08-20-2012, 07:37 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Base Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Philly
Posts: 116
Drives: 09' Touring 6spd
Rep Power: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan @ RJM
Djrelic, Yes it sounds like the upper switch needs to be adjusted down to take up the slack at the top of pedal stroke.
Unclip the return spring so that the pedal is resting right at the top of the master cylinder stroke. Adjust the switch down until the button is just depressed. Tigten the switch nuts and snap the reutn spring back into its keeper. The play at the top before starting to depress the MC rod should now be almost zero. (See Steps 41 & 43 of the Install Guide)
The 2 side bolts that lock the clutch rod angle adjustment also serve the secondary purpose of taking up the side to side play in the main shaft bearings. These need to be torqued a little at a time while checking the side-side play of the pedal arm. Tighten these down until the play is just gone but the pedal still moves freely (bearings not being pinched)
(See Step 39 and photos of the Install Guide.)
That should eliminate both issues you're seeing.
Cheers
Ryan@RJM Performance
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Nice, I had a feeling might be the issue. I had it kind of shallow mounted just to get it on the road. I'll adjust it soon and see if that fixes the issue. It should.
A question through about the revised fork... I had the bolt behind the fork all the way down on the clutch rod and I put the form on in the kit... It says in the kit instructions that in the revised fork that the threads do not show through it... I know when I installed mine the threads come up about more than half way in the clutch fork. Is that normal? Everything is fine... Just wondering if I was being too gentle with it.
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