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Help please, I blew my motor and need to plan the rebuild

The short story is I downshifted into 3rd at the track on my 80k stock motor and it blew up while spooling up through 6500 RPM or so. This spit

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Old 06-02-2017, 09:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Help please, I blew my motor and need to plan the rebuild

The short story is I downshifted into 3rd at the track on my 80k stock motor and it blew up while spooling up through 6500 RPM or so.

This spit out the bottom


Along with all my oil and my dream of a 2:07 lap

So I'm planning a rebuild. Possibly only the short block

What are the best parts for a weekend warrior track beast/daily driver.

I'm thinking;

Nismo billet oil pump gears?

forged crankshaft?

Overbore the pistons (but how big to still be safe)

Forged pistons? (But which ones)

Forged rods??

Which harmonic dampener/balancer?(to go with my JWT lightweight flywheel?

Stock cam setup and heads?

Larger throttle bodies perhaps?

Z1 400 hp kit (recycled)

What do you all think?

Please provide specific part numbers if able and any advice you might have to help me build a better than stock street motor tough enough for the track

As far as oiling, I have phunk's pan and will add an acusump and probably Nismo billet oil pump gears.

What about throttle bodies and anything else you can think of while I have the motor torn apart?

Thanks in advance for any input. I'm hop ng to get the old girl back up and running soon but hope to use this opportunity to be"better than new"
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Old 06-02-2017, 09:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I got nothing useful to add, but subb'd!
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Old 06-02-2017, 09:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Are you dead set on sticking with the VQ37?
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
Are you dead set on sticking with the VQ37?


Well an LS swap is pretty cliche but also pretty cool.

Bear in mind though this weekend track car is about to be retired to street use only because I'm mid build on a dedicated track beast.

I'll probably keep my costs down and reliability up by sticking VQ but making it the best possible built version I can reasonably accomplish

I'm considering the stage 2 Z1 Motorsports short block.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/engine...ge-p-7254.html
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Check out what IPP has as well. They've got some good options.
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Will do! Thanks
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Old 06-02-2017, 01:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Get those JWT exhaust cams while your at it
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Old 06-02-2017, 02:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Sub'd...exciting!
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Old 06-02-2017, 02:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Hi,
Just so you know in the 45 years that I've worked on cars which included many engine rebuilds, when parts disintegrate they don't just fall into the oil pan. Thousands of small metal pieces get sucked in through various intake ports and migrate to all the cylinders as the engine "spools" down and eventually siezes due to the massive parts destruction as shown in your photo.
I'm not trying to burst anyone's bubble but even a destroyed valve will spread and drastically lower any expected longevity of a rebuild if the engine is not completely dismantled, boiled in cleaner and inspected via virtual microscope.
My thoughts don't even account for the ever so close tolerance of your engine. Before you plan I would count on full disassembly and complete professional rebuild.
In the end it's up to you. Don't mean to bother you but just wanted to send you a bit of advice.
Good luck.
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Old 06-02-2017, 04:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Engine failure

So wait a minute, you blew your motor and your NA? Judging from your signature it says Z1 400hp kit. I've never seen a NA blow up especially like that. I'm not too experienced in engine building but that kind of destruction must of been from some sort of pre detonation? Can anyone else chime in.
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Old 06-03-2017, 07:36 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stansens View Post
Hi,
Just so you know in the 45 years that I've worked on cars which included many engine rebuilds, when parts disintegrate they don't just fall into the oil pan. Thousands of small metal pieces get sucked in through various intake ports and migrate to all the cylinders as the engine "spools" down and eventually siezes due to the massive parts destruction as shown in your photo.
I'm not trying to burst anyone's bubble but even a destroyed valve will spread and drastically lower any expected longevity of a rebuild if the engine is not completely dismantled, boiled in cleaner and inspected via virtual microscope.
My thoughts don't even account for the ever so close tolerance of your engine. Before you plan I would count on full disassembly and complete professional rebuild.
In the end it's up to you. Don't mean to bother you but just wanted to send you a bit of advice.
Good luck.
good input!!! thanks. long block it is.
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Old 06-03-2017, 11:55 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SurfDog View Post
The short story is I downshifted into 3rd at the track on my 80k stock motor and it blew up while spooling up through 6500 RPM or so.

This spit out the bottom


Along with all my oil and my dream of a 2:07 lap

So I'm planning a rebuild. Possibly only the short block

What are the best parts for a weekend warrior track beast/daily driver.

I'm thinking;

Nismo billet oil pump gears?

forged crankshaft?

Overbore the pistons (but how big to still be safe)

Forged pistons? (But which ones)

Forged rods??

Which harmonic dampener/balancer?(to go with my JWT lightweight flywheel?

Stock cam setup and heads?

Larger throttle bodies perhaps?

Z1 400 hp kit (recycled)

What do you all think?

Please provide specific part numbers if able and any advice you might have to help me build a better than stock street motor tough enough for the track

As far as oiling, I have phunk's pan and will add an acusump and probably Nismo billet oil pump gears.

What about throttle bodies and anything else you can think of while I have the motor torn apart?

Thanks in advance for any input. I'm hop ng to get the old girl back up and running soon but hope to use this opportunity to be"better than new"
Honestly I think you just had a case of bad luck. Doesn't seem common for these engines to grenade NA at 6500 that's still 1k off redline. Unless you miss shifted and overran the engine I think you just got bad luck.

If not boosted I don't think all the forged stuff is really going to due much for you and keep in mind typically forged pistons weigh more than cast and also need more clearance for heat expansion (I guess there are some forged out there that supposedly don't require this anymore).

Interested to see what you due best of luck.
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Old 06-03-2017, 06:30 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Well, based on input here, and advice from guys in my area I'm thinking built long block, billet oil gears and am researching a mild overbore to slightly up my displacement
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Old 06-03-2017, 06:56 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It is not uncommon to blow an NA engine if it's being tracked. The main cause is fuel starvation. If you're tracking your Z frequently you need to either buy a road race pump or keep your fuel above 3/4 tank. It's happened before. Check out ban25s thread.
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Old 06-03-2017, 08:12 PM   #15 (permalink)
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It is not uncommon to blow an NA engine if it's being tracked. The main cause is fuel starvation. If you're tracking your Z frequently you need to either buy a road race pump or keep your fuel above 3/4 tank. It's happened before. Check out ban25s thread.
No fuel starve here!

I have Phunk's road race pump. Racing goodness down to the last drop.

(also his road race oil pan.)
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