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5th Gear grind after maintenance

Originally Posted by Rusty For some reason. They don't hold the adjustment, and can be a bitch to bleed. Think Jar went through a couple of them. The CMAK is

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Old 09-10-2019, 08:53 AM   #16 (permalink)
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For some reason. They don't hold the adjustment, and can be a bitch to bleed. Think Jar went through a couple of them. The CMAK is a better option. That's the one I would go with.
I won the CSM Elim kit at the 2017 Z Nationals, so I figured I would just stick with it, but I wasn't aware of any issues. Thanks for the info. I'll have ot look it to it a little more.
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Old 09-10-2019, 10:30 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I was an early adopter of the Z1 CSCEK. I went through 4 cylinders in about 50K miles. Had external plastic shell leak as well as internal seals leak. Z1 only replaced the first one at their expense. The last three I paid for out of pocket. I purchased the ZSpeed CMAK a few months back to replace it.
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Old 09-12-2019, 11:42 AM   #18 (permalink)
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This can be clutch related, Do you have issues getting into any other gears? 1st/Reverse?
Is you shiter hard to move into gear sitting still?

JWT disk is sorta heavy which adds centrifugal weight to the disk, which in turn leads to the syncros having a harder time slowing down to shift.
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Old 09-12-2019, 08:24 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed View Post
This can be clutch related, Do you have issues getting into any other gears? 1st/Reverse?
Is you shiter hard to move into gear sitting still?

JWT disk is sorta heavy which adds centrifugal weight to the disk, which in turn leads to the syncros having a harder time slowing down to shift.
Yea, actually I do have issues getting into reverse sometimes
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Old 09-13-2019, 07:51 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Yea, actually I do have issues getting into reverse sometimes
Do you have to force the shifter into 1st gear sitting still? Does it grind going to reverse?
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Old 09-13-2019, 08:17 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Do you have to force the shifter into 1st gear sitting still? Does it grind going to reverse?
Have had to force into reverse a couple of times. Never any grinding though.
Have had an issue going into 1st maybe once. Didn't try to force it in, just went into a couple of other gears first, and it went in just fine after that.
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Old 09-13-2019, 08:31 PM   #22 (permalink)
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If you have to force it... that's a bad sign. Check the guide plate. Super easy to do. And super easy for a shop to screw up. Best of luck
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Old 10-02-2019, 12:17 AM   #23 (permalink)
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They may have replaced gear box oil to a different viscosity.

Changing gear box oil is usually done when clutch is replaced.
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Old 10-02-2019, 10:51 AM   #24 (permalink)
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On the JWT clutch you need to ensure that the fingers of the pressure plate are not hitting the center of the clutch disk at full stroke (pedal on floor) I have seen quite few of the JWT have interference issues when new. If the pressure plate fingers hit the disk when you have the pedal to the floor it can cause shifting issues and cause gear grinds.

You can normally tell this is happening at idle as well, if you push the pedal all the way to floor you can normally hear it scrape a little and can also cause it to be hard to get into gear. if you let up a little it will go right into gear.
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:39 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed View Post
On the JWT clutch you need to ensure that the fingers of the pressure plate are not hitting the center of the clutch disk at full stroke (pedal on floor) I have seen quite few of the JWT have interference issues when new. If the pressure plate fingers hit the disk when you have the pedal to the floor it can cause shifting issues and cause gear grinds.

You can normally tell this is happening at idle as well, if you push the pedal all the way to floor you can normally hear it scrape a little and can also cause it to be hard to get into gear. if you let up a little it will go right into gear.
Thanks for the info, Joe. I'll try and check it out tomorrow and see what the issue is. I really appreciate your input.
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