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if you qualify as a dealer the cost is ~1500-1600 plus hardware and license per car. There is no end-user version of the software, sorry
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#2 (permalink) |
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Are all ECUs supported at this point or will some of us need to do a ROM dump so it can be sent off to EcuTek and added to their running list of supported ECUs?
And does your calibration come ready to go or do we do some data logs and send them back to you for fine tuning to end up with fully tuned, car specific ROM? |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Nice thing is, if we run into one, the gents at EcuTek are very quick to jump on it and port out an update. Generally I see a unknown file updated within 12 hours. So worst case, we have to get you to dump the file, send it to us, then within 12-24 hours you have your "base" calibration back from us. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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What would the cost be for the license and cable, without any tuning? I would prefer to have that handled by someone local rather than by email.
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#5 (permalink) |
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The cable is around $300 (probably a hair more when not purchased in a the package deal). Since whoever you have do the tune locally will have to have the EcuTek software, I would expect they will be able to get you a license. If they can't get you a license, I think it's unlikely they will have the necessary software to perform your tune.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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We are trying to keep this to qualified shops. No I'm not being snobbish, but you wouldn't take your baby to just anyone would you? We would prefer to work with established shops, with qualified tuners for two reasons; to protect the integrity of the product, and to expand the knowledge base on this platform. Let me explain that a bit better; First, as a Master tuner, I am answerable to not only you, as the end customer, but to EcuTek as well. So if we hand out the software to JimBob down at the gas station and he proceeds to talk someone into a tune, and melts a piston or two, guess who gets the call from the pissed customer? Second, and I know this might be a shock to hear a tuner admit this, but we don't know everything there is to know about this platform. There are guys out there with a deeper knowledge of the 370, and that's the truth. I'm damn good at what I do, that's why I'm one of a very select group of "master" tuners, but the simple fact is I learn something new EVERY day. We like to work with shops that we can learn from, and in turn they learn from us. This is what I mean when I refer to expanding the knowledge base I you happen to have a shop in mind, let me know, I'm happy to work with any qualified shop in the world. We could talk to them directly, and show them the software. Hell you might even get a free calibration from them for bringing it to their attention! |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Rather than type out a novel here, I'll just get to the point. I'm looking for a total drive-out cost to come to your shop, dyno tune it, touch it up on the street and go home with the cable. I'll be scheduling it right after I see that Ecutek has added the boost control functionality to the software.
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#8 (permalink) | |
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#9 (permalink) |
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If that's the case, what would the total cost be to come out and have the tune done in person?
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#10 (permalink) |
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You still pay for the license and his tune (the $450 package), but you could probably just pay Joe for a few hours of street tuning instead of paying $300 for the cable. I'm not sure what his hourly rate is, and I'm not sure if his prices are different for NA vs FI (I just know if you already have NA tune, there is a small fee to update the tune if you go FI). I would assume that fine tuning on a dyno would be additional.
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#11 (permalink) |
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A good tune needs to include both dyno and street tuning, since there's so much more to it than just tuning wot on the dyno. I'm just trying to get an idea of the total cash outlay.
Edit now that I'm not trying to type on my phone- I'm not a huge fan of tuning WOT/ full bore pulls on the street. That's more for on/off throttle, part throttle, etc. I'd prefer to have the high speed stuff done on a dyno. Plus, I want all the printouts- power, boost/afr, etc. The butt dyno is often a liar. If I'm going to drop the coin to switch software, I'd like to be able to look at it and say "this is X more power at Y rpm".
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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent Last edited by Chuck33079; 06-25-2013 at 08:51 AM. |
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#12 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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#13 (permalink) | |
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I would much rather give up 1-2% on the top end to have a well rounded car that has factory like transitions. Now all that said, you CAN get 95-96% of everything available with drive cycle tuning and data logs, BEFORE you ever strap the car to a chassis dyno. And that's coming from a guy that owns two 50K$ dynos. I enjoy working on the dyno, and have 25+ years in this business. But not everyone wants or needs the last 4-5% that you get from the extra money spent on the rollers. Those of you that have blood sweat and cubic dollars in your car, yes I understand. Trust me I understand. My Mazda 6 World Challenge car spends about 1/3 of its life on the dyno trying new stuff |
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#14 (permalink) |
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I'm trying to avoid doing too much running around on a base tune since it's FI. There's a lot more to go wrong. In the past when I've had other vehicles tuned, we started on the dyno to get it mostly dialed in, and then moved it to the street for polishing.
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