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Status update. All the fvcking air is out!!! Drove 30+miles. Pedal remained the same. My god does this thing shift fast. Here's what I did: -Drain the system to the
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A True Z Fanatic
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Status update. All the fvcking air is out!!! Drove 30+miles. Pedal remained the same. My god does this thing shift fast.
Here's what I did: -Drain the system to the last drop. -Gravity bleed until you go through about 5-7 reservoirs (don't let it go below "min"!) -Close the bleed valve from the CSC, pump pedal about 30times. Hold pedal in. Open valve. Repeat this about 10 times. -Adjut pin on the pedal to where it is about flush with the clevis or about 1 thread inside. -With pedal all the way out and no pressure whatsoever on it, crack the slave valve open and close it quickly. Do the same with the master. -Pump a couple of times. -Go drive and enjoy the clutch! Bad news... Issue number 2 remains. I am still having the problem getting into gear after putting the car in neutral and releasing the clutch. When I force 1st the car moves a couple of inches forward, like the clutch is not disengaging completely. Once I get a gear in and get the car moving there is no problem shifting.
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2011 Twin Turbo PW nismo #113 - My Journal - My TT Build Thread [ GTM GTX Stg2 TT || HKS EVC6 || Custom CarPC || F.I 3'' TDX CBE || SB 6puck clutch/ZSpeed CSC || BC BR Coilovers || SPC camber arms || Work VSS-X || Custom Headlights || PW:JDM CF Covers || Seibon CF Engine Cover ] Last edited by Ron; 02-16-2012 at 11:02 PM. |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Must also have resv cap off while doing this. If the air is trapped you will not get full slave travel even if the pedal feels good. Air compresses, fluid doesn't
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