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DIY: Replace dreaded steering-lock on 2009s and early 2010s.

Has anyone replaced the Lock Switch themselves? I just got off the phone with dealer wanting to charge 500 or 3hours of labor for install. I took it out in

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Old 02-22-2013, 11:37 AM   #646 (permalink)
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Has anyone replaced the Lock Switch themselves? I just got off the phone with dealer wanting to charge 500 or 3hours of labor for install. I took it out in 15 minutes. they told me they need to reprogram key fob. So my question is if this part is plug and play or needs some sort of reprogramming to fully function again. I appologize if this has been answered already in this thread!
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:46 AM   #647 (permalink)
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on my 09 i swapped it out and no need to program. and it is a 15min job.

but i did read about someone needing reprogramming on another model year. but dont know if that was for the fob or something else. go back maybe 10 pages or so. GL
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:48 PM   #648 (permalink)
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:37 AM   #649 (permalink)
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Add me to the list of failed steering locks. Last Thursday night leaving work, banging the wheel did not work. Had it towed, extended warranty and the bill would have come to $1100....but no money out of my pocket due to extended warranty. They (extended warranty) are picking up the towing expenses.

Data: 2009 Rev C
45k miles
Replaced with Rev D

Ordered the bypass harness. $50 from Car Kit Company.
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:52 AM   #650 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ZForce View Post
Add me to the list of failed steering locks. Last Thursday night leaving work, banging the wheel did not work. Had it towed, extended warranty and the bill would have come to $1100....but no money out of my pocket due to extended warranty. They (extended warranty) are picking up the towing expenses.

Data: 2009 Rev C
45k miles
Replaced with Rev D

Ordered the bypass harness. $50 from Car Kit Company.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:10 AM   #651 (permalink)
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:24 PM   #652 (permalink)
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Kenchan wrote:
yah, after you get the failed lock working, put the car in ACC and either cut the brown wire or pull the fuse. that is your permanent solution per other members.

There's my other thread(s) brought up very recently about how to deal with this lock ---
without fitting the lock...simple really.....and ... done since a year ago.
The lock itself is a minefield best kept away from the car (!) if only 'cos it's heavy.
Example: The gear has three ramps, 2 external plus the obvious one....and the "fail safe" lock has to be removed/junked....and the cush spring is just that and not a part of the in/out locking element.
......And...it's all so boring....but the plastic gear can/may distort along with its gear teeth...not good for health of driver....and it can even be fitted (and work) up-side-down!
None of that should ever go into an operational lock....without proper R&D know-how.
.........
That was all for fixing an operational lock: please don't do it...use the circuit board alone

To dismantle (in an organised manner) test and reassemble correctly took me 2 pages of careful writing.........available to any-body with my same tiresome demands...for the safety of all...and my integrity....and this site's integrity!
You confirm:
1. Chassis number of the car
2. Name of owner/modifier of the lock
3. An e-mail address and true name exchange (mine too)
4. Written promise of complete confidentiality
5. Written acceptance of responsibility.
6. Owner/modifier phone number.
7. The data is not for publishing.
8. Follow up to say it works...or not!

I did that a long time ago and the offer is still open. It is "up to you". Preferably start with a complete lock to complete the job tidily....and you do not need a Dremmel....but do need a small drill/tap and saw.

It costs nothing. other than a few dollars for parts, maybe, at a local electronics store.

And---in any case a SAFE "lock" will be away from the column, or not contain the motor: if it does, the cover must be bolted in place (no tape!) as the motor torque will lift the cover and destroy the plastic gear........etc...and give you an excuse for a crash, apart from your own ill-assembly.

Fritz

Meanwhile, did you contact the NTHSA?...if not...please do. There's insufficient numbers on their plate to do anything...I guess...as the potential for grief is there....and Nissan did it for the GTRs....an admission of guilt surely.
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:39 PM   #653 (permalink)
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MY SLU, JF00B, failed yesterday and is out of warranty. Called dealer for the part JF00D and they said Nissan replaced that one with a new D8700-JF00D. I've search this forum and no instances has been found.

I wonder if this part is just the same as the 48700-JF00D. Anyone else used this part?
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:38 PM   #654 (permalink)
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Im stuck.... The yellow key light is on and the car won't start.

I tried moving the wheel up and down (hard) and no luck.

Got a hammer and tapped on the lock itself, most likely harder than I should have and still nothing.

Took the ground wire off the battery for a few mins and that didn't help.

To add to the fun, the driver side window went down a little every time I opened it but not back up when closed, in the end leaving the window half way down.

Any ideas for how I can get it unlocked and to the dealership???????
It is under warrenty but they don't cover towing and its in a parking garage so towing would be a *****

Please help!!
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:09 PM   #655 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Nismo_Q View Post
MY SLU, JF00B, failed yesterday and is out of warranty. Called dealer for the part JF00D and they said Nissan replaced that one with a new D8700-JF00D. I've search this forum and no instances has been found.

I wonder if this part is just the same as the 48700-JF00D. Anyone else used this part?
Googling "D8700-JF00" turns up nothing to do with SLUs. My guess is that either the first character was copied wrong or 1=A, 2=B, 3=C, 4=D, ... .
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:44 PM   #656 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
Googling "D8700-JF00" turns up nothing to do with SLUs. My guess is that either the first character was copied wrong or 1=A, 2=B, 3=C, 4=D, ... .
Just orderd the last one from this site, shipped same day from Oklahoma. Probably is same as 48700-JF00D.

http://www.group1autoparts.com/item....PARTS&weight=1

It's odd that I found a few sites that has both item numbers listed. Will report back when I receive actual unit.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:47 PM   #657 (permalink)
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Check your auto insurance to see if they cover roadside assistance. If no, find a buddy with AAA card.
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:15 PM   #658 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Nismo_Q View Post
Just orderd the last one from this site, shipped same day from Oklahoma. Probably is same as 48700-JF00D.

http://www.group1autoparts.com/item....PARTS&weight=1

It's odd that I found a few sites that has both item numbers listed. Will report back when I receive actual unit.
Not sure why Google didn't pick that up.

The description at your link says "Genuine Nissan 370Z Upgraded Steering Lock Set" (my emphasis). Maybe there is a difference.
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:29 AM   #659 (permalink)
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http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-w...ml#post2202876

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Old 03-08-2013, 11:42 AM   #660 (permalink)
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Default recalled steering lock 2009 370z

Dealer just called me this morning and said a service bulletin just crossed his desk saying the part has been recalled and I will owe nothing. My steering lock went out last week with 58000 miles on the car and was told it would be 985 plus tax. This is great news that the part was recalled saving me some serious cash!!
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