SC 370z problem

geohartanto

Hi,

So I had my supercharger on my 7AT Z for almost a year now, and almost have 1000 more miles on it. I started having problems with the car this month.

I had it tuned using UpRev, now the engine light is constantly on, the car feels like it bogs. Just now when the car reaches like 3000 rpm, it shook heavily and it can't go any higher. I tried shifting using the paddle shifter but it would not shift up either and the Z started shaking when i accelerate any more. After I turned off and turned it on again, the problem went away.

Is this a small problem like spark plugs or is this a big problem like i have to change my transmission? help! thanks

phunk

sounds like a possible issue with the tune or settings in the uprev. mechanical problems dont typically go away from turning the car on and off.

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geohartanto

and also,

Ive been dealing with this since the beginning but everytime i accelerate too much, the car's traction control kicks in and i get no power. I don't want to turn off the VDC to be safe, but how do you deal with this? Am i ever going to be able to floor the acceleration from rest with an SC setup?

GUTCH

Have a look at GTM's webite GTMPOWER.COM. Unable to paste the link as it tends to not show in my address window for some reason. Here's a paste of the info...

DESCRIPTION

Racelogic Traction Control System

Universally recognized as the best after market system available, not only dramatically reducing the chances of an accident, but also positively enhancing acceleration. This is why companies like Aston Martin and Lotus Cars choose to fit the system, as unlike other systems, it always improves the performance of the vehicle. The car becomes more fun to drive than before, giving the driver new levels of confidence in pushing the car to its limits without ever overstepping the mark.

Driving with Traction Control

Once you have driven a powerful car with Racelogic Traction Control, you will never want to be without it. We are so sure you'll love it, that we offer a 30 day money back guarantee if you don't agree. Acceleration out of corners becomes rapid and repeatable. Just bury the throttle and the system does the rest; constantly adjusting the power of the engine every thousandth of a second, searching for maximum grip. In a rear wheel drive car you can use full throttle around a corner with full confidence that the rear end isn't going to suddenly break away. In a front wheel drive vehicle, power understeer is cured, with the system setting the correct level of power to finely balance the vehicle.

In wet and slippery conditions the system really becomes fun. Stomp on the gas and watch other cars disappear behind you as the car accelerates as fast as the grip allows without skidding all over the road. Acceleration away from traffic lights is so much quicker than cars without the system, that you'll leave behind scores of drivers with faster cars.



Also there's this thread...

GTM Traction Control NA

As well as Sam from GTM going into some detail about it in an SC or TT thread but I don't know where exactly. Look around.

weiboy718

Are you on their cann tune or custom?

phunk

It will be pretty hard to achieve completely zero wheel spin in first gear, but it might be possible with the boost curve of the supercharger setup. start out with better tires and alignment settings and it will make a world of difference. putting the power to the pavement is a problem with all cars at high horsepower.

what is your current wheel and tire configuration and alignment specs?

most people with most makes and models will turn off their VDC or alike when "racing" or using full power... but if you can get enough traction you may be able to get to the point of being able to leave it on if it makes you more comfortable.

Like the post above, there are less intrusive traction control options that do a better job at not cutting more power than required to maintain ideal traction. But if I were in your shoes... rather then spending even more money to just counter the extra power you paid a ton to achieve, i would put that money into setting the car up to use the power.

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toner123

Yea getting the power to the ground is going to be the most difficult part but let's not forget that you have a problem with your car. The symptoms your describing are not normal. My recommendation is get the car to someone that knows what's going on. Seems you have a electronic component acting weird such as a maf sensor or something not reading the air right.

biggersNISMO

I experienced this on my Z about a year ago. It was due to a bad tune. Took it to a different shop, and an hour later, it ran like a champ. I wish i would have saved the 2 different maps so you could contrast. Basically, I was excessively rich, and my car would "bogg" when I would mash on it.

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Staples

If you can't go past 3,000 rpms that means the car is running in limp mode. It could have to do with air/fuel ratios or the timing is way off. Limp Mode is a protection that the ECU uses when the car is running too rich or too lean to minimize the chance of detonation and blowing up the motor. It also will happen when oil temps get too high or the MAF sensor becomes contaminated since it can't get a proper voltage.

Please take it to a competent tuner and try staying out of boost until the issue is fixed.

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sojirovskensi

just my experience, and I don't have F.I
I pumped gas at a very rural area's gas station, after filling up to the full tank,
my car was jerking very bad. fuel cut at 4700 rpm, and anything after 2500rpm, my car loses power and goes really slow.
If I give a full throttle, it jerked like I was riding a horse.

After using all the gas in the tank, I filled up fresh gas with octane booster, my car became normal.

vividracing

The fact that you've only got 1000 miles in the last year means the car has sat quite a bit. Old gas can cause issues like you described. So can "bad" gas, like ^^^ said. Start by reading the trouble codes and see what that says. I'll bet it's a misfire or MAF sensor code. It could also be the CAS, but unless you have issues starting the car then I don't think it's that. Diagnosing this is going to require some knowledge of how the ECU works and which sensors do what. If you don't want to learn (and possibly buy tools) then take it whoever installed the SC kit. If that's not an option, find a local shop that works on performance cars. If you can find someone that knows Nissans, you're in even better luck.

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Reality

LoL@Racelogic suggestion.....

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John@Z1

Can you send me a datalog of the car when this issue happens? Why must you have traction control turned on with an FI car?

Let us know what it does with traction off(off in the beginning). If it starts to spin let up off the throttle. All drivers need to know what to do when traction is an issue. By the way ever boosted Z/G will bog down when traction control is active. And remember it's not ever fully turned off with the button.

Does this car have an LSD?

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phunk

This also sounds like a good assumption to me, steering towards my original guess that you should get the tune looked at.

when i tuned the uprev in my 370z, it was my first uprev tuning experience. it took me some time to get it down right. while i was still trying to get it correct, i had this happen to me and had to restart the car. it never happened under part throttle, but it would occasionally happen under boost and i would have to full over and restart the car. i then found that i had left a single clamp loose on one of my intercooler pipes and the pipe blew off... i think it was mostly this causing the problem more than my "work in progress" tuning but its hard to say since it all happened over the course of a week or so.

when i blew off that pipe, what was happening was, the car would run fine when not under boost because the MAFs are right next to the throttle bodys so a intake leak wasnt going to make it run goofy. But when i went into boost with a major pressure leak on one side of the turbo system... the side that did not leak was doing all the work trying to pressure the intake manifold, but the air was escaping on the other side... so i maxed out one sides MAF sensor and then the other side read less voltage than idle because air was actually leaving that throttle body to head to the leak. LOL... so I believe that the limp mode I was hitting was a result of reaching the end of one of the MAF sensors.

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geohartanto

thanks for all the info guys as usual,

will get back to u guys after finals