First Problem With my 370Z

Chuck33079 · 05-30-2013, 10:47 AM

If it were my car, I'd double check every single torque value on the braking system and front suspension against the service manual. Tap on things with a rubber mallet and see if they move. Pull out the pads and see if the pistons move freely and completely retract into the calipers. You may find nothing is out of whack. You might find something the dealer missed. If everything checks out, scuff up the rotors and pads slightly, go get the directions for bedding pads off Stoptech's website and go do it again yourself. If all of that solves your problem, fantastic. If not, you've just eliminated another variable.

Something is wrong with your specific car. Few people have had rotor issues, and those that had them solved it when they went to aftermarket pads and rotors. You've changed out pretty much everything but the calipers, master cylinder and ABS unit, and the problem still occurs. This suggests to me that the root cause is not a braking issue, and the warping of the rotors are a symptom of something else being wrong. That makes me think something gets out of line when the nose dives under braking. You've claimed that the rotors were previously toasted in a single stop. That's not normal at all.

ImportConvert · 05-30-2013, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

If it were my car, I'd double check every single torque value on the braking system and front suspension against the service manual. Tap on things with a rubber mallet and see if they move. Pull out the pads and see if the pistons move freely and completely retract into the calipers. You may find nothing is out of whack. You might find something the dealer missed. If everything checks out, scuff up the rotors and pads slightly, go get the directions for bedding pads off Stoptech's website and go do it again yourself. If all of that solves your problem, fantastic. If not, you've just eliminated another variable.

Something is wrong with your specific car. Few people have had rotor issues, and those that had them solved it when they went to aftermarket pads and rotors. You've changed out pretty much everything but the calipers, master cylinder and ABS unit, and the problem still occurs. This suggests to me that the root cause is not a braking issue, and the warping of the rotors are a symptom of something else being wrong. That makes me think something gets out of line when the nose dives under braking. You've claimed that the rotors were previously toasted in a single stop. That's not normal at all.

**** car. Done with it. I'm not going to go and bother blowing a whole day to do what Nissan should have done, unless Nissan is going to pay me my standard working hourly rate to do it for them. I work to pay for my toys, and while installing mods is fun and I like it, fixing things that shouldn't need fixing that shouldn't be wrong is just drudgery to me.

The nose doesn't have to dip. If the pads touch rotor, the car starts shaking, now. Previously it was just the wheel, but we are now to the point that I get a bit of that blurry vision when my head touches the headrest and I brake, sometimes. Maybe that sounds worse than it is, but the whole car is shaking and my Dad in the passenger seat who can tool around in a busted down ex police car with no AC and a floor-pan that you can see pavement through, immediately proclaimed "something isn't right".

Everything that you have listed was done by the dealership. They checked the calipers and everything. The service manager suspected some form of hardware issue and made sure it was all inspected. I KNOW they are going to get tired of seeing my car, so I don't think they limp-dicked it, I really don't.

Now you're right, I might come in and find something wrong behind them, but I'm not going to hunt around my Dad's warehouse to find all the tools I would need, and kill an afternoon doing it, when I am pretty sure it's nothing I'm going to detect without specialized items (tq wrench, maybe Nissan specific measuring devices?). I'm really just not keen on spending the money to buy a good tq wrench and burning an afternoon. Further, I sleep during the day, typically, and this isn't something you do at night.

I never loved this car, and I'm not going to go out of my way for it now of all times. I spent my time wrenching under it when the Berk CBE I bought wouldn't fit for **** and I had to off-set it enough that when it sags down and the hanger on the left side slips off the grommet, it's sitting level. That was enough fun for me. Oh, I also installed Z1 smooth intake tubing...without removing the strut brace. At night. With a flashlight. Without breaking anything. It became a struggle of ego.

Fishey · 05-30-2013, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImportConvert

**** car. Done with it. I'm not going to go and bother blowing a whole day to do what Nissan should have done, unless Nissan is going to pay me my standard working hourly rate to do it for them. I work to pay for my toys, and while installing mods is fun and I like it, fixing things that shouldn't need fixing that shouldn't be wrong is just drudgery to me.

The nose doesn't have to dip. If the pads touch rotor, the car starts shaking, now. Previously it was just the wheel, but we are now to the point that I get a bit of that blurry vision when my head touches the headrest and I brake, sometimes. Maybe that sounds worse than it is, but the whole car is shaking and my Dad in the passenger seat who can tool around in a busted down ex police car with no AC and a floor-pan that you can see pavement through, immediately proclaimed "something isn't right".

Everything that you have listed was done by the dealership. They checked the calipers and everything. The service manager suspected some form of hardware issue and made sure it was all inspected. I KNOW they are going to get tired of seeing my car, so I don't think they limp-dicked it, I really don't.

Now you're right, I might come in and find something wrong behind them, but I'm not going to hunt around my Dad's warehouse to find all the tools I would need, and kill an afternoon doing it, when I am pretty sure it's nothing I'm going to detect without specialized items (tq wrench, maybe Nissan specific measuring devices?). I'm really just not keen on spending the money to buy a good tq wrench and burning an afternoon. Further, I sleep during the day, typically, and this isn't something you do at night.

I never loved this car, and I'm not going to go out of my way for it now of all times. I spent my time wrenching under it when the Berk CBE I bought wouldn't fit for **** and I had to off-set it enough that when it sags down and the hanger on the left side slips off the grommet, it's sitting level. That was enough fun for me. Oh, I also installed Z1 smooth intake tubing...without removing the strut brace. At night. With a flashlight. Without breaking anything. It became a struggle of ego.

I once took a car to a dealership 3 times and they couldn't find an issue under warranty. At the time I worked for the company at a different location and got in some regional people involved with a plan. I found the problem and then marked the problem at my shop with a giant yellow paint marker arrow. Then I wrote a message "bad ball joint". Then I took it to the service area for the 4th time for the same problem and again they couldn't find the problem. However, I had the contacts and resources to get corporate involved and the service writer and 2 techs were basically told they could no longer service their brand. So the dealership ended up firing them as a result.

Needless to say I would take it to a reputable independent at the very least.

Chuck33079 · 05-30-2013, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fishey

I once took a car to a dealership 3 times and they couldn't find an issue under warranty. At the time I worked for the company at a different location and got in some regional people involved with a plan. I found the problem and then marked the problem at my shop with a giant yellow paint marker arrow. Then I wrote a message "bad ball joint". Then I took it to the service area for the 4th time for the same problem and again they couldn't find the problem. However, I had the contacts and resources to get corporate involved and the service writer and 2 techs were basically told they could no longer service their brand. So the dealership ended up firing them as a result.

Needless to say I would take it to a reputable independent at the very least.

I've suggested another place of service several times. That's a non-starter.

Chuck33079 · 05-30-2013, 12:56 PM

If you're not going to start troubleshooting the issue yourself, and you're unwilling to let another dealer take a crack at solving the issue then there's nothing that can be done. What's keeping you from cutting your losses and selling the car?

I'd also like to point out that a good torque wrench isn't a specialty item. It's a tool any man should own.

ImportConvert · 05-30-2013, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

If you're not going to start troubleshooting the issue yourself, and you're unwilling to let another dealer take a crack at solving the issue then there's nothing that can be done. What's keeping you from cutting your losses and selling the car?

I'd also like to point out that a good torque wrench isn't a specialty item. It's a tool any man should own.

I'm waiting for the BRZ STI and '15 GT.
This whole car just feels fragile to me, and the 'vette guys tried to tell me it was a prettyboy ride. It is what it is. I ignored these facts, believed that magazine paper numbers told the whole story, and now Nissan and their faggy philosophy of compromising performance for looks and paper numbers is biting me in the arse. The Nismo eating the wall due to lack of airflow in the wheel wells during the Lightning Lap was my clue, aside from experienced guys telling me the same thing. When I had my vette. Well, its what I get, I guess. Hey, at least girls like the curves, lol!

Done with this car, and not looking for **** a body shop couldn't find tearing the front end apart, or the gtr service techs prying into the matter. Hate it, but it still gets from a to b, wo ill deal, but **** Nissan.

Chuck33079 · 05-30-2013, 05:27 PM

Thanks for the input, but he's already replaced all of that with aftermarket parts. The issue persists, so we're trying to figure out what's really going on.

You forgot these, so I brought extra ................................................

Chuck33079 · 05-30-2013, 08:30 PM

Well, good luck with that. Hopefully the next one works better for you.

ImportConvert · 05-30-2013, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Well, good luck with that. Hopefully the next one works better for you.

Thanks. I keep hearing nothing but good about the brz and current mustang gt. I'll get the STI for sure if it drops, if not, the gt. My main problem is that brakes are not a warranty item. The dealer is doing me a favor, because Nissan misadvertised this car, and the dealer is pissed for me. I'd rather drop a valve than this. At least that would be a black and white warranty item. This is also why I'm not going to another dealer. I'm running full aftermarket up front, and they would just laugh. This dealer service manager is who recommended it, and will take up for it.

I've dumped half a grand into fixing a factory defect. If you reimburse me, ill spend more. Until then, I'm sticking with this dealer. No sense throwing good money after bad.

ImportConvert · 05-30-2013, 09:38 PM

I'm sorry to be a ****, but nissan is taking me for $630/mo on a pile of **** worse than my 1980's mustang 5.0. Of course I'm going to be caustic.

Chuck33079 · 05-30-2013, 09:48 PM

Maybe you just got a bad one. Why not cut it loose and go with something cheap for a year or two? No sense paying out the *** for something you hate. It'll only be worth less later. Might be time for a beater for a while and bank the payments.

ImportConvert · 05-30-2013, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Maybe you just got a bad one. Why not cut it loose and go with something cheap for a year or two? No sense paying out the *** for something you hate. It'll only be worth less later. Might be time for a beater for a while and bank the payments.

I get what you mean, logically, but the ttl credit for taxes I get for this when I trade will make up for interest lost if i keep it, and as to the note, I'm upside down. I thought this car would last a long time and financed for 72 but it fell apart as I left the dealer lot almost it seems. Yes, ill pay more doing it my way, but the ac blows cold, and any repairs are warrantied on this. A beater is a wildcard. My g20 infiniti cost me $3-400 a month just in repairs...again...I'm a dipsbit for buying another Nissan product.

they pedal sexy junk.

All of you who said "you can't compare a decade old sentra with leather to a new Nissan"...well you're damn wrong. Windshields in both crack super easy, both suspensions have way too much rubber, both cars have serious durability issues. Both have cheap paint. Really, I can see my old g20's annoying brokedown reflection leering back at me from this 370. Last Nissan. Ever.

I haven't broken anything yet, aside from the brakes, Lmao!
So much cheaper to bitch online than to take my anger out in the physical world, so chill out if it bothers you, I promise, this is the more mature option. Promises.

Chuck33079 · 05-30-2013, 10:01 PM

Ouch. You're on the right track then. If you're upside down, just drive the ******* thing into the ground.

A word of advice from a former multiple Subaru owner- dont buy the first year. Both times I did, and the second model year improvements were significant.

ImportConvert · 05-30-2013, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Ouch. You're on the right track then. If you're upside down, just drive the ******* thing into the ground.

A word of advice from a former multiple Subaru owner- dont buy the first year. Both times I did, and the second model year improvements were significant.

Yeah, that's about it. In my state, if you trade down, you don't pay ttl. You don't get money back, either. My z06 to 370 was a wash on ttl...just like a 370 to a beater...or $40k car would.be. ill take the greater wash. Make sense? La is wierd. Sry.

Yeah, I'm holding out until 32-34k miles, tires should still be serviceable (140 wear OEM lasted me 17k these pss are 300...) And it will still have oem warranty left.

I should hit that right about the time the '15 brz drops, and hopefully that means an STI.

Sorry for the bitching, but like I said...online venting is cheaper. I'm hitting the gym doing cardio hiit as I type this, too. Just really pissed as I wanted a fun, dependable rid for the next 6-8 years, and this car has **** the bed so hard.

Chuck33079 · 05-30-2013, 10:12 PM

Don't jump into the first run of a brz sti. I've made that mistake with a 02 wrx in late 2001 and an 04 sti in 2003. Both times I missed out on some serious improvements.

05-30-2013, 10:47 AM	#1 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29540	If it were my car, I'd double check every single torque value on the braking system and front suspension against the service manual. Tap on things with a rubber mallet and see if they move. Pull out the pads and see if the pistons move freely and completely retract into the calipers. You may find nothing is out of whack. You might find something the dealer missed. If everything checks out, scuff up the rotors and pads slightly, go get the directions for bedding pads off Stoptech's website and go do it again yourself. If all of that solves your problem, fantastic. If not, you've just eliminated another variable. Something is wrong with your specific car. Few people have had rotor issues, and those that had them solved it when they went to aftermarket pads and rotors. You've changed out pretty much everything but the calipers, master cylinder and ABS unit, and the problem still occurs. This suggests to me that the root cause is not a braking issue, and the warping of the rotors are a symptom of something else being wrong. That makes me think something gets out of line when the nose dives under braking. You've claimed that the rotors were previously toasted in a single stop. That's not normal at all. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

05-30-2013, 12:56 PM	#5 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29540	If you're not going to start troubleshooting the issue yourself, and you're unwilling to let another dealer take a crack at solving the issue then there's nothing that can be done. What's keeping you from cutting your losses and selling the car? I'd also like to point out that a good torque wrench isn't a specialty item. It's a tool any man should own. GaleForce likes this. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

05-30-2013, 05:27 PM	#7 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29540	Thanks for the input, but he's already replaced all of that with aftermarket parts. The issue persists, so we're trying to figure out what's really going on. You forgot these, so I brought extra ................................................ GaleForce likes this. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

05-30-2013, 08:30 PM	#8 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29540	Well, good luck with that. Hopefully the next one works better for you. ImportConvert likes this. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

05-30-2013, 09:48 PM	#11 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29540	Maybe you just got a bad one. Why not cut it loose and go with something cheap for a year or two? No sense paying out the *** for something you hate. It'll only be worth less later. Might be time for a beater for a while and bank the payments. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

05-30-2013, 09:38 PM	#10 (permalink)
ImportConvert A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: SWMO Posts: 4,454 Drives: 2019 CX5 GT Reserve Rep Power: 7628	I'm sorry to be a **, but nissan is taking me for $630/mo on a pile of ** worse than my 1980's mustang 5.0. Of course I'm going to be caustic.

05-30-2013, 10:01 PM	#13 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29540	Ouch. You're on the right track then. If you're upside down, just drive the ******* thing into the ground. A word of advice from a former multiple Subaru owner- dont buy the first year. Both times I did, and the second model year improvements were significant. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

05-30-2013, 10:12 PM	#15 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29540	Don't jump into the first run of a brz sti. I've made that mistake with a 02 wrx in late 2001 and an 04 sti in 2003. Both times I missed out on some serious improvements. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

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