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Track Day Best Practices - MUST READ

The 370Z has crap for brake cooling. Use the better higher boiling point fluids and don't skimp here. The same brakes on the G37 have way less issues than we

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Old 09-05-2012, 08:37 AM   #1 (permalink)
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The 370Z has crap for brake cooling. Use the better higher boiling point fluids and don't skimp here.

The same brakes on the G37 have way less issues than we have at the track, so its all in the cooling.
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:33 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I've not had problems using ATE brake fluid... but I usually flush the Friday before. Worst part about them is that it comes in a 1L can. Don't think you can save the extra more than few days! :P

XP8 & XP10s are very quiet until you wear off the bedded pad material... I have been swapping to bobcats when I change tires.
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Old 09-05-2012, 04:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Helpful Check list. Usually last minute getting ready so put this list togehter to make sure I leave home with everything I need. I added some track stuff/ "day of" as it might be helpful to first timer. (PDF & Word if you wnat to custom)
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File Type: pdf Track 370Z checklist A-Z.pdf (11.5 KB, 291 views)
File Type: doc Track 370Z checklist A-Z.doc (27.0 KB, 93 views)
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Old 09-24-2017, 12:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zxces50 View Post
Helpful Check list. Usually last minute getting ready so put this list togehter to make sure I leave home with everything I need. I added some track stuff/ "day of" as it might be helpful to first timer. (PDF & Word if you wnat to custom)
Thanks for sharing!
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Old 09-05-2012, 04:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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nice^
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Nice PDF. I'd suggest recommending a fuller tank though (I've been topping up every other session, I only get like 2-3 dots down between refills), and putting the tire pressure check further up the list (e.g. pop hood if you want first, then go straight for the tires before they cool off, then worry about other things). I don't think I'd roll out on the stock fuel system with even 3/4 tank, risky for fuel cut.
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Agree - fuel is tricky and more is better. Depends on track config if can get a couple dots below 3/4. Was at Pocono this past weekend and had problems on super speedway section with cutout but was at 2/3 tank - was last session of day (already filled it twice) and decided to just pit and call it a day. But on other tracks have gotten away with two sessions before top off
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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OP, your valve stem caps won't melt if you just take them off before racing.
Also, I know the Motul660 is great fluid, but had a question. Is the AP racing 5.1 fluid garbage for the track?
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:58 PM   #9 (permalink)
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OP, your valve stem caps won't melt if you just take them off before racing.
Also, I know the Motul660 is great fluid, but had a question. Is the AP racing 5.1 fluid garbage for the track?
I use AP Racing's fluid. It's worked just as well for me as the Motul RBF600.
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The e-brake on the Z is a drum type that expands outward inside the hubs. It won't mess with your calipers or rotors if you pull it after run sessions.

I've tracked with both ATE super blue and RBF600. I prefer the RBF600 because the superblue stains everything. But I haven't boiled the brakes with either one. If you're having lots of issues with boiling your fluid despite having changed the fluid and pads, evaluate your braking technique. If you 'street brake' and drag the brakes to gradually slow down, you'll overheat them. Work on 'track braking' which is rolling smoothly and quickly into 100% braking force (or close to 100%) and then rolling back off as you're turning in. Less overall time on the brakes = more time for them to be cooling for the same kinetic energy dissipated.
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The e-brake on the Z is a drum type that expands outward inside the hubs. It won't mess with your calipers or rotors if you pull it after run sessions.
But they can melt in place and sieze, that's the big concern. If your rear brakes are super hot and you pull that handle and park it while it cools, you could find your parking brake shoes glued/melted to the drum.
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Old 09-07-2012, 04:06 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
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But they can melt in place and sieze, that's the big concern. If your rear brakes are super hot and you pull that handle and park it while it cools, you could find your parking brake shoes glued/melted to the drum.
LOL...mine doesn't hold my car well anyway so I'm not concerned!
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Consider adding a wheel chock to your gear/tool bag. I have a piece of 40mm square timber that is 250mm long that lives in the plastic box that contains spare brakefluid, pads, some tools etc .... and if the pit area is on a slight slope, I chock the car so I don't need to use the parking brake.

I also carry a couple of spare "P" clips that secure the dowel pins that retain the pads (on the Akebono calipers). I bent one once and snapped it trying to straighten it and had to fabricate a retainer using some wire I had in the bottom of my bits and pieces box. Is a lot simpler when you have the proper part.
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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If you are going to be pumping gas off the stupid red bottles, you need to get yourself one of these

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Old 09-07-2012, 07:35 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Good thread guys keep the info coming.
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