Review: RJM AFP Clutch Pedal System

djrelic

I just installed mine this afternoon.

The install is pretty straight forward: just undo both safety switch harnesses, pop out the wire holder that holds the bottom one, use a 12m deep socket to take out the 3 bolts that hold the whole assembly comes out. Replace the clutch fork with the one in the kit. Bolt up the new assembly and slide the new pedal in that comes with the kit.

Only stuff I got hung up on during the install was getting the fork off the first time, wasnt thinking about it in terms that the bolt after the fork needs to spin to the right to get the fork to come off, mounting the bracket perfectly so all threads can come through.

I drove it around the first time how it came out of the box and it felt like I had maybe about 3 inches of pedal play, it was too close to the floor for me the way it was engaging.. I raised it up a bit and now it seems better.

I dont know maybe if I didnt tighten something down enough but the pedal at the very top is kind of sloppy with some play to it.. but once you depress it, it's smooth. Idk I gotta drive it around a bit more and see.

Ryan @ RJM

Djrelic, Yes it sounds like the upper switch needs to be adjusted down to take up the slack at the top of pedal stroke.
Unclip the return spring so that the pedal is resting right at the top of the master cylinder stroke. Adjust the switch down until the button is just depressed. Tigten the switch nuts and snap the reutn spring back into its keeper. The play at the top before starting to depress the MC rod should now be almost zero. (See Steps 41 & 43 of the Install Guide)

The 2 side bolts that lock the clutch rod angle adjustment also serve the secondary purpose of taking up the side to side play in the main shaft bearings. These need to be torqued a little at a time while checking the side-side play of the pedal arm. Tighten these down until the play is just gone but the pedal still moves freely (bearings not being pinched)
(See Step 39 and photos of the Install Guide.)

That should eliminate both issues you're seeing.
Cheers
Ryan@RJM Performance

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djrelic

Nice, I had a feeling might be the issue. I had it kind of shallow mounted just to get it on the road. I'll adjust it soon and see if that fixes the issue. It should.

A question through about the revised fork... I had the bolt behind the fork all the way down on the clutch rod and I put the form on in the kit... It says in the kit instructions that in the revised fork that the threads do not show through it... I know when I installed mine the threads come up about more than half way in the clutch fork. Is that normal? Everything is fine... Just wondering if I was being too gentle with it.

Ryan @ RJM

Yes, that sounds perfectly normal. The photo used in the install guide was of the original fork which had a much thinner threaded base then the new revised ones. So on the old ones the tip of the clutch rod would come right through and poke up. The Revised ones are more then twice as thick at the base of the fork so you will no longer see the tip of the clutch rod come through.

This was done to both lengthen the fork giving a better adjustment range for the friction point as well as having more active threads engaged to hold the fork.

__________________

Home of the A.F.P. Upgraded Clutch Pedal System. Smoother Launches, Smoother Shifts & Improved Clutch Control Like No Other Pedal Mod You've Experianced Before Guaranteed!
Visit www.RJMPerformance.com or Email Ryan@RJMPerformance.com Also Don't Forget to Like us on Facebook www.facebook.com/RJM-Performance