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Steering Lock: cut one wire. /switch optional

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks I disagree that the steering lock is a security measure in a modern car. The only way to steal a modern car is to either have

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Old 04-29-2012, 08:54 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks View Post
I disagree that the steering lock is a security measure in a modern car. The only way to steal a modern car is to either have the key, by-pass the key system by applying power to various bits between the BCM and ECM (tricky and time consuming), or load it onto a flat bed trailer. Gone are the days of ripping wires out under the dash and touching them together (hot wiring). The only useful purpose the lock serves is to hold the wheels steady when parked on a hill.
it can be a security feature if you park towards a wall, turn your steering wheel and shut the car down so that it would be very difficult to tow out of its spot. of course once can use a lift and wheel dolly..

but yah, most of the lock's feature is geared towards safety.
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:06 PM   #107 (permalink)
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ChrisSlicks wrote:
I disagree that the steering lock is a security measure in a modern car. The only way to steal a modern car is to either have the key, by-pass the key system by applying power to various bits between the BCM and ECM (tricky and time consuming), or load it onto a flat bed trailer. Gone are the days of ripping wires out under the dash and touching them together (hot wiring). The only useful purpose the lock serves is to hold the wheels steady when parked on a hill. __________________

I agree..and disagree. It's legislators and special interests groups and lobyists who bless us with this apparent rubbish when they have nothing better to do than protect us from ourselves...aided by Nissan and other makers....who have similar problems with similar locks...maybe not as bad,
but on some BMWs you need to renew the whole steeering column.

.....and now they want...strike that.."have managed" to make testing the device a part of a vehicle annual "safety check". (My "B" lock lasted 12,000 miles in "average" cycles almost equating, I guess, to a DD in 16 months.)

As an aside, there's a few articles out there as to how easy it is to steal electronic key information: the right receiver near the car when the key is used can pick up the data....and use it on "you" later.

The new parking brake gizmo (2012?) recognises the electronic lock as ... er.. rubbish, apparently....but it seems a wire cutter might "fix" a hand-brake too !

An open-topped shipping container on a truck with a crane and the car's gone in a minute. It happens.

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Old 05-02-2012, 12:01 PM   #108 (permalink)
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This is very cool. I hope someone can make a harness for us. Someone could also contact Wiring Specialties. They might be interested.
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Old 05-03-2012, 06:28 AM   #109 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dragonbreath View Post
This is very cool. I hope someone can make a harness for us. Someone could also contact Wiring Specialties. They might be interested.
I've already signed up to make the harness and just as an update:

Timing was actually good because I was placing a large order for other connectors from the same series so they will be on their way from Japan soon.

I have only order enough for a few of you to test (see earlier post) and give feedback. Based on what I've seen and the good work done by Fritz and others, for me it really isn't about proving it works but rather things like:
  • Length of cable
  • To include a switch or not
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:48 AM   #110 (permalink)
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1. I would include the switch.

2. The harness can be any length. I would say 6-8" would be plenty. The new harness is just an extension of the existing harness with a on/off switch installed.
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:31 AM   #111 (permalink)
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:00 AM   #112 (permalink)
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1. I would include the switch.

2. The harness can be any length. I would say 6-8" would be plenty. The new harness is just an extension of the existing harness with a on/off switch installed.
That is the current thinking, but people actually having samples will help refine the details, for example:
With the switch it was more a case of any particular switch and low long to make those wires. The test harness (for the 3 or 4 testers) will have the wires to easily add the switch without having to play with the car harness but the hope is they will be able to recommend a switch and location that works well etc.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:04 AM   #113 (permalink)
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bdl99- for me, i would go without the switch. it defeats the purpose. if i want the steering lock to function i would just let it work the way designed with no attachments.

if i want to disable the steering lock, then plug in your hotwire connector (or watever you will name it) and just forget that my car even had a steering lock.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:12 AM   #114 (permalink)
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bdl99- for me, i would go without the switch. it defeats the purpose. if i want the steering lock to function i would just let it work the way designed with no attachments.

if i want to disable the steering lock, then plug in your hotwire connector (or watever you will name it) and just forget that my car even had a steering lock.
I agree with what kenchan said because from what I can tell if the lock fails in the locked position is when you have the problem. Even if you have a switch if it fails the switch does not do anything for you. what most of us like is knowing we will not be stranded in the woods. I think a simple bypass connector that goes between the harness and the lock is the way to go.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:41 AM   #115 (permalink)
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bdl99- for me, i would go without the switch. it defeats the purpose. if i want the steering lock to function i would just let it work the way designed with no attachments.

if i want to disable the steering lock, then plug in your hotwire connector (or watever you will name it) and just forget that my car even had a steering lock.
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I agree with what kenchan said because from what I can tell if the lock fails in the locked position is when you have the problem. Even if you have a switch if it fails the switch does not do anything for you. what most of us like is knowing we will not be stranded in the woods. I think a simple bypass connector that goes between the harness and the lock is the way to go.
For me the bypass connector is what i'd be looking for. Having an 09 with the original rev b lock, i cross my fingers every time i go to start it.
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:06 PM   #116 (permalink)
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I see no reason for a switch either
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:35 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Word. Like stated before the switch kind of defeats the purpose of the harness. If I would have seen the earlier post I would have volunteered to be a tester! If you have any extras I will still purchase and be a guinea pig.
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:57 PM   #118 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kenchan View Post
bdl99- for me, i would go without the switch. it defeats the purpose. if i want the steering lock to function i would just let it work the way designed with no attachments.

if i want to disable the steering lock, then plug in your hotwire connector (or watever you will name it) and just forget that my car even had a steering lock.
Yes, good point. I forgot he was going to make the harness with the #1 wire out of the connector.

Forget the switch.
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Old 05-03-2012, 01:42 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Dragonbreath wrote
Word. Like stated before the switch kind of defeats the purpose of the harness. If I would have seen the earlier post I would have volunteered to be a tester! If you have any extras I will still purchase and be a guinea pig.

The absolute simplicity of a switch is hard to "get" ...granted. The harness makes it easier to fit ...see previous posts as the original length is "short" (though just OK for
acrobats to work on.
Switch position:
Turned off (disconnected) with lock disengaged = lock cycles reduced to zero...the main objective, as "cycling" increases microswitch and relays silica deposits.
Turned off (no misprint there) with lock engaged = no barstewart can start it unless he knows where the switch is ... If he switches on ... he has the standard Nissan intended problem of stealing the car.
Turned on (whether originally at "lock" or "unlocked") = lock operating normally (it sorts itself out, no prob).

The simplicity? Too good to be true .. but it isn't !

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Old 05-03-2012, 01:54 PM   #120 (permalink)
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bdl99, why not just leave the switch out, but the #1 wire left in the harness (cut or uncut, I don't care). Those of us who wish to use a switch can wire it ourselves, those of us who don't want to use a switch, no extra cost/complication this way. Right?
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