Review: Whiteline Front anti-roll bar

Rangerz

osbornsm,

Snapped a few pics for you. Here is what I think is happening to people who have these pushing out.

#1 I have my locks much closer than you do .060 from the bushing clamp sticks in my head but, that could be wrong. BL=Need to be closer to the bushing clamp.

#2 When these push out it is a compounding problem. By that I mean if you have your lock 1/4" away and the bushing rides the bar "pushes out" then the bar settles back to a normal balance after your corner is done. It doesn't mean the rubber bushing is following it back in, then another corner and you push it a little more etc...

#3 This type of setup needs to be greased with good grease. The lack of grease will increase the stiction of the rubber and the bar when their is friction which causes it to follow or ride the bar.

I have just over 9000 miles and 24 20 min track sessions on my setup. I did see just the slightest like 1/16" displacement in my driver side rubber bushing.

I'm going to add Sway Bar re-grease to my 10,000 mi maintenance.

Here are the pics for reference. Hope this helps you out. They are good bars but, I agree the Hotchins bushings are a much better design.





Just saw your above post looks like those bushings are the ticket. Can you buy those separably?

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Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

kenchan

that looks good. meaty btw, that meaty side is suppose to go on the inner side, probably...

yah, that's wat the problem is too i think... i mentioned earlier as well that the collars need to be basically flush -0.5mm..otherwise the bar moves too much giving the endlinks leverage to push the bushing out from under the brackets.

mine have been fine the last 2 seasons.