DIY: Oil Cooler (scratch built install, lottsa pics).....>.

Modshack · 05-18-2009, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LiquidZ

Question about your oil filter:

It looks like the PL14610 fits on our cars, but where do you go to check to see if it does in the first place?

It's also a 20mm thread. Linked above the picture is this thread: Don't Use Nissan OEM Oil Filters (Long Post - Lotsa Pics) - MyG37

Read it...Very interesting!

Modshack · 05-18-2009, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Tuttl

Can the stock oil pump handle the increased volume of the oil cooler, new piping, and slightly larger Pure One filter? Does the oil pressure decrease?

Increasing the oil volume has nothing to do with the pumps ability to pressurize the oiling system other than to keep temps down and therefore viscosity up. Cooler, higher viscosity oil will typically show a higher pressure were you to put a gauge on this.

shumby · 05-18-2009, 10:34 AM

^^^ right but you will see a drop in flow rate.

wstar · 05-18-2009, 10:38 AM

Interesting about using a longer filter. This inspired me to xref the K&N filters. Looks like, their model HP-1010 is the equivalent. The specs are identical to the HP-1008 some of us are already using except that it's about 7/8" longer.

wstar · 05-18-2009, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shumby

^^^ right but you will see a drop in flow rate.

I have no idea how our (or other) oil pumps are designed, but I would think depending on the pump design you would either see a drop in flow rate (from moving a larger volume of oil using the same force), or an increase in oil pump 'drag' on the engine but same flow rate (in the case that the pump is designed to move a fixed volume per stroke/rev/whatever regardless).

alan93rsa · 05-18-2009, 10:45 AM

Modshack,

Nice install and a very nice writeup. It should prove valuable to many on the list.

Alan

Gokart3 · 05-18-2009, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

Heh heh...Thanks. Funny seeing you here..

Heh heh.... you never know. With your persuasive indoctrination skills, you may end up seeing more of me here. At least I didn't buy a Vette!

Modshack · 05-18-2009, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

I have no idea how our (or other) oil pumps are designed, but I would think depending on the pump design you would either see a drop in flow rate (from moving a larger volume of oil using the same force), or an increase in oil pump 'drag' on the engine but same flow rate (in the case that the pump is designed to move a fixed volume per stroke/rev/whatever regardless).

I would think that the limitations in pressure and flow would be determined downstream of the filter and cooler, limited by Bearing clearances, oiling orfice sizes, the relief valve, viscosity, heat levels, thermal expansion etc. Once the system (cooler and filter) is pressurized the factors just listed will determine pressure and flow. There will naturally be less flow and higher pressure with cooler oil. This is mentioned in the service manual when testing on a cool engine and anyone who's ever had an oil pressure gauge on a car can confirm by observing pressure drops as an engine comes up to temperature....The VVEL failsafe system seems to be sensitive to pressure but is triggered by temps as it is assumed pressure and viscosity drops with extreme temperature rises (see graph at the top of my DIY)

SoCal 370Z · 05-19-2009, 02:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

SoCal....

29" wide
19" high

Many thanks!

Gokart3 · 05-19-2009, 10:30 AM

Hey Steve...

Thought I'd shoot up a quick comment. Not sure if you and I have ever discussed my Ghetto Grommet program. I used it when we put the Comptech supercharger and aftercooler in the S2000. The aftercooler had water lines that ran to a pump in the fender. You may already do this, so if it's a *R* epost, sorry.

Since I'm paranoid of rubber hoses chafing on anything, when I cut holds for them to run thru, I usually go a tad bigger than I need, then make a grommet to surround the hole. I just cut some 1/4 inch rubber hose lengthwise, then wrap it over the cut edge of the plastic/metal that I cut a hole in. I drill a few small holes and then use zip ties to hold the Ghetto Grommet in place. Then I run the hoses thru so it's rubber on rubber instead of rubber on "anything else".

I even use this method in the reverse when running braided stainless line to keep it from sawing thru things. I use a piece of hose slightly larger than the stainless, wrap it, zip tie, etc.. Have a few of those on the STi now. Just thought I'd drop that one here.

You can just barely see the gray hose on the driver side of the aftercooler in this pic. There are two of them that run out of the bottom side of the aftercooler and down into the left front fender under the headlight. An our and return. Russ Scott and John LZ7W helped me with the routing/install/etc.. Good times.

I searched my Fotki acct but couldn't find any pics of the actual Ghetto Grommet, but I'm sure you get the idea. Now I've gotta look even closer at the 370Z since you're playing with one. Not sure if this here forum knows how much of a lottery they hit when you landed here, but sure they will soon if not already.

Any VTDA's out here yet??

Modshack · 05-19-2009, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gokart3

Hey Steve...

I searched my Fotki acct but couldn't find any pics of the actual Ghetto Grommet, but I'm sure you get the idea. Now I've gotta look even closer at the 370Z since you're playing with one. Not sure if this here forum knows how much of a lottery they hit when you landed here, but sure they will soon if not already.

Any VTDA's out here yet??

Brad! Good idea...I was actually looking at that yesterday and planned to do something similar. Seems a few short lengths of slit 6mm silicone will do the trick. Having had a stainless line saw through a power steering hard pipe once I know what you mean! As an expansion of that idea, I think laying a bead of clear silicone inside the split tubing would be super clean and alleviate the need for Zip ties while still holding the "Grommet" in place..
Thanks for the

Haven't started playing with the intake yet, but you can bet the wheels are turning!

Gokart3 · 05-20-2009, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

Brad! Good idea...I was actually looking at that yesterday and planned to do something similar. Seems a few short lengths of slit 6mm silicone will do the trick. Having had a stainless line saw through a power steering hard pipe once I know what you mean! As an expansion of that idea, I think laying a bead of clear silicone inside the split tubing would be super clean and alleviate the need for Zip ties while still holding the "Grommet" in place..
Thanks for the

Haven't started playing with the intake yet, but you can bet the wheels are turning!

Good idea on the silly-cone. Yup, I'll bet they're turnin'!

IMWEZL · 06-10-2009, 01:04 AM

With the extra oil and the thermostatic switch set at 180 is there a need for a windage tray and new dipstick?

Modshack · 06-10-2009, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IMWEZL

With the extra oil and the thermostatic switch set at 180 is there a need for a windage tray and new dipstick?

No....There is no change in the level of the oil in the sump as the additional 1 qt. is carried in the lines and Cooler core. Nothing has really changed...You are just providing an additional cooled path for the oil to flow from Pump>to Cooler>to Filter>to Engine>Back to the sump

boosted180 · 07-14-2009, 04:53 PM

i bought a long oil cooler (according to baker precision, they're the same as tru-cool) years ago for my 240sx, but lost my car in an accident before i could install it.

Long / Tru Cool Oil Coolers

according to one of the guys at baker, the setrab uses a fin design "a lot better" for cooling. the tru-cool/ long is sturdier, but not as good at cooling.

he didnt sound that convincing....

what do you guys think?

05-18-2009, 10:34 AM	#33 (permalink)
shumby Captin Canuck Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: with your mom Age: 45 Posts: 6,288 Drives: your sister Rep Power: 237	^^^ right but you will see a drop in flow rate. __________________ Originally Posted by SAM@GTM Engine detonation is not normal and it should never never happen, and whoever told that need to do something else for living . Sam

05-18-2009, 10:38 AM	#34 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Interesting about using a longer filter. This inspired me to xref the K&N filters. Looks like, their model HP-1010 is the equivalent. The specs are identical to the HP-1008 some of us are already using except that it's about 7/8" longer. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

05-18-2009, 10:45 AM	#36 (permalink)
alan93rsa Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Ohio Posts: 412 Drives: 16 Cayman GT4 Red Rep Power: 221	Modshack, Nice install and a very nice writeup. It should prove valuable to many on the list. Alan __________________ 16 Cayman GT4, Carmine Red, Buckets, PCCB etc.

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05-19-2009, 10:30 AM	#40 (permalink)
Gokart3 Base Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 4 Drives: TBD Rep Power: 17	Hey Steve... Thought I'd shoot up a quick comment. Not sure if you and I have ever discussed my Ghetto Grommet program. I used it when we put the Comptech supercharger and aftercooler in the S2000. The aftercooler had water lines that ran to a pump in the fender. You may already do this, so if it's a R epost, sorry. Since I'm paranoid of rubber hoses chafing on anything, when I cut holds for them to run thru, I usually go a tad bigger than I need, then make a grommet to surround the hole. I just cut some 1/4 inch rubber hose lengthwise, then wrap it over the cut edge of the plastic/metal that I cut a hole in. I drill a few small holes and then use zip ties to hold the Ghetto Grommet in place. Then I run the hoses thru so it's rubber on rubber instead of rubber on "anything else". I even use this method in the reverse when running braided stainless line to keep it from sawing thru things. I use a piece of hose slightly larger than the stainless, wrap it, zip tie, etc.. Have a few of those on the STi now. Just thought I'd drop that one here. You can just barely see the gray hose on the driver side of the aftercooler in this pic. There are two of them that run out of the bottom side of the aftercooler and down into the left front fender under the headlight. An our and return. Russ Scott and John LZ7W helped me with the routing/install/etc.. Good times. I searched my Fotki acct but couldn't find any pics of the actual Ghetto Grommet, but I'm sure you get the idea. Now I've gotta look even closer at the 370Z since you're playing with one. Not sure if this here forum knows how much of a lottery they hit when you landed here, but sure they will soon if not already. Any VTDA's out here yet??

06-10-2009, 01:04 AM	#43 (permalink)
IMWEZL Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: HNL Posts: 603 Drives: 370Z/MKVII GTI Rep Power: 18	With the extra oil and the thermostatic switch set at 180 is there a need for a windage tray and new dipstick?

07-14-2009, 04:53 PM	#45 (permalink)
boosted180 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: long beach Posts: 188 Drives: '09 370z sport 6m Rep Power: 17	i bought a long oil cooler (according to baker precision, they're the same as tru-cool) years ago for my 240sx, but lost my car in an accident before i could install it. Long / Tru Cool Oil Coolers according to one of the guys at baker, the setrab uses a fin design "a lot better" for cooling. the tru-cool/ long is sturdier, but not as good at cooling. he didnt sound that convincing.... what do you guys think?