I need help selecting new pads&rotors...

Vicster

I can definitely feel DjSquall - I'm going on 30k miles and I have already had my rotors turned twice due to lateral runoff. I DO NOT drive like a crazy person, but I do about 90 miles a day here in the Washington Metro Area which typically consists of part highway and part stop and go traffic on the regular. (Usually half and half on a daily trip..) On the highway I cruse between 65-75 but usually just at 70 and very rarely do I need to stop hard in traffic as I tend to keep a comfortable distance. In traffic I do no accelerate quickly and due to that, I do not need to brake hard or long. I engine brake down hill often (but only when necessary), and sometimes at stops. I have tried modifying my braking from high pressure braking, low pressure, full on, and intermittent. I just want to put emphasis on the fact that I am not driving wild on my regular commute yet I do see see the same symptoms.

The only thing I have not done yet is dropping it into neutral (or the handbrake idea) at stops to lay off the brakes, but I do find it odd that I would be building that much heat in the first place. (It's not like I'm trying to set the brakes doing 80mph hard braking then keeping the brake depressed to the hot rotor.) Could my limited amount of stop and go traffic (1/2 my day = ~45 miles with may half of that S&G = ~22.5 miles) really be heating the rotors up that significantly to cause deposits?

I have an extended warranty so the dealer turns the rotors for free, but I don't agree with their "lead engineers" when it comes to the number of times you should turn a rotor on our vehicles. When I asked them, "how many times do you turn them before you will just replace them" the answer was essentially indefinitely (which is a load of ******** if you ask me). Probably the same guy that told me you can't clean our MAFs. So as much as I want to take advantage of this, I would also love to forego it by just replacing with something that may cool better since it sounds like they will inevitably just keep turning the rotors. But from what it sounds like, folks here are not recommending the drilled/slotted. Ultimately, I will probably have them turned one more time before absolutely DEMANDING that they replace the rotors under warranty but I just wanted to say, what gives here?!?

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-Chris

'13 Z34 Touring Sport | ARK GRiP CBE | Stillen G3 CAI | AAM HFC | UpRev | 20mm Z1 Spacers | StopTech Drilled/Slotted Rotors | StopTech SS Lines