12-16-2013, 10:49 PM
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#34 (permalink)
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 4,024
Drives: too slow
Rep Power: 3595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x10370zx
That's good to hear. I had a sneaking suspicion the 25 would be plenty, but in another thread I started specific to this topic several gave me the "bigger is better" answer and recommended the 34. However... sounds like the 25 wide would be perfect for my application. I'm planning to log some track time starting in 2014 (maybe 3-4 times per year) and I'm a novice so it won't be pushed to the absolute limit.
The only reason I'm adding the cooler is to try the track this year and I want to make sure that I do everything right so my car (and I) are safe. During regular driving I've never had a temp issue (stays pegged on 220 on 100+ degree days, never higher).
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Well, as you push it more it will become a necessity, but you *could* do your first weekend without it safely. It just means you'll have to back off the revs halfway through your sessions and not push as hard. Either way you're not gonna destroy the car, you're just going to lose some hard driving time. By the time you get to caring about the difference in the various larger sizes, the cost of switching out to a different Setrab core will be pretty marginal compared to everything else you're throwing at this hobby 
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My car is a DD, so when you say "longer to heat up" what kind of time are we talking? I do a lot of very short trips because everything is close to my house < 5 mins. How well does the car heat up with the cooler completely blocked? Is it comparable to stock or does it still take a fair bit of time to warm up? Sounds like I'd probably be ok to keep the cooler blocked off all the time except for track days because of all of my short trips.
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Yeah short-tripping in the cooler months, you'll need the blockoff plate and you'll still need a little warmup time. Who knows in your particular situation and the weather variance, but you can expect something like 3-ish minutes idling in the driveway, then just take it easy on the throttle for the first 10 minutes or so on the road and by then the gauge should be up around 160 and climbing. Having an oil pressure gauge installed makes it easier - I use that during the warmup driving to know how hard I can push the revs/throttle as it warms (basically aim for staying under ~80-90 psi, at the ~100psi mark it opens the pressure bypass).
On those 5 minute trips if you're starting from dead-overnight-cold, you're probably looking at 2-3 minutes idle and then just staying light on the throttle for the whole trip. It's not ideal, but it is what it is. If you've already driven the car in the past couple of hours, it retains a fair amount of heat in the block though and warmup goes much faster. In the hot months it's really not much of an issue at all, and you might partially or completely unblock it on the street even.
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