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Steering Lock: cut one wire. /switch optional

NEW SITUATION The locks are becoming a legal requirement in some county or country annual tests. They seem to have limited operational cycle durability due to "wrong oil" "too much

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Old 04-19-2012, 03:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Steering Lock: cut one wire. /switch optional

NEW SITUATION
The locks are becoming a legal requirement in some county or country annual tests. They seem to have limited operational cycle durability due to "wrong oil" "too much oil" and other Nissan excuses. Car immobilization due to lock failures causes new lock expenditure (USD 550 in USA and EUR 1500 in Europe).

MISSION: Prolong lock life. Delete small "key" warning.

EXECUTION: Eliminate (or greatly reduce later) lock operating cycles by rendering the lock non-operational. (adding a switch later switches it from inop to normal).

TOOLS: Small mirror: wire snips, small: flashlight: magnifiying glass.
A box: One foot or so square by about 3 feet long to lie on, one's head under steering lock.

HOW: Be sure the steering lock is NOT locked.
Lie on your back looking at the lock. Press its release and remove the connector. Look deep inside the connection for the numbers. Number one pin or hole should connect to a Brown wire which is next to a yellow and has a black below it.
Cut the brown (1/2"-5/8" from its connector 'cos you may want to solder it later).

ADMIN:Tape back the wire ends and re-fit the connector to the lock. Start engine. If not then the lock was engaged (locked) just re-connect the wire ends and unlock it.

RESULT: The power to the electric motor is cut. It cannot lock. It also cannot show a tell-tale in the instruments. Both internal microswitches are pressed correctly.

THE FUTURE: I fitted a switch to those two wire ends. Connected, and the lock is normal. Switched off and the lock stays in whatever position it was in when switched (which could be EXTRA anti-theft to beat electronics key- copier thievery.)

At your own risk ! ...and

Bless our legislators.


Fritz
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Old 04-19-2012, 03:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Thanks for this information Fritz. I will look at the service manual later tonight to see if I can find the pinout schematic to help with your explanation.
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Great work Fritz. The more, and easier, fixes for this issue the better.
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Old 04-19-2012, 06:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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interesting...
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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How did you come up with this and if it would work or not? Any pics? Good job though.
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Good job Fritz
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Very impressive!! This may be the greatest post yet. As someone else said...how did you come up with this? Repped!!!
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
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After digging through the service manual I found a few things. Is it ok to show screen shots from the service manual on the forum?
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaleForce View Post
After digging through the service manual I found a few things. Is it ok to show screen shots from the service manual on the forum?
Why wouldn't it be?

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Old 04-19-2012, 09:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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If this works, it's a sweet fix. Nice Fritz. I'll look for the schematics over the weekend if someone hasn't already posted them.
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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This is what I was able to find in the service manual. This might be helpful when combined with the information from Fritz, and the Steering lock DIY thread. Basically, this info may be relavant to some, and it might not...

This is the Steering lock connector, I have not found full schematics in the service manual as of yet. All that is needed for this is to stick your head under the dash and record the wires and locations,



Here is the Steering Lock in relation to the BCM and IPDM E/R



Here is a break down of the wiring, what conditions to look for and when,
This is the conditions for wires 97(L) and 98(P) these wires also goto the IPDM E/R as wire 32(L) and 33(P). The service manual lists wire 97 as S/L Condition 1 and wire 98 as S/L Condition 2. It looks as though wire 32/97 is S/L Lock and wire 33/98 is S/L Unlock






Here is the condition for wire 106








Here is the condition for wire 111




conditions at the BCM






wire location at BCM





Diagnostics,





If there is something specific someone needs or wants to see, let me know and I'll do my best to find it.

Also, use your brain before you start digging around the wiring in your car, I'm not responsible for any problems you might cause or encounter from this information.
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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So it is as simple as making sure the wheel is unlocked first, and then cutting one wire and taping off the cut end with electrical tape so it doesn't short ? If this works I would be happy to forego the lock function rather than pay $500 for the new lock revision part or risk being stranded somewhere and have to be towed to a dealer. I probably wouldn't even wire in a new switch, especially if I don't get an error light on the dash and the car starts with the cut wire.
Who is going to be the next one to do it and report ?
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Many thanks, folk, for the thank-you..s

And thanks to Gale Force too for his effort ....but

With great respect I found the shop manual a complete pain. It does not cater for such heathen manipulation of sealed steering locks and I doubt the manual writers had proper access to steering lock information anyhow.
(Nissan do not actually make the lock...made by security specialists, Huf Hulsbeck and Furst ... in the USA dontcha know... who probably hate to see this).

I got my head out of incredible repair manual confusion (partly shown in the Gale Force post) and inside the steering lock.

The electric motor in the lock is supplied by two Omron relays. The primary power source to each relay is singular (terminal #1 brown wire). As there's only one power supply it must be switchable on/off/pos/neg. That's logic.

That way the electric motor worm turns clock or anti-clock to drive a gear wheel with an internal cam which drives the lock element in or out, depending on that polarity at the motor.

Take away the power and the motor is stopped at "locked" or "unlocked".
....and for good....until power is re-applied (with any switch). The position sensors, including the one in the driver's door switch, will determine which rotation to use.

That's it: so broody difficult .. yet hindsight changes that: any questions?

Fritz

Now: who'll tell me the numbers written under the "made in" ..... on a VVEL relay? (I can tell you where it is and how to look at it (5 mins).
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Old 04-20-2012, 06:04 PM   #14 (permalink)
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This is defiantly DIY of the year award.
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Old 04-20-2012, 06:16 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPOHN View Post
This is defiantly DIY of the year award.
As long as someone does it and reports back that it is good to go.
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