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First Problem With my 370Z

Brakes have an issue. The steering-wheel shakes pretty bad when I press 'em. I am going to drive it a bit and see if something just got on the rotor/pad

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Old 09-10-2012, 08:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default First Problem With my 370Z

Brakes have an issue. The steering-wheel shakes pretty bad when I press 'em.

I am going to drive it a bit and see if something just got on the rotor/pad or what. They are re-finishing the roads here and maybe some gunk needs to be burned off?

If it's not better in 100 miles or so, my 10,000 mile old '12 370Z looks like it will get a Brake Job, probably courtesy of Nissan.

Just my guess for now.

75mph accelerating: smooth. Coasting: smooth. Applies brakes: shakes.
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like the rotors are warp. Any track days?

Base or sport?
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:57 AM   #3 (permalink)
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rotors are warped most likely. nissan won't do anything about it. just have em turned (resurfaced)
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Highly unlikely you've warped those fat chunks of metal this fast.

Far more likely that you are feeling pad transfer (possibly from improper bedding)

It's pretty common with the stock pads. You can try going though the bedding procedure to try and clear them, or scuff up the rotor surface a bit.
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Red__Zed View Post
Highly unlikely you've warped those fat chunks of metal this fast.

Far more likely that you are feeling pad transfer (possibly from improper bedding)

It's pretty common with the stock pads. You can try going though the bedding procedure to try and clear them, or scuff up the rotor surface a bit.
Sport, 10K miles, never got the oil temp above 225, no track days.


It is my opinion that it is possible that somehow pad material transferred improperly, hence I will drive it for 100 miles and see if anything changes, maybe go through a bedding procedure late at night.

It's a myth that rotors warp.

What is the best proceedure for OEM Sport pads?

It feels like a bedding issue to me because the harder I apply the brakes, the "calmer" it feels. If something were not "true", that would only make it worse.
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Last edited by ImportConvert; 09-10-2012 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:16 AM   #6 (permalink)
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It's a myth that rotors warp.
lol... you must have never seen one on a brake lathe
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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lol... you must have never seen one on a brake lathe


Yea that was a joke right?
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:18 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yea that was a joke right?
has to be... i mean the guy can access a forum and type a post, he can't be full-retard
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:22 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Sport, 10K miles, never got the oil temp above 225, no track days.


It is my opinion that it is possible that somehow pad material transferred improperly, hence I will drive it for 100 miles and see if anything changes, maybe go through a bedding procedure late at night.

It's a myth that rotors warp.

What is the best proceedure for OEM Sport pads?

It feels like a bedding issue to me because the harder I apply the brakes, the "calmer" it feels. If something were not "true", that would only make it worse.


Re-bed them. A couple of high speed stops should do ya



"warped rotors" is more a misnomer than a myth, since the uneven deposits represent a "warped" braking surface.
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:24 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red__Zed View Post
Re-bed them. A couple of high speed stops should do ya



"warped rotors" is more a misnomer than a myth, since the uneven deposits represent a "warped" braking surface.
Exactly. A rotor doesn't warp. It can wear un-evenly, or it can get uneven deposits on it, but warp? Show me...
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:51 AM   #11 (permalink)
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while that's probably true in most cases^ i've seen plenty that were almost un-turnable. usually on big, heavy SUV's like escalades. but that's not to say it couldn't happen on smaller cars too
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:58 AM   #12 (permalink)
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while that's probably true in most cases^ i've seen plenty that were almost un-turnable. usually on big, heavy SUV's like escalades. but that's not to say it couldn't happen on smaller cars too
This is because the deposits heated un-equally over time, to much higher temperatures than the surrounding rotor, leading to the conversion of that part/spot on the rotor surface to cementite, a harder material, which will require physical removal or the problem will simply re-present soon as it will not wear with the rest of the rotor face.
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:10 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Ok, misnomer or not, that is what's commonly referred to as "warped rotors". Looks like folks have been helpful with their suggestions. Possibly your pads aren't properly bedded in, or perhaps you have "deposits on your rotor, heated unequally over time to much higher temperatures, leading to the conversion of that part to cementite."

Either way, I really hope this gets sorted quickly and painlessly for you.
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:11 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I have the exact same issue but it has been diagnosed as a warped rotor.
We tried sanding off all the deposits but found out that the front driver's side rotor is warped.
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:12 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I had this same problem with my Z last year. While I didn't try the re-bedding procedure, I did get the rotors resurfaced and it was running perfectly after that.
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