. No wonder people don't like the OEM vlsd! If you could keep the diff temp at a constant lower temp I bet it performs well-er haha. __________________ 13 370z-

11-03-2013, 11:09 PM	#26 (permalink)
Wonka2581 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Posts: 3,083 Drives: MY WIFE CRAZY.... Rep Power: 2611	Huh no shi* Good job keep us posted __________________ "I have nothing to offer but blood, toil, tears and sweat""Winston Churchill"

11-04-2013, 07:01 PM	#27 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3388	No prob. Now I just need to finish it. It will be cool to video say 190* temp, turn the pump on, and watch the temps plummet as the fluid travels through the cooler. __________________ 13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 11-04-2013 at 07:12 PM.

11-04-2013, 09:21 PM	#28 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3388	So if anyone was wondering what I'm gonna do about the magnetic drain plug removal, here it is. This a neodymium N40 magnet. Not even the strongest kind you can buy. But for $9.99 shipped on eBay for two of them in 1x1x0.25" it was worth it. This thing still has me laughing for how freaking strong they are!! One can hold just over 30 lbs and together over 73 pounds. Just playing with them is dangerous for it feels like I can lose a finger! I only installed one on the diff so far and this thing won't be coming off! Its freaking stuck on there. I figure with so much pulling force it will magnetize the inside of the diff and it will catch anything on the inside right where it's placed. I put it on some 0.20" AR500 (AR15 proof haha) steel and as you can see anything on the other side is stuck. I might be placing both on there for more power but we'll see. When I hook up the pump I'll stick my finger in the drain hole and feel around for shavings and decide then. DEpointfive0 likes this. __________________ 13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 11-04-2013 at 09:35 PM.

11-17-2013, 03:30 AM	#29 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3388	Just took my first long drive, about 80 miles or so. At 54 degrees out and 75 mph I got the diff temp up to 206 degrees. That seems where it finally tops out under normal driving. Again I can only imagine summer heat and racing and what's happening to diff components with no coolers. __________________ 13 370z-

12-28-2013, 03:11 AM	#30 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3388	All done. Will post pics tomorrow after my cooler scoop is done getting painted. So it was 34* out tonight. Not as warm as 54* like the post above, but just driving again on the highway at 75 I was able to get the diff fluid up to 184. I then hit the diff pump for the first time. Within 30 seconds it dropped to 160. But it took another 9 minutes and 30 seconds to finish and reach its final temp of 144. I was hoping for a cooler temp but I guess ill take it. The reason why I was hoping for more was I know people have said their diff temp can reach 300 on the track. With only a 40* drop from this test means on the track the diff fluid might still reach 260. I was hoping to go no more than 240 so the diff fluid wouldn't start to sheer off and hopefully the OEM VLSD could still do its job by keeping its temp within a good operating temp. I guess only time will tell now what happens. 4 months of winter to go! __________________ 13 370z-

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