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Spacers on stock Z?

That sucks man. Thanks for trying though. At least now everyone knows that they will have to go with extended studs and conventional spacers to push the stockers out a

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Old 02-05-2009, 08:26 PM   #31 (permalink)
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That sucks man. Thanks for trying though. At least now everyone knows that they will have to go with extended studs and conventional spacers to push the stockers out a bit.
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Old 02-05-2009, 09:29 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Aaaaw man, sorry to hear you went through the trouble. Yeah I agree, return the spacers. At least we all know now not to get that kind.

Thanks for trying.
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Old 02-06-2009, 05:04 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Sorry it didn't work out, I gave you some rep points though

Question, do you think if the spacers were 20mm that it would have worked?
Maybe less of the stock lug sticking out of the spacer.

Also, from your experience, do you think we could install a standard 5mm or 8mm spacer and not have to put longer studs in, would there be enough of the stock threads ??
Something like this: http://www.futrellautowerks.com/HR-D...r-Set-P49.aspx

Thanks ;-)

Braden
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Old 02-06-2009, 09:57 AM   #34 (permalink)
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I don't think 20mm spacers would have worked, because the length of the nubs sticking out exceed 5mm. It was closer to a full cm, so at a minimum you'd need 25mm spacers to even have a shot at the nubs not protruding. But at 25mm, it'd probably look bizarre -- what I call the 'skateboard effect'. Regarding the 5-8mm spacers, I would think that there'd still be enough thread. The question is whether or not that's enough to make a satisfactory difference (I guess there's only one way to find out, right?). I think as long as you're able to properly torque the lug nuts down (the manual spec says 80 ft-lbs.), you'll be okay. But use your judgment. Put at least one lug nut back on by hand to get a sense of how much thread you're working with. And I'd also recommend re-checking the torque on them after driving around for, say, 50 miles to make sure they didn't start to back out on their own. In fact, if you decide to do this, I'd recommend that you torque the lug nuts to 90 ft-lbs., just for a little extra insurance.
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Old 02-06-2009, 10:27 AM   #35 (permalink)
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thanks for the info!

I may try the H&R DRS spacers. I will probably go with the 5mm on each side on the rear only because I only want the wheels to stick out a little more.

These spacers are hubcentric and you replace the existing wheel studs with longer ones, so the spacer is just in between instead of the spacer attached to hub and wheel attached to spacer.

http://store.allsprings.com/shared/S...llsprings&All=

If the link does not take you directly there go to nissan 350Z and then to wheel spacers and then to the DRS version.
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Old 02-07-2009, 04:15 PM   #36 (permalink)
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^^ Cool...can't wait to see the outcome.
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:56 PM   #37 (permalink)
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My buddy had that problem on his car(non 370Z) he order the ones without the studs and got extended studs.

I wanted to see it done with the sport wheels. I think those wheels fit the car great. Thanks for trying.

Chris
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:22 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Any updates on this topic? Has anyone successfully done it yet?
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Old 02-24-2009, 12:57 PM   #39 (permalink)
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it's your bad for not going with H&R's btw. just plug those in, one problem you might run into is the stock bolts might be too short, so buy those as well from H&R. spacers arent really rocket science!

After all im not a fan of spacers over 15 mm's. just wont look as great. but definitely beat the stock tucked-in look
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Old 02-24-2009, 05:04 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I deliberately didn't go with H&R because I don't want to put in extended studs and then have studs that are too long, should I decide to remove the spacers for some reason. That's not my bad, that's my choice.
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:05 AM   #41 (permalink)
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If you haven't had the pleasure of banging out and then inserting 20 studs you just don't know what you are missing.
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Old 03-07-2009, 12:31 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alan93rsa View Post
If you haven't had the pleasure of banging out and then inserting 20 studs you just don't know what you are missing.
I was thinking of doing the rears yesterday, but the people at Ichiba wouldn't let me pick up at will call, so now I'm having second thoughts.

Is it really that difficult? Looks like it might be a little easier with the stud removal tool.

Here a link to the detailed instructions: How To
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:20 PM   #43 (permalink)
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I'd rather use the tool made for removing the studs if possible. The amount of beating you have to do to get the studs out can't be good for the bearings and races. It's also a good idea to have a couple of open lug nuts to pull the new studs in with. I usually toast at lest 2 nuts putting in a set of 20 studs.
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Old 03-08-2009, 04:02 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Semtex if you went with option of grinding wheels or have someone mill it out properly to keep it pretty even how much material or how deep to clear the nubs?
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Old 03-08-2009, 05:00 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alan93rsa View Post
I'd rather use the tool made for removing the studs if possible. The amount of beating you have to do to get the studs out can't be good for the bearings and races. It's also a good idea to have a couple of open lug nuts to pull the new studs in with. I usually toast at lest 2 nuts putting in a set of 20 studs.
Any thoughts on where I can get that tool?? I've gone to a couple auto parts stores in my area, but no luck.
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