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Originally Posted by bbenj10 Can I run with just the factory oil cooler on the 2014 model? I'm not sure how effective it is, but if I'm not pushing it

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Old 08-27-2014, 07:28 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bbenj10 View Post
Can I run with just the factory oil cooler on the 2014 model? I'm not sure how effective it is, but if I'm not pushing it to 10 on the track and ambient temps are low (60s), I should be okay right?
Depends like said. A properly vented hood will only help!
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:19 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I did not see what was looking for with the obligatory search...

Question: (I've run a few setups with brakes at the track but am still a bit of a tech noob.)

I'll be changing my pads from hawk ceramics (which I run for DD) to hawk plus pads for my track day this week.

1. Do I need to "resurface" my rotors when I change my pads and how do I do it... (a bit of light sanding??) Or can I just swap and do a few quick "pad bedding" maneuvers to get my pads ready to run?

2. It's been about 6 months since my last fluid bleed. I have a few bottles of RBF 600 on hand. How do I know when I've bled out all the old fluid and have new dry fluid all the way through the lines? (I hear new dry fluid is a good safety tip to avoid boil off/fade)

I could have some brake shop do this stuff for me, but I'd actually like to start doing it at the track between heats (if i notice my pads wearing down on track weekends) and be able to swap my pads at home. (before and after track days.)
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Old 08-30-2014, 01:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'll be changing my pads from hawk ceramics (which I run for DD) to hawk plus pads for my track day this week.

1. Do I need to "resurface" my rotors when I change my pads and how do I do it... (a bit of light sanding??) Or can I just swap and do a few quick "pad bedding" maneuvers to get my pads ready to run?
You probably don't need to muck with the rotors. Technically it would be more-ideal to kill the previous transfer layer first, but honestly you're more likely to do harm than good trying in many cases. Definitely don't have a shop put them on a lathe. If you do decide to try it, just scrub the surfaces with garnet paper (not sand paper), ~200 grit.

Bedding the new pads will be important. The mfg will have directions for how to do it, and with HP+ you can definitely do it on the street before you get to the event.

Quote:
2. It's been about 6 months since my last fluid bleed. I have a few bottles of RBF 600 on hand. How do I know when I've bled out all the old fluid and have new dry fluid all the way through the lines? (I hear new dry fluid is a good safety tip to avoid boil off/fade)
If you fully bled the fluid 6 months ago, you'd probably be ok to just bleed the calipers this time around. If you really want to flush the whole thing, just guestimate and use about a bottle per corner as you bleed the calipers (more in the rear than the front; longer lines). If the fluid's truly aged, you'll see the color change from darker to lighter when you start pumping out new fluid.

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I could have some brake shop do this stuff for me, but I'd actually like to start doing it at the track between heats (if i notice my pads wearing down on track weekends) and be able to swap my pads at home. (before and after track days.)
Swapping pads on our cars is relatively easy. Doing it yourself is always better if you can, because nobody cares about your car more than you do (especially not some random dude at a brake shop).
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Old 08-30-2014, 01:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Just do it yourself, buy a one man bleeder and spend $100 on tools to make job faster. With the hp+, you will be changing rotors soon anyway

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Old 08-30-2014, 07:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Gosh I hope not! I've got the 2 piece floating rotors from z1. Rebuilding them seems like a PITA. I'll definately try to cool them well before parking to minimize warp. I'd like to get at least a year out of them.
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Old 09-01-2014, 02:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If your going to be using real track only pads that will be rock hard when cold then use them with repeated stops at slow speed to scrape the transfer layer off from your street pads. Follow that by bedding your track pads.

Once done at the track do the same thing to scrap the transfer layer off again with cold racing pads then put your street pads back in and bed them.

Running real track only pads while cold is pretty much the same as using a lathe on your rotors, one of the many reasons you should not daily drive with real track pads.
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Old 09-01-2014, 03:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Old 09-01-2014, 03:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Awesome advice. Track only pads only on the track though
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Don't be this guy please, my buddy is driving his z06 at an Extreme Speed hpde day, see what happened https://m.facebook.com/story.php?sto...909&id=6815164
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Don't be this guy please, my buddy is driving his z06 at an Extreme Speed hpde day, see what happened https://m.facebook.com/story.php?sto...909&id=6815164
Can't see it. It's private.
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Old 09-02-2014, 07:48 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Can't see it. It's private.
same here cant see it....
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Old 09-02-2014, 01:07 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Can't see it. It's private.
Stop looking at his Privates.
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:01 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Sounds like a cool story though. lol
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Old 09-24-2014, 06:14 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Pad update. Hawk+ amazing on track borderline undrivable on streets (very grabby, not to mention dusty and loud lol). Ceramics going back in till spring (track season)
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Old 09-24-2014, 09:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Speaking of Hawk, I've been pretty impressed with their DTC-series pads so far. With DTC-70 front and DTC-60 rear, the rear bias is a little high leading to a bit of ice-mode tendency, but it's not horrible. Aside from that: they bedded well and they've held up well, they feel pretty good under modulation, and they're not over-grabby. DTC-70/30 or 60/30 might be the ticket for those pads.
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