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-   -   Track Day Best Practices - MUST READ (http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/60123-track-day-best-practices-must-read.html)

osbornsm 09-04-2012 10:38 AM

Track Day Best Practices - MUST READ
 
For any of you who have questions about what to do for your first HPDE / Track Day, please read the following:
----------------------------------------------------------
Brakes
  • The OEM pads will technically function for a track day... but for the love of god just buy Carbotech pads from Z1 Motorsports.
  • Recommendation:
    • Front: Carbotech XP10
    • Rear: Carbotech XP8
  • NOTE: I ran with Front XP8 pads... the OEM Rear pads were down to the backing plate after 1/2 day of lapping. I.E. get rear track pads.
----------------------------------------------------------
Brake Fluid
  • You must Must MUST, flush your entire brake system with nothing other than Motul RBF600 brake fluid.
  • MISTAKE: I used Superblue fluid and it boiled on my 1st track day (pedal to the floor / scared to death / don't use it!!!)
----------------------------------------------------------
Tires
  • The OEM tires are great for beginner / intermediate track drivers.
  • Start all 4 tires at approx ~ 32 psi (cold temp)
  • Hot temperature, measured when JUST off a session, should be closer to 38 psi
----------------------------------------------------------
Suspension
  • It ain't broken... don't fix it.
  • The OEM suspension is FINE unless you plan on ONLY tracking your car
  • You do not need extra camber in the front or rear.
  • My tires wore evenly with the stock alignment, not to mention that they didn't wear that much. GO Bridgestones!
----------------------------------------------------------
Interior
  • Remove anything that isn't bolted down. Spare tire, rear tools, floor mats, goodies from center console and glove box, EVERYTHING.
----------------------------------------------------------
Engine
  • An oil cooler is REQUIRED, unless you want to try out limp-mode. My 25 row Z1 oil cooler worked perfectly and I didn't "hold back" at all when on the track. 20 min sessions Ambient temp = 80f Max Oil Temp = 240f
----------------------------------------------------------
After EACH run
  1. Park the car
    • Don't set the parking brake.
    • The brake pads will fuse themselves to a hot rotor
    • Don't set the parking brake.
  2. Pop the hood (helps engine cool down)
  3. Check tire pressures
    • Tire Pressure can increase +10psi just from the heat.
    • Make sure the tire pressure is measured RIGHT after you park the car for the most accurate reading.
    • Wear gloves when checking tire pressures, my valve stem cap melted a little from the brake heat. H O T.
    • I tried to keep a max pressure of 40psi.
    • Others: feel free to chime in here for ideal hot pressures.
  4. Fill up your gas tank after each run.
    • YES, after each one.
    • You will get fuel starvation in right hand turns otherwise.
----------------------------------------------------------

Wear Items to inspect from track duty

Brake Pads
- Q: Do I have enough brake pad for this track day?
- A: If the backing plate of the brake pad is "thicker" than the remaining pad material = Buy new brake pads.
  • Wheels studs - mine (ARP) are lifed @ 2 years .. wheel nuts at the same time - I don't use ali nuts - if you do, they need to be replaced every "n" times they are torqued where N is ~20-30
  • Coolant hoses are replaced @ 3 years
  • Calipers ought not need replacement, but certainly service them with replacement seal kit and new pistons.
  • You should have braided lines already, replace if the braiding has fretted or appears worn/frayed
  • Check backlash in the diff - may need to replace the crushable spacer - if so, do pinion and carrier bearings plus seals as well
  • Check state of CV joints in rear axles - also splines into drive flange/rear hub
  • Check state of front and rear wheel bearings
  • Check state of ball joints in front suspension
  • Check steering tie rod ends
  • Check steering rack mounts - they have been known to develop cracks especially if you like "yumping" kerbs
  • Check state of all suspension bushes - if you have replacement bushes (SPL etc), check for wear
  • Check state of serpentine belt/accessory drive belts
  • Check wheels "carefully" for cracks against the hub/centre and where spokes join the wheel barrel, and/or rim edge damage
  • Change all fluids (brake, clutch, engine, gearbox and diff)


Your thoughts are welcome, and will be incorporated into this thread, should i find them worthy :-)

supunna_picta 09-04-2012 10:45 AM

Great post for first-timer track tips. Can't express enough on the brake fluid as that happened to me this last Friday but luckily I was in the pits when the brake pedal hit the floor, not on the track.

I've never had a problem with fuel starvation however, I'm guessing that's largely dependent on track formation and car setup (i.e. with stock tires/suspension I don't get enough G's on our tracks to encounter it).

brucelidat 09-04-2012 12:24 PM

How noisy/dusty are xp8s for daily driving?

Jamielle@FP 09-04-2012 12:30 PM

Thats a really good post, another great brake fluid is Torque RT700.

1st 09-04-2012 12:41 PM

Awesome info man.

anthonyy 09-04-2012 12:55 PM

Great post. This should be stickied in the Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip section.

robones 09-04-2012 01:41 PM

Great great write up man! Just what people should look out for. Great advice on the breaks specially. This is so important and will keep you safe while enjoying your hobby.

You should add in the "after each run section" Keep your car on for 10-15 minutes to bring back down all fluid temperatures back to normal operating temp before turning off
ignition.

B&W_Evader 09-04-2012 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brucelidat (Post 1901058)
How noisy/dusty are xp8s for daily driving?

Expect 5-7x the dust you get with the stock pads.

Little bit of noise after 3k at really light breaking at traffic lights. Not bad enough to turn heads if you try to keep them quiet.

martin82 09-04-2012 03:20 PM

dont forget the clutch fluid you will boil that too, just use the same fluid u upgrade with the brakes and should be all good! If you track with synchro rev on you will eventually boil it WAY sooner.

wstar 09-04-2012 03:57 PM

ATE Gold and Superblue (just color difference) should work as well. I see lots of guys using it in other vehicles at the track without issue, maybe you had a one-off problem there?

I haven't personally put it in mine yet, but I was planning to try it on my next flush during October. Been running RBF600 so far without issue, but I like the idea of being able to swap colors on flush. I guess I'll report back for sure in Nov :)

cossie1600 09-04-2012 04:09 PM

ate is garbage. go search on their failure rate

martin82 09-04-2012 04:34 PM

I use motul 660 with upgrade SS brake lines...

wstar 09-04-2012 04:38 PM

Google searching didn't seem like it turned up an inordinate number of complaints, but I'll take your word for it :) Some bad traffic, but I can find complaints about anything you can imagine heh.

Anyone run Castrol SRF in these cars yet? Another option, but even pricier than the RBF600 I'm used to (by about +50%).

GrooveStyle 09-04-2012 07:12 PM

This is a really sweet thread, thanks for posting!

Snakes709 09-04-2012 07:14 PM

Just adding my tips in which i think are the most important ones for first timers

-Dont go with a piss pour attitude, this includes but not limited to... showing off, eager to beat a driver/car, thinking you know how to race because you blast around turns on the steets and so on...

-If avalible, get a instructor to go with you for your first session

-be safe, make smart decisions and have fun.

As for the topic on brake fluid. My buddy boiled his oem fluid in his Evo, i didnt on my first time with my car because i wasnt pushing it hard at all. I switched to Motul RBF 600 my second time out with my 431hp setup and good thing as well because i beat the **** out of my brakes. My poor red brembo calibers are now purple.


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