First Problem With my 370Z

Sh0velMan

Do you hold the pedal down at stop lights? Do you ride the brakes fairly often?

If you hadn't had the rotors replaced already, I'd say with near absolute certainty that it was just transfer turning into cementite (real word).

That said, your driving style could easily have compromised that new set immediately after installation.

I usually recommend for folks like us (I have done this to nearly every car I've ever owned, with the exception of the Z for reasons I'll explain in a sec) use a sintered, all metal pad and just deal with the extra dust and noise (shims really take care of most of that).

I've had sintered pads since almost day one (hard core race pads made by CL Brakes, RC6) and Carbotech has a couple of formulas that are suitable for daily driving as well as autocross or spirited driving.

Again, they're dusty, they make a little noise, but they feel AMAZING and aren't capable of forming cementite as they are not a material transfer pad like ceramics (stock pads) are.

My 2 cents.

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Coon-azz

So it seems that I'm having the same issue here. I have about 19k miles on my 2012. Never been tracked, but this is my daily driver and I do spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic... Every now and then, I do a little spirited street driving. I'm starting to get the shimmer in the steering wheel when I brake. I've done a few 60-0 hard stops to clear off any transfered metals, but it only seems ot clear it up for a few days... then it starts getting worse. I also just had new tires put on the car with an alignment. It seems odd that this happens after I get this done...anyones thoughts?

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I don't care how slow you want to drive; I encourage it. JUST GET THE HELL OUT OF THE PASSING LANE YOU TUCK FARD!!!

Sh0velMan

Yeah, if it's cementite formation, it actually alters the metal of the rotor... simply turning them down a few thousandths to re-surface them won't really suffice. You have to take off a LOT of material to get rid of it, usually resulting in the rotor being out of spec.

I would just get the cheapest rotors you can find and pair them with the most aggressive Carbotech or CL pad you can stomach and call it a day.

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Coon-azz

Why do you choose these pads over others? I'm asking because it seems there was some testing here on your part...which is worth a lot of time and $.

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I don't care how slow you want to drive; I encourage it. JUST GET THE HELL OUT OF THE PASSING LANE YOU TUCK FARD!!!

Sh0velMan

They are non-transfer pads. Not possible to create cementite with a non transfer pad.

You can still WARP them, but it's a helluva lot harder to WARP a rotor than most people think. Almost always involves heavy braking a followed by a temperature shock, like racing to the car wash and immediately dousing the entire rotor in water. lol (Rainwater won't do this, as it'll be constantly sprayed, not nearly-submerged instantly like in a car wash scenario)

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sig11

Carbotech pads do require bedding/create a transfer layer!

Sh0velMan

o rly.

Well then scratch that.

RC5+ or RC6 from CL then.

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