DIY: Oil Cooler (scratch built install, lottsa pics).....>.

TipsZ · 03-08-2010, 08:30 AM

I've got a question for you experienced modders out there. How much should I torque down the AN fittings for those lines that are supplied from the GTM kit? I am currently getting a little seepage from the edge of where the fittings meet the steel braided line. Is this something to be concerned about? When I get her back up on stands, I will take some pics and post (though that probably will not happen until at the earliest the evening of Tuesday - 9 March).

Modshack · 03-08-2010, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TipsZ

How much should I torque down the AN fittings for those lines that are supplied from the GTM kit? I am currently getting a little seepage from the edge of where the fittings meet the steel braided line. Is this something to be concerned about? When I get her back up on stands, I will take some pics and post (though that probably will not happen until at the earliest the evening of Tuesday - 9 March).

AN fittings do not take a lot of torque to seal completely The design of the fitting cone is precise and should never leak. I'm a bit suspect of the GTM lines. though. One (Tardcore) has bown apart already. They should not leak at the braid. This may indicate they were not assembled correctly. You can take them apart and check but it's awkward to do on the car. Stainless lines have a very high pressure rating normally but if not fully seated in the sockets this could be reduced significantly and potentially leak..

Billy830 · 03-08-2010, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

AN fittings do not take a lot of torque to seal completely The design of the fitting cone is precise and should never leak. I'm a bit suspect of the GTM lines. though. One (Tardcore) has bown apart already. They should not leak at the braid. This may indicate they were not assembled correctly. You can take them apart and check but it's awkward to do on the car. Stainless lines have a very high pressure rating normally but if not fully seated in the sockets this could be reduced significantly and potentially leak..

I would not call them precise fittings, knicks or any imperfections can affect the seal, mostly under high pressure conditions, for which you would use stainless fittings. Aluminium is not considered high pressure and there for should be inspected for knicks or any imperfections(we drop things and aluminum is soft). Voishan seals are made for AN fittings and will compress and make a perfect seal but these are generally used for high pressure applications but will work for low pressure apps as well.
We are only working with a low presure system.
The leaking or weeping at the hose and braid says to me that the hose is not properly installed on the fitting (cut straight) piece of braid has overlapped the hose end or has a bend to close to the fitting that it has distorted the shape of the hose on the fitting and for me I think that that the latter is the main problem with hoses popping off. Aluminum fittings can be over torqued and strip the threads unlike stainless. Snug up the fitting and take 1/4 final turn.
On pipe threads always use teflon tape. Start 1/16-1/8" back from end start to wrap counter clockwise and only take 2 wraps, don't over do it. Becarefull that no tape over laps the end of the fitting as this will get cut off and get into the system. If you remove a pipe fitting with teflon tape on it use a soft wire brush (tape will become clear after use and you may not notice it )to remove excess teflon tape, do not just tape over the fitting. Inspect the other fitting end for left over teflon and remove any that has been left behind if not this stuff will make its way into the system when you reinstall the fittings.

Check your routing and clamping make sure that the bends are not severe.

TipsZ · 03-08-2010, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billy830

I would not call them precise fittings, knicks or any imperfections can affect the seal, mostly under high pressure conditions, for which you would use stainless fittings. Aluminium is not considered high pressure and there for should be inspected for knicks or any imperfections(we drop things and aluminum is soft)..... The leaking or weeping at the hose and braid says to me that the hose is not properly installed on the fitting (cut straight) piece of braid has overlapped the hose end or has a bend to close to the fitting that it has distorted the shape of the hose on the fitting and for me I think that that the latter is the main problem with hoses popping off. Aluminum fittings can be over torqued and strip the threads unlike stainless. Snug up the fitting and take 1/4 final turn....Check your routing and clamping make sure that the bends are not severe.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

AN fittings do not take a lot of torque to seal completely The design of the fitting cone is precise and should never leak. I'm a bit suspect of the GTM lines. though. One (Tardcore) has bown apart already. They should not leak at the braid. This may indicate they were not assembled correctly. You can take them apart and check but it's awkward to do on the car. Stainless lines have a very high pressure rating normally but if not fully seated in the sockets this could be reduced significantly and potentially leak..

Thank you both for your experience with this type of issue. I plan to get some pictures up in the next few days to show you guys what I am talking about. I too am worried as I purchased the GTM kit from Tardcore. However, the vendor replaced the suspect hose (with a much too long one at that). I need to confirm with Tardcore that he did not alter the lines, and that they were directly from the vendor .. that may give me a bit more piece of mind.

Modshack · 03-08-2010, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TipsZ

Thank you both for your experience with this type of issue. I plan to get some pictures up in the next few days to show you guys what I am talking about. I too am worried as I purchased the GTM kit from Tardcore. However, the vendor replaced the suspect hose (with a much too long one at that). I need to confirm with Tardcore that he did not alter the lines, and that they were directly from the vendor .. that may give me a bit more piece of mind.

I think I would be concerned as well. Burst pressure on a correctly assembled Stainless socketed fitting is 1000psi. They shouldn't leak, and they shouldn't blow off. I suspect Tardcores's were pulled off due to no slack, but this may indicate a more serious problem with the hose assembly. If they are both leaking, both the old hose and the new, I would be doubly concerned. Until you can check them, I would keep my eyes glued to the oil pressure light. Correct assembly is outlined at the end of this .PDF:
http://97.74.103.94/files/bhose.pdf

These are re-usable fittings, so you may disassemble to check as mentioned above. It is critical that the hose goes all the way into the socket and is not pushed out when the nipple is tightened.

Billy830 · 03-08-2010, 04:40 PM

Those are the type of fittings that I would use not the fittings that are just push on with barbs and I believe that those are the fittings that people out there are having problems with not the type shown in the PDF you posted. Also at the end of the PDF it says to proof the fitting at twice the pressure and I am sure that the DIY people do not have the setup to do that. Just make the hose and slap it on. So here again I say have a shop put the fittings on, they have the equipment and will do a static pressure check of the lines for leaks. Just my opinion. Or you can purchase all the tools to do it your self correctly $$$$$$.

What did the oil filter commercial say " Pay me now or Pay me later" ?

Lets move on guys we are beating this one to death.

Modshack · 03-08-2010, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billy830

Those are the type of fittings that I would use not the fittings that are just push on with barbs and I believe that those are the fittings that people out there are having problems with not the type shown in the PDF you posted.

Lets move on guys we are beating this one to death.

Both types of fittings have failed. Both DIY and commercial kits.
We can move on anytime, but if the focus on correct installation prevents even one guy from toasting an $8,000 motor, the discussion is worth the time.....

Modshack · 03-10-2010, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

I think I would be concerned as well. Burst pressure on a correctly assembled Stainless socketed fitting is 1000psi. They shouldn't leak, and they shouldn't blow off. I suspect Tardcores's were pulled off due to no slack, but this may indicate a more serious problem with the hose assembly. If they are both leaking, both the old hose and the new, I would be doubly concerned. Until you can check them, I would keep my eyes glued to the oil pressure light. Correct assembly is outlined at the end of this .PDF:
http://97.74.103.94/files/bhose.pdf

These are re-usable fittings, so you may disassemble to check as mentioned above. It is critical that the hose goes all the way into the socket and is not pushed out when the nipple is tightened.

Well...we thought we had One mystery solved. It appears the stainless hose failure (twice) was the result of bad assembly. Vendor points fingers and Buyer denies it... Who knows what really happened other than teh AN fitting(s) were improperly assembled. One less thing for some of you to worry about!... Details in this thread:
AN fitting movement / rotation on Oil Cooler Lines?

03-08-2010, 08:30 AM	#1 (permalink)
TipsZ Track Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Lithia, FL Age: 53 Posts: 552 Drives: 09 Nissan 370z CS M6 Rep Power: 188	I've got a question for you experienced modders out there. How much should I torque down the AN fittings for those lines that are supplied from the GTM kit? I am currently getting a little seepage from the edge of where the fittings meet the steel braided line. Is this something to be concerned about? When I get her back up on stands, I will take some pics and post (though that probably will not happen until at the earliest the evening of Tuesday - 9 March). __________________ Dynojet 285 HP/245 TQ (pre CBE)// Agency Power CBE // GTM Test Pipes // JWT Pop Chargers // B&M Short Shifter // Eibach Springs // Powder-coated Akebono's // Powder-coated Strut Bar // Black Chromed 19" Rays // // Redline Designs Graphics TipsZ journal

03-08-2010, 04:40 PM	#6 (permalink)
Billy830 Base Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Port Saint Lucie Fl. Age: 79 Posts: 31 Drives: 370Z Mag Black 6sp m Rep Power: 17	Good post with the PDF Those are the type of fittings that I would use not the fittings that are just push on with barbs and I believe that those are the fittings that people out there are having problems with not the type shown in the PDF you posted. Also at the end of the PDF it says to proof the fitting at twice the pressure and I am sure that the DIY people do not have the setup to do that. Just make the hose and slap it on. So here again I say have a shop put the fittings on, they have the equipment and will do a static pressure check of the lines for leaks. Just my opinion. Or you can purchase all the tools to do it your self correctly $$$$$$. What did the oil filter commercial say " Pay me now or Pay me later" ? Lets move on guys we are beating this one to death.

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