Fyi

Tedmeister · 08-01-2021, 09:49 AM

In getting everything ready to drill and tap the port, I finally was able to
get a good view at the port from above and saw that the port is actually
cracked. When I had my original failure at the track I tried to finish my track day by just putting the factory sensor back in and doing without the aftermarket gauge. The factory sensor leaked when I tested it, so I just
packed up the car. The impact of hitting a curb must have not only cracked the brass connector, but also cracked the port itself.
Now the fun begins to replace the upper oil pan. I can't believe Z1 sold me this setup. The Autometer sensor seems larger than some of the others I have seen guys use on this forum.

THE BULL · 08-02-2021, 11:17 AM

These types of sensor do suck especially since a smaller 3 pin sensor with the right gauge works just fine.

The issue is the BSP thread requires an adapter which puts even more strain on the hole.

I knew this prior to installing my gauge and since I did not want to use an adapter nor needed the OEM sensor now that I had a full sweeping gauge I took the cringy approach to rethread from BSP to NPT.

Standard tapping and rethreading with grease to help pick up the shavings, lastly I disconnected the ignition and cranked it a couple of times so that oil pressure would clean the rest of the threads.

Worked wonderfully, no issues.

Tedmeister · 08-03-2021, 04:22 AM

I'll tap into the oil cooler line with an adapter. I would be too scared to introduce metal into the block by tapping the factory sensor location.
Too bad there aren't any other ports in the block.

BettyZ · 08-03-2021, 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tedmeister

I'll tap into the oil cooler line with an adapter. I would be too scared to introduce metal into the block by tapping the factory sensor location.
Too bad there aren't any other ports in the block.

I'm looking at running a tap into the thermostatic oil plate. For my turbo oil feed line. The janky nature of having a tee running off the oil pressure switch, attached to another tee for aftermarket oil pressure sensor and oil feed filter, and then the fitting for the feed line, is worrisome.

Tedmeister · 08-29-2021, 08:01 PM

Finally got everything back together. It was a big pain in the rear to get
the upper oil pan out and the replacement one in. I ended up lifting the engine
high enough to pull it out over the suspension. Spent the money on AEM temp and pressure sensor and gauges. Installed the pressure sensor, which is a lot
smaller than the Autometer sensor, with an AN adapter to the oil cooler.
So now I have very precise temp and pressure readings.
I drove the car around the neighborhood and had a hard time getting the temps
up to good operating temp. Pressure was as high as 120 psi with the temp slowly creeping up. Had to keep revs above 3000 to keep heating the oil.
My concern is that at the track the highest temps I saw was 210 in the oil pan.
From there the oil goes through the cooler before being pumped through the engine. Does that mean the oil is only 180 to 190 as it enters the engine?
That is just into the minimum temp for elevating the revs above the low range.
I do not have a thermostatic adapter, I figured for a track only car in Florida, that there would never be a time when not want to have my oil cooled.
Is the heating process putting too much stress on seals, and do I need to get
a thermostatic adapter?

08-01-2021, 09:49 AM	#1 (permalink)
Tedmeister Base Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Florida Posts: 68 Drives: 12 M6 Rep Power: 6778	In getting everything ready to drill and tap the port, I finally was able to get a good view at the port from above and saw that the port is actually cracked. When I had my original failure at the track I tried to finish my track day by just putting the factory sensor back in and doing without the aftermarket gauge. The factory sensor leaked when I tested it, so I just packed up the car. The impact of hitting a curb must have not only cracked the brass connector, but also cracked the port itself. Now the fun begins to replace the upper oil pan. I can't believe Z1 sold me this setup. The Autometer sensor seems larger than some of the others I have seen guys use on this forum. BettyZ likes this.

08-02-2021, 11:17 AM	#2 (permalink)
THE BULL Base Member Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Florida Posts: 216 Drives: G37S Rep Power: 26850	These types of sensor do suck especially since a smaller 3 pin sensor with the right gauge works just fine. The issue is the BSP thread requires an adapter which puts even more strain on the hole. I knew this prior to installing my gauge and since I did not want to use an adapter nor needed the OEM sensor now that I had a full sweeping gauge I took the cringy approach to rethread from BSP to NPT. Standard tapping and rethreading with grease to help pick up the shavings, lastly I disconnected the ignition and cranked it a couple of times so that oil pressure would clean the rest of the threads. Worked wonderfully, no issues. JARblue and Hotrodz like this.

08-03-2021, 04:22 AM	#3 (permalink)
Tedmeister Base Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Florida Posts: 68 Drives: 12 M6 Rep Power: 6778	I'll tap into the oil cooler line with an adapter. I would be too scared to introduce metal into the block by tapping the factory sensor location. Too bad there aren't any other ports in the block.

08-29-2021, 08:01 PM	#5 (permalink)
Tedmeister Base Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Florida Posts: 68 Drives: 12 M6 Rep Power: 6778	Finally got everything back together. It was a big pain in the rear to get the upper oil pan out and the replacement one in. I ended up lifting the engine high enough to pull it out over the suspension. Spent the money on AEM temp and pressure sensor and gauges. Installed the pressure sensor, which is a lot smaller than the Autometer sensor, with an AN adapter to the oil cooler. So now I have very precise temp and pressure readings. I drove the car around the neighborhood and had a hard time getting the temps up to good operating temp. Pressure was as high as 120 psi with the temp slowly creeping up. Had to keep revs above 3000 to keep heating the oil. My concern is that at the track the highest temps I saw was 210 in the oil pan. From there the oil goes through the cooler before being pumped through the engine. Does that mean the oil is only 180 to 190 as it enters the engine? That is just into the minimum temp for elevating the revs above the low range. I do not have a thermostatic adapter, I figured for a track only car in Florida, that there would never be a time when not want to have my oil cooled. Is the heating process putting too much stress on seals, and do I need to get a thermostatic adapter?