Track Day Best Practices - MUST READ

spearfish25 · 09-06-2012, 09:07 PM

The e-brake on the Z is a drum type that expands outward inside the hubs. It won't mess with your calipers or rotors if you pull it after run sessions.

I've tracked with both ATE super blue and RBF600. I prefer the RBF600 because the superblue stains everything. But I haven't boiled the brakes with either one. If you're having lots of issues with boiling your fluid despite having changed the fluid and pads, evaluate your braking technique. If you 'street brake' and drag the brakes to gradually slow down, you'll overheat them. Work on 'track braking' which is rolling smoothly and quickly into 100% braking force (or close to 100%) and then rolling back off as you're turning in. Less overall time on the brakes = more time for them to be cooling for the same kinetic energy dissipated.

wstar · 09-06-2012, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25

The e-brake on the Z is a drum type that expands outward inside the hubs. It won't mess with your calipers or rotors if you pull it after run sessions.

But they can melt in place and sieze, that's the big concern. If your rear brakes are super hot and you pull that handle and park it while it cools, you could find your parking brake shoes glued/melted to the drum.

spearfish25 · 09-07-2012, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

But they can melt in place and sieze, that's the big concern. If your rear brakes are super hot and you pull that handle and park it while it cools, you could find your parking brake shoes glued/melted to the drum.

LOL...mine doesn't hold my car well anyway so I'm not concerned!

09-06-2012, 09:07 PM	#1 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1858	The e-brake on the Z is a drum type that expands outward inside the hubs. It won't mess with your calipers or rotors if you pull it after run sessions. I've tracked with both ATE super blue and RBF600. I prefer the RBF600 because the superblue stains everything. But I haven't boiled the brakes with either one. If you're having lots of issues with boiling your fluid despite having changed the fluid and pads, evaluate your braking technique. If you 'street brake' and drag the brakes to gradually slow down, you'll overheat them. Work on 'track braking' which is rolling smoothly and quickly into 100% braking force (or close to 100%) and then rolling back off as you're turning in. Less overall time on the brakes = more time for them to be cooling for the same kinetic energy dissipated. JARblue and chknhawk like this. __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

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