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I've done several installs for local forum members plus twice on my own car. Be thankful if you're working with the Rev 3.X because earlier versions were much more difficult.
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#1 (permalink) |
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I've done several installs for local forum members plus twice on my own car. Be thankful if you're working with the Rev 3.X because earlier versions were much more difficult.
I've spent as long as 1.5 installing and adjusting before. But the later models I've been able to install with minimal adjustment needed in as short as 20 min (add 10 min for OEM pedal removal). I'm 6'1" 240 and don't even bother to remove the seat. Being left handed shouldn't hinder you too much either - I find myself using both hands in awkward positions. The first key is to have the right tools. The first install I did was rev 2.1 in my own Z. It took forever and I had to adjust several times and even bleed the thing to get it adjusted properly. Later installs I had tools that were better for the job (smaller mostly), which made for much quicker work especially for the bolts in the firewall. The second key that worked well for me is to find something to put outside the car level with the door sill that you can lay on - I use an old wooden file cabinet turned on its side with pillows and blankets to protect the car and cushion my side and back.
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#2 (permalink) |
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To add to this, I used a strap mounted mini light on my head. Worked great. Be sure to wear long sleeves unless you want rug burns on your elbows
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#3 (permalink) |
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All great tips guys! I appreciate the quick responses!
For lighting I'm planning on purchasing one of those LED vertical lantern type lights that have a hook on top. I have read over the instructions many times and I understand where the parts are and how to remove them, was just having trouble with maneuvering. What I was thinking of doing is having my girlfriend climb in there since she's much smaller and right handed, and I could point to whatever part needs to be removed. Did anyone take out the plastic piece directly underneath the steering wheel? I figure you'd get a much better viewing window of everything. |
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Really? Your girl friend?
C'mon man
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#5 (permalink) |
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Didn't realize that was some forsaken thing to do??
She's much smaller and right handed and therefore will have much more precision. Its not like she'd be doing the entire install. It would be the small parts like removing a clip. |
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Not only do I support this idea, I may steal it. My girl is tiny too and wouldn't break a sweat doing something like this. I'll even pull the seat for her.
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#7 (permalink) |
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I just installed mine yesterday.
Thoughts: 1. Installation time took me way more than an hour (about 2.5 hours to install and then 30 minutes to drive around and then do some light tuning). This is 100% due to working in such a confined space and being incredibly uncomfortable the whole time; recommend being skinny or losing weight before starting. 2. The instructions are really good with the exception of the upgraded clevis instructions which should be part of the main install doc. Because of this, I screwed up and didn't loosen the nut on the factory clevis before removing the stock assembly and then had to try to immobilize the OEM clevis with a pair of pliers ... not easy to do under the dash. 3. The heavy duty clevis (which somehow I got for free; thanks RJM!) is totally worth the extra money; trying to put the OEM pin back through the OEM clevis would have been a bitch. 4. The initial settings on the clutch pedal are pretty good and I didn't have to do much tuning (and did not modify the AFP setting). 5. The pedal feels like a normal clutch pedal now, which is awesome. 6. While the 75% default AFP setting is head and shoulders better than stock and has a wider engagement window, I think I do need to tune it a little bit more to try to bring the friction point down closer to the floor and increase the engagement window slightly (clutch is engaging about halfway up from the floor and I'd like it to be a tiny bit lower). 7. I was incredibly sore after finishing this install. 8. I wish I had done this a year ago when I bought the car instead of spending a year trying to get used to the stock pedal. Last edited by zfever; 01-14-2017 at 08:17 PM. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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i am curious if it would create more notchiness in between gears after lowering the engagement point as you described.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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The only thing I've found that alleviates the notchiness is to double-clutch. This leads me to believe that it's a (design) problem with the synchros vs. a problem with the clutch not being fully disengaged. So I imagine it won't make any difference if the friction point moves down a little bit (assuming the pedal is depressed past that point). Last edited by zfever; 01-15-2017 at 03:55 PM. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Hello
Quick question to check.... Is the pedal good for both left and right hand drive? Cheers
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#11 (permalink) |
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Unfortunately they are for left hand drive only as the RHD 370z uses a completely different pedal unit with different mounting compared to the left hand cars.
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#12 (permalink) |
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So I just finished the install. Everything seems to be correct except for the fact that I feel some vibration in the clutch pedal after fully released and in gear. Is it not fully disengaging? I'm hesitant to really drive it in case the clutch isn't fully disengaged I don't want to damage anything.
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#13 (permalink) |
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I read another persons review for the rjm pedal on the g37 forums and he stated that there is more vibration in the pedal as well. Supposedly the OEM pedal masks the vibrations.
Is this normal? I don't mind the vibration I just want to be certain I'm not damaging any of the components. |
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I'll reply here so everyone can get the answer. No, it's not possible for your clutch to be stuck partially engaged with the RJM pedal. That is only an issue with the oem pedal doing that. There will be more clutch feedback thru the pedal now as the RJM pedal transmits more feel of what the clutch is doing, not a numb and disconnected feeling like stock. These vibrations were always there, just being masked by the stiff oem assist spring that was dampening them. When you start driving it you'll immediately notice more feedback from the pedal and be able to feel where the clutch is engaging thru the pedal rather then just feeling the delayed effects of engagement in the cars movement + rpm drop.
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Thanks for the quick response Ryan. I also just sent an email which you can ignore. So are you saying that vibration in the clutch pedal is normal? It gets stronger as the RPMs get higher. |
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