Lug Nuts - The definitive guide

SouthArk370Z

All but impossible to prevent totally but, with a little care, it can be minimized to the point that it becomes inconsequential.

No. Torque the nuts properly and loosening will not be a problem.

It is best not to mix-and-match materials, but, in The Real World, it doesn't make much difference for this application. Clean the threads well and, if using dissimilar metals, use a little anti-seize. Torque 'em down and you're good to go.

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wstar

Technically, anti-seize does change things for torque values. I have no idea how much in this particular case, but when you look at specs for *big* nuts (1"+) with torque specs, they're very specific about the conditions under which torque values are measured, and lubrication makes a difference. Even so, I'm not saying the anti-seize will make the nut come loose - it just may change the appropriate torque-wrench measurement value by some small amount.

On the nuts: I've used a few sets of the Muteki on this car (open-ended short ones on extended studs) without any issues, and they've stayed on and unbroken through lots and lots of tire/wheel/brake changes and track weekends. They do seem a little cheaper and thinner than some others (e.g. the Z1 ones, which I've also used successfully and seem a bit more stout), but in my experience they're not unreliable. Then again, I'm also pretty proactive about throwing new studs + lugs on the car about once a year just in case given how often I dismount+remount wheels on this car.

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Rusty

For most fasteners. There is a dry torque spec. and a wet torque spec. The honda common service manual for motorcycles has a excellent chapter on it.
As for using anti-seize on lug nut threads. Use it. It won't hurt. If the nuts are torqued. They won't come off. Just remember to check the lug nuts after about a 100 miles after having installed the tires back on the car.

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Waiz

Not sure how you can have such an informative thread then not mention why you wouldn't run Muteki's? Their steel line is more than capable and I have been running them for 2 years without issue as have several others

You should also add McGard and Gorilla lug nuts to your thread, plenty of people run either and are a good option instead of paying $200 on a set of JDM lugs that don't offer you anyting else more than a fashion statement

You should also mention that the maxium torque spec for our lugs is 80 ft/lb and a torque wrench should always be used

JARblue

IIRC, the manual says 80-90 ft/lb. I usually go for 85, and I always tell the tire guys (only people other than me who remove my wheels) to do 85 with a torque wrench and not use an impact driver.

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Waiz

I always do 80 and then I check them again after 100 miles or so of driving

kenchan

for steel lugs i do 85, but for aluminum ones 80.

i check after driving a few miles. then re-torque however many times as needed. usually 2-3 times, but sometimes could take as much as 5-6 re-torques.

no wonder dealers zip it up with their impacts to like 100lbs.

SouthArk370Z

Yes. There are different torque specs for dry and oiled fasteners. On larger fasteners and those with a lot of stretch (torque is just an indirect measure of bolt stretch), the difference can be significant. For smaller fasteners and those that aren't stretched very much, the difference is ignorable.

Even if the difference was enough to matter, how does that warrant an unequivocal "DO NOT put anti-sieze on your lug nuts." (not to mention the big font)? At most, you just adjust your torque setting.

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wstar

Really? I generally go 80 for the initial install and then re-torque at 85 after an initial test drive. After that I check them at 85 pretty regularly (esp during a track weekend), but it's rare any of them move at 85 again. Sometimes 1-2 move a little before clicking on the 2nd re-torque, but never more than that. This is cone-type aftermarkets on aftermarket wheels, though, maybe that makes a difference.

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JARblue

I torque the stock lugs on stock rims to 85 every time and have pretty much the same experience as you seem to have with the aftermarket ones (albeit minus the track time stress). I should check them more often, but I don't take the wheels off too often and they are always fine. As it is, I've only had a couple of lugs between all four wheels ever need tightening on the 2nd re-torque - after that they are always fine.

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Waiz

I don't even think it makes a difference between 80 and 85, both do the job effectively to tighten the lugs down correctly

Maybe if you go in the 100's but 80 or 85 makes no real difference between the two

Rusty

80 or 85. That's splittin' hairs. LOL

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fairlady_z34

its crazy how you guys talk torque numbers like that. all these years all i have been using is these 16inch pythons arms of mine lol. havent had any issue in the last 10 to 12years

to the op: would still like to know why to not use muteki?? i just bought a set and currently running them for a couple of hundred miles now, seems pretty good quality to me

kenchan

my snapon torque wrench says otherwise.

aluminum ones break if overtorqued. they are very fragile vs steel lugs.

SouthArk370Z

+1. Considering all the variables involved (condition of fasteners, accuracy/repeatability of wrench, &c), +/- 5 lb-ft isn't a big deal. Get them as close to spec as you can but don't be obsessive about it. Getting them even is important; be consistent.

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