First Problem With my 370Z

ImportConvert

It's a normal daily commute with 1 red-light at the end of an off-ramp in 2 locations, both with a gradient. What exactly am I expected to do about it? Throw it in reverse and rock the car backwards until the light changes? The car should be able to handle it.

My Z06
My WS6
My G20
My Kia rental

They did just fine.

Also, yes, that toasting them in one panic slow (I did not even stop) has me seriously puzzled. That was the start of the whole thing at 10K miles. A panic slow from normal freeway speeds as someone moved over into my lane.

HKYStormFront

when i was a service writer i always sold alignments with tires. my pitch (that worked) was "you wouldn't get new glasses without getting your eyes checked first, right? same thing..."

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Patrick // 06 Frontier 6spd Nismosis // Mods: Uprev Tuned @ Z1 Motorsports: 257whp & 292 ft lbs
09 Pontiac G8 GXP // M6 // Sunroof // Tint... For now

ImportConvert

Yeah, it's one of the few things that I now honestly believe is a real "Value added" and not an up-charge. All it took was one 275/40/17 F1GSD3 chewed to **** to convince me

sig11

For street pads I really like the Carbotech 1521/Bobcats. Little/no dust, no squeal, good feel, and seem to last forever.

B&W_Evader

Went straight to the XP8s, little bit of squeel after 3k miles, little worse after 5k. Combined with Motul RBF600, don't have to worry about them overheating. Mine's a daily driver.

Better to change your stop light habits after heating up your brakes. Let the pad sit on a fresh spot on the rotor every 20-30 seconds. Just give yourself a couple of extra feet at the light then move forward about a 2 feet every 30 seconds. That'll allow your rotors to cool a little more evenly.

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ddot196

Come to Texas. We have lots of open roads :-P

spitfire9200

and speed limits that change with the time of day and cops that pull you over for 3 over =P

ImportConvert

I've lived there, true story!

TX is a grab-bag of good/bad. Theft was too high for me. Property taxes can get ugly, too.

ImportConvert

2 weeks ago the front rotors were turned. The driver's side required 2 passes, I was told. WTF?

The tech then bedded them in for me with the aid of a laser temp. gun.

When I got back in my car, braking was positive with very good pedal feel and none of the previous shaking. +1 to my local Nissan dealership, Orr Nissan of Bossier City, LA!

I was handed a zeroed ticket and offered coffee and entertained by the receptionist and television during my wait.

The car is doing as well today as it was that day. G2G.

SurfDog

Great opportunity to upgrade your rotors brake fluid and pads I figure.

I like it when stuff breaks so I can take it off and shop this forum for upgrades!!!!

Nismo pads are supposed to be good. I hear Oem rotors and pads are a problem to remove if you run your brakes hard (I don't often but will upgrade nonetheless for peace of mind).

The calipers are reported to be solid even by the track gurus.

Brake cooling also seems to be a common issue. I'm thinking of putting in a brake duct mod (just because it seems fun)

My advice. Let your mechanical failures bring you joy by using them as an opportunity to upgrade your ride!. These cars are awesome with a few little weak spots. When something breaks (or fails to "break" lol) you just found a weak spot! TIME FOR UPGRADES!!!! Woo hoo.

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09 6spd Berk CBE, JWT cams, ZSpeed CSC, Stillen (25 row oil, brake cooling, sways, gen3 CAI), Passport (9500ci), Quaife LSD, Z1 400 hp kit, ss lines, pads, rotors, clutch etc, Phunk's pan and fuel starve fix

FaustoP

I have been having similar issues with warped brakes, I am a normal driver no track time and been getting warped rotors since 4K miles on a Nismo Edition 2011 370Z. Nissan resurfaced them twice and replaced the rotors at 15K without charging me. Up to this point I am still having the same issue and I am not even driving the car that much any more. I get vibration while driving down at 65 70 MPH and hitting the brakes worsens that vibration. I called Nissan corporate to discuss as I had the 2008 Nismo Brembo brakes with no issues but hit the 370 now and end up with lost time and warped rotors. Has anybody tried doing something different to get that issue resolved. I was told the quality of the brake components are not that great and are known to warp. I really don't want to spend 2 to 3 k on big brake as I don't do track.

Sh0velMan

Do you hold the pedal down at stop lights? Do you ride the brakes fairly often?

If you hadn't had the rotors replaced already, I'd say with near absolute certainty that it was just transfer turning into cementite (real word).

That said, your driving style could easily have compromised that new set immediately after installation.

I usually recommend for folks like us (I have done this to nearly every car I've ever owned, with the exception of the Z for reasons I'll explain in a sec) use a sintered, all metal pad and just deal with the extra dust and noise (shims really take care of most of that).

I've had sintered pads since almost day one (hard core race pads made by CL Brakes, RC6) and Carbotech has a couple of formulas that are suitable for daily driving as well as autocross or spirited driving.

Again, they're dusty, they make a little noise, but they feel AMAZING and aren't capable of forming cementite as they are not a material transfer pad like ceramics (stock pads) are.

My 2 cents.

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Coon-azz

So it seems that I'm having the same issue here. I have about 19k miles on my 2012. Never been tracked, but this is my daily driver and I do spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic... Every now and then, I do a little spirited street driving. I'm starting to get the shimmer in the steering wheel when I brake. I've done a few 60-0 hard stops to clear off any transfered metals, but it only seems ot clear it up for a few days... then it starts getting worse. I also just had new tires put on the car with an alignment. It seems odd that this happens after I get this done...anyones thoughts?

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I don't care how slow you want to drive; I encourage it. JUST GET THE HELL OUT OF THE PASSING LANE YOU TUCK FARD!!!

Sh0velMan

Yeah, if it's cementite formation, it actually alters the metal of the rotor... simply turning them down a few thousandths to re-surface them won't really suffice. You have to take off a LOT of material to get rid of it, usually resulting in the rotor being out of spec.

I would just get the cheapest rotors you can find and pair them with the most aggressive Carbotech or CL pad you can stomach and call it a day.

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Coon-azz

Why do you choose these pads over others? I'm asking because it seems there was some testing here on your part...which is worth a lot of time and $.

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I don't care how slow you want to drive; I encourage it. JUST GET THE HELL OUT OF THE PASSING LANE YOU TUCK FARD!!!