What is needed to setup my suspension

2016 370z · 07-10-2017, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

No problem...tracking is expensive! If you are going to run the the same set of tires and rims on the street as you do on the the track you are going to burn through a bunch of tires. If your camber is going to be in the -3.0 range you are going to get some uneven wear. Get yourself a square setup on another set of rims, you can get a set of enkie's for around $1400 new and that way you can have a dedicated set of track tires. Also, except to spend between $3k to $7k if you want do it right. Remember your drive train is a big component in optimizing your suspension.

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Sounds good. As for the Enkei's are you referring to the rpf1's?

For now I'm just putting my foot in the water and I guess I don't need that extreme camber settings. Down the line I will look into more if I become a dedicated track junkie, but now I am just looking at maybe 2-3 sessions per year. I just want to be able to have the adjustability settings available so the car can run properly with coilovers.

2016 370z · 07-10-2017, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

What Rust said "Everything has to mate up!" I would say buy a Hotchkis front sway bar, get some better brake pads (yellow stuff), stainless steel brake lines and good brake fluid and head to the track and upgrade as you can. Also, if you have not done it get a 34 row oil cooler! Lost of stuff to run with the bulls!

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So far I have a cusco front sway bar. Pads, lines, and fluids will be coming soon. Oil cooler has been sitting in my garage for almost a year :'(

2016 370z · 07-10-2017, 07:03 PM

Thank you for all your input. I learned a lot in the past hour lol. I should have turned to this forum to learn sooner. I've been asking my friends who are mostly Subaru guys and they have been telling me different things.

Rusty · 07-10-2017, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

Perfect recommendation old tall wise one!

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I'm still good. At least I don't have to put a broom stick up my a$$ to push it out to take a leak yet.

Hotrodz · 07-10-2017, 07:07 PM

I'm no wear near an expert like my buddy Rusty and a bunch of others on here. Read the thread Rusty linked you as it has a bunch of great stuff. This was my first year tracking and I learned a ton by doing and tearing $hit up. It is a rush and I can't get enough right now. Good luck and keep asking questions!

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Rusty · 07-10-2017, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2016 370z

Thank you for all your input. I learned a lot in the past hour lol. I should have turned to this forum to learn sooner. I've been asking my friends who are mostly Subaru guys and they have been telling me different things.

Subi's need a different set-up because they are all wheel drive. What works on them, for the most part will not work on the Z. But the basic's are the same.

Rusty · 07-10-2017, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

I'm no wear near an expert like my buddy Rusty and a bunch of others on here. Read the thread Rusty linked you as it has a bunch of great stuff. This was my first year tracking and I learned a ton by doing and tearing $hit up. It is a rush and I can't get enough right now. Good luck and keep asking questions!

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I've been tracking my Nismo for about 5 years now. This rabbit hole that you are about to go down into get $$$$ the deeper you get. But it's fun as helll!

jchammond · 07-10-2017, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

I'm no wear near an expert like my buddy Rusty and a bunch of others on here. Read the thread Rusty linked you as it has a bunch of great stuff. This was my first year tracking and I learned a ton by doing and tearing $hit up. It is a rush and I can't get enough right now. Good luck and keep asking questions!

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Yeah & Don't forget you got more than 2x the factory RWHP/TQ than a stock Z!

Rusty · 07-10-2017, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jchammond

Yeah & Don't forget you got more than 2x the factory RWHP/TQ than a stock Z!

I might lose him on the straight. But I'll still pass him on the brakes.

jchammond · 07-10-2017, 07:19 PM

he's braking stuff while running all out in the marbles...

2016 370z · 07-10-2017, 07:21 PM

I do have a set of coilovers on the way (greddy x kw) so I still want to make sure I can get the allignment setup properly at the very least. On one the threads that was linked it said I will also need lower control arms for the front. Would it really be necessary for now? Or will I be able to survive with front and rear control arms + lockout eccentric?

This is exciting and expensive so I wanna just go in to explore this new realm without having my bank account punch me in the face overnight

Rusty · 07-10-2017, 07:30 PM

You'll need upper control arms, not lower for the front. Depending on how low you go with the new coil-overs. As to what is needed for the rear. You might need only toe bolts. But going farther. Camber arms.

MaysEffect · 07-10-2017, 07:55 PM

Have you tried a set of extremes on this car, or any car yet? Before you install any suspension piece, its best you explore the limits of grip in factory settings first.

There are several benefits to doing this even with the standard size tires, before going crazy with alignment changes and larger wheel/tire sizes.

For one. Most of the extremes have larger tread blocks, which not only establish a higher level of contact patch for the same size, but wear in a much more uniform fashion. With this you can clearly gauge how much and where the tires are wearing most. There is no point of adding additional camber if you can't accurately use all of the available rubber on standard sizes.

In motorcycle terms, you've probably heard this banter called "chicken strips" on the tires. Similar lack of wear lines can be established on normal car tires. gauging these wear lines give you an idea of how the camber is effecting tire contact patch and also how much steering input you are putting in and where in relations to corner loads and throttle modulation.

Another form of measurement you'd should start implementing immediately if you don't already, is measuring tire pressures and heat margins across the tires. A cheap harbor freight of homedepot infrared gun can gauge heat across the tire accurate enough to tell you how much heat you are balancing across the tread. In these summer conditions you may find it easy to go from a cold 35psi to hot 41 psi in a relatively short spirited run, but getting temps up in colder conditions is equally important.

For the sake of understanding what you are feeling, its good to also randomly test different tire pressures so you know what overinflated tires feel like compared to under inflated. The gas station air pump should be your new best friend.

You have several back roads i'm sure you take advantage of already. But instead of trying to go outright fast or pushing the limits. Push the limits in different ways. Form a solid pace and intentionally try to induce understeer and oversteer by playing around with your steering input speeds as well how early or how late you enter a corner with modulation of braking a acceleration. Measure the tires accordingly after each run. You may say this is stupid or unsafe, but this is the point of establishing a slower overall speed.

Practice makes perfect, build up the aggression gradually

Rusty · 07-10-2017, 08:08 PM

I started with a stock Z for the most part, and changed things as I got more experienced. Nothing beats face time behind the windshield.

Hotrodz · 07-10-2017, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

I might lose him on the straight. But I'll still pass him on the brakes.

You are probably right there getting better all the time but with so much power coming into a turn braking is tricky to early most of the time and yes the instructors or group four go fast go fast guys eat my lunch in the corners. I will get there...

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07-10-2017, 07:07 PM	#20 (permalink)
Hotrodz Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684384	I'm no wear near an expert like my buddy Rusty and a bunch of others on here. Read the thread Rusty linked you as it has a bunch of great stuff. This was my first year tracking and I learned a ton by doing and tearing $hit up. It is a rush and I can't get enough right now. Good luck and keep asking questions! Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk Rusty and jchammond like this. __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

07-10-2017, 07:19 PM	#25 (permalink)
jchammond A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: South Carolina Age: 57 Posts: 15,204 Drives: 13’ 370Z TS 7A/T Rep Power: 2684394	he's braking stuff while running all out in the marbles... __________________ MazWorx built long block \| FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 \| IPT built 7A/T http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html

07-10-2017, 07:30 PM	#27 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 34,868 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684436	You'll need upper control arms, not lower for the front. Depending on how low you go with the new coil-overs. As to what is needed for the rear. You might need only toe bolts. But going farther. Camber arms. 2016 370z likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

07-10-2017, 07:55 PM	#28 (permalink)
MaysEffect Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: SoCal Age: 31 Posts: 383 Drives: Infiniti FX35 Rep Power: 35	Have you tried a set of extremes on this car, or any car yet? Before you install any suspension piece, its best you explore the limits of grip in factory settings first. There are several benefits to doing this even with the standard size tires, before going crazy with alignment changes and larger wheel/tire sizes. For one. Most of the extremes have larger tread blocks, which not only establish a higher level of contact patch for the same size, but wear in a much more uniform fashion. With this you can clearly gauge how much and where the tires are wearing most. There is no point of adding additional camber if you can't accurately use all of the available rubber on standard sizes. In motorcycle terms, you've probably heard this banter called "chicken strips" on the tires. Similar lack of wear lines can be established on normal car tires. gauging these wear lines give you an idea of how the camber is effecting tire contact patch and also how much steering input you are putting in and where in relations to corner loads and throttle modulation. Another form of measurement you'd should start implementing immediately if you don't already, is measuring tire pressures and heat margins across the tires. A cheap harbor freight of homedepot infrared gun can gauge heat across the tire accurate enough to tell you how much heat you are balancing across the tread. In these summer conditions you may find it easy to go from a cold 35psi to hot 41 psi in a relatively short spirited run, but getting temps up in colder conditions is equally important. For the sake of understanding what you are feeling, its good to also randomly test different tire pressures so you know what overinflated tires feel like compared to under inflated. The gas station air pump should be your new best friend. You have several back roads i'm sure you take advantage of already. But instead of trying to go outright fast or pushing the limits. Push the limits in different ways. Form a solid pace and intentionally try to induce understeer and oversteer by playing around with your steering input speeds as well how early or how late you enter a corner with modulation of braking a acceleration. Measure the tires accordingly after each run. You may say this is stupid or unsafe, but this is the point of establishing a slower overall speed. Practice makes perfect, build up the aggression gradually Rusty, littlejuanito and 2016 370z like this. Last edited by MaysEffect; 07-10-2017 at 07:57 PM.

07-10-2017, 08:08 PM	#29 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 34,868 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684436	I started with a stock Z for the most part, and changed things as I got more experienced. Nothing beats face time behind the windshield. 2016 370z likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

07-10-2017, 07:03 PM	#18 (permalink)
2016 370z Base Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 101 Drives: 16 370z GM 6MT Rep Power: 8	Thank you for all your input. I learned a lot in the past hour lol. I should have turned to this forum to learn sooner. I've been asking my friends who are mostly Subaru guys and they have been telling me different things.

07-10-2017, 07:21 PM	#26 (permalink)
2016 370z Base Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 101 Drives: 16 370z GM 6MT Rep Power: 8	I do have a set of coilovers on the way (greddy x kw) so I still want to make sure I can get the allignment setup properly at the very least. On one the threads that was linked it said I will also need lower control arms for the front. Would it really be necessary for now? Or will I be able to survive with front and rear control arms + lockout eccentric? This is exciting and expensive so I wanna just go in to explore this new realm without having my bank account punch me in the face overnight

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