Fortune Auto 510

redondoaveb · 05-04-2021, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bpchaos

Another option would be the guys at MotoIQ. They're in Gardena.

https://motoiq.com/motoiq-garage/#:~...C%20California.

MotoIQ will do the suspension install but they send the car to Westend (Darin) for alignment. I'd like to go by and check out their shop and talk to them and see what they're all about

justin_boy · 05-06-2021, 02:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redondoaveb

MotoIQ will do the suspension install but they send the car to Westend (Darin) for alignment. I'd like to go by and check out their shop and talk to them and see what they're all about

darren and chris installed the kw's and even set the car up for my driving style. but ive gotten 10 alignments since then and im trying to figure it out myself, which is mistake #1

Hotrodz · 05-04-2021, 04:04 PM

So you have a car that is more suited for track and you are going to spend money on something that is not horrible but there is better. True type coilovers are the way to go. The setup is no more difficult than doing mid links and is less expensive. You should get to know some of the folks that participate in the Nissan Challenge as there is a ton of knowledge there. Malko or eagle here on the forum is someone you should talk to. DM him about his setup. He is one of the fastest guys in his class and overall. He runs Powertrix coilovers and they are true type. They are a very good product for the money. If you are over running your KWs then you are good enough for a true type coil. I am a suspension junkie and it is worth doing it right. You have a ton of experts close to you. Find one a follow their lead. Another good shop is Rockstar, they are a Feal dealer and very good with Japanese cars.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

justin_boy · 05-12-2021, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

So you have a car that is more suited for track and you are going to spend money on something that is not horrible but there is better. True type coilovers are the way to go. The setup is no more difficult than doing mid links and is less expensive. You should get to know some of the folks that participate in the Nissan Challenge as there is a ton of knowledge there. Malko or eagle here on the forum is someone you should talk to. DM him about his setup. He is one of the fastest guys in his class and overall. He runs Powertrix coilovers and they are true type. They are a very good product for the money. If you are over running your KWs then you are good enough for a true type coil. I am a suspension junkie and it is worth doing it right. You have a ton of experts close to you. Find one a follow their lead. Another good shop is Rockstar, they are a Feal dealer and very good with Japanese cars.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

i genuinely think my driving skill is not advanced enough to feel the difference in true type to divorced type, i was even thinking of getting some BC series ER, getting them custom 14k front 12k rear, or even 16k front 14k rear. the problem is I jumped the gun before and got V3's because i thought they were the best on the market. They were amazing but I dont know suspension mechanics well enough to have 3-way adjustable coilovers; and would rather have something simpler, if that makes sense.

Hotrodz · 05-12-2021, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justin_boy

i genuinely think my driving skill is not advanced enough to feel the difference in true type to divorced type, i was even thinking of getting some BC series ER, getting them custom 14k front 12k rear, or even 16k front 14k rear. the problem is I jumped the gun before and got V3's because i thought they were the best on the market. They were amazing but I dont know suspension mechanics well enough to have 3-way adjustable coilovers; and would rather have something simpler, if that makes sense.

I am still running one way adjustable coil overs and I don't think 3 ways are practical as two ways will get the job done if you have the bones to buy them. Every shop that has been listed for you can help you with setup regardless of 1, 2 or 3 way. Pictures of cars with their tires in the air are cool, but a planted car is faster. Regardless of your skill set the more planted or stable the car is the more confidence you will have.

Also, quit selling yourself short. Your times continue to fall every time you go to the track. There are others that have more seat time than you and you are faster than them. I get it. I always compare myself to the fastest guys in my class, whp range and I think I am slow. The reality is I have fewer cars in front of me than behind me now and the fckers in S2Ks and Lotus run buy cars with two and three times the power if they got skills and if you see a Miata in your rear view mirror, just salute them and move aside. I pretend they don't exist and don't count lol.

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justin_boy · 05-12-2021, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

I am still running one way adjustable coil overs and I don't think 3 ways are practical as two ways will get the job done if you have the bones to buy them. Every shop that has been listed for you can help you with setup regardless of 1, 2 or 3 way. Pictures of cars with their tires in the air are cool, but a planted car is faster. Regardless of your skill set the more planted or stable the car is the more confidence you will have.

Also, quit selling yourself short. Your times continue to fall every time you go to the track. There are others that have more seat time than you and you are faster than them. I get it. I always compare myself to the fastest guys in my class, whp range and I think I am slow. The reality is I have fewer cars in front of me than behind me now and the fckers in S2Ks and Lotus run buy cars with two and three times the power if they got skills and if you see a Miata in your rear view mirror, just salute them and move aside. I pretend they don't exist and don't count lol.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

thanks bud i really appreciate it. BTW i ran a 2:07 at button before i blew the clutch

crazy how some cars blow by you, but youre right. I called chris from west end, he said go with the fortunes. so much to cough up. blech

Hotrodz · 05-12-2021, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justin_boy

thanks bud i really appreciate it. BTW i ran a 2:07 at button before i blew the clutch

crazy how some cars blow by you, but youre right. I called chris from west end, he said go with the fortunes. so much to cough up. blech

Your times are getting closer and closer to the fast bois! You well pushing that 2:00 mark pretty soon!

Glad you maid the call. West End has been handling track cars for a long, long time.

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Spooler · 05-05-2021, 09:14 AM

Stiff does not mean a good handling car. A compliant car that gives confidence is the best setup. Sounds like you need to do some more research. Get some help like was suggested.

OptionZero · 05-05-2021, 02:19 PM

I am 100% you misheard them or misunderstood when they said “20k”. That’s insane.

justin_boy · 05-06-2021, 02:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OptionZero

I am 100% you misheard them or misunderstood when they said “20k”. That’s insane.

no thats what e46 guys run, even up to 22k up front but spl guys explained to me that they can run that on e46's but not on the 370

Brendan · 05-05-2021, 10:26 PM

Running 18k up front and may go up to 20k but I am an autocross sea urchin.

The nice thing about Fortunes is they have a crazy range of rate they can take before needing to be re-valved. Plus or minus 8k or so. If you get them be sure to pick up some bump stops and helper springs. Helper springs will really help with allowing the car to drive nicely on the street with higher main spring rates as they allow you to keep a good amount of droop. Bump stops will allow you go low without the risk of slapping chassis or having the tire rub the fender/bumper bracket.

Springs are easy to change. Get a good starting point and then learn what you like or dislike and make appropriate changes based on how the tires heat up and wear and how the car is driving.

As for divorced (oem type) vs true, I don't think it matters too much. I run divorced style cause of the da rules. Going true type changes the motion ratio so it will require you to run much softer springs in the rear.

I would start at 16k front and then depending on the rear coilover type you go with 14k for oem/divorced rear and maybe 5k rear if you true style. that will put you on the lower side of 2 hertz front and rear (2.2fr/2.1rr give or take a .02 or so depending on how heavy your wheels and brakes etc are)

Cheers, and remember, don't stress too much on getting it "right". Chances are wherever you start will be wrong. Spend more time learning how to understand what changes will do to affect how the car handles.

justin_boy · 05-06-2021, 02:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brendan

Running 18k up front and may go up to 20k but I am an autocross sea urchin.

The nice thing about Fortunes is they have a crazy range of rate they can take before needing to be re-valved. Plus or minus 8k or so. If you get them be sure to pick up some bump stops and helper springs. Helper springs will really help with allowing the car to drive nicely on the street with higher main spring rates as they allow you to keep a good amount of droop. Bump stops will allow you go low without the risk of slapping chassis or having the tire rub the fender/bumper bracket.

Springs are easy to change. Get a good starting point and then learn what you like or dislike and make appropriate changes based on how the tires heat up and wear and how the car is driving.

As for divorced (oem type) vs true, I don't think it matters too much. I run divorced style cause of the da rules. Going true type changes the motion ratio so it will require you to run much softer springs in the rear.

I would start at 16k front and then depending on the rear coilover type you go with 14k for oem/divorced rear and maybe 5k rear if you true style. that will put you on the lower side of 2 hertz front and rear (2.2fr/2.1rr give or take a .02 or so depending on how heavy your wheels and brakes etc are)

Cheers, and remember, don't stress too much on getting it "right". Chances are wherever you start will be wrong. Spend more time learning how to understand what changes will do to affect how the car handles.

thank you for the help, i will stay divorced and take your advice on the spring rates

thanks again for everything

justin_boy · 05-12-2021, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brendan

Running 18k up front and may go up to 20k but I am an autocross sea urchin.

The nice thing about Fortunes is they have a crazy range of rate they can take before needing to be re-valved. Plus or minus 8k or so. If you get them be sure to pick up some bump stops and helper springs. Helper springs will really help with allowing the car to drive nicely on the street with higher main spring rates as they allow you to keep a good amount of droop. Bump stops will allow you go low without the risk of slapping chassis or having the tire rub the fender/bumper bracket.

Springs are easy to change. Get a good starting point and then learn what you like or dislike and make appropriate changes based on how the tires heat up and wear and how the car is driving.

As for divorced (oem type) vs true, I don't think it matters too much. I run divorced style cause of the da rules. Going true type changes the motion ratio so it will require you to run much softer springs in the rear.

I would start at 16k front and then depending on the rear coilover type you go with 14k for oem/divorced rear and maybe 5k rear if you true style. that will put you on the lower side of 2 hertz front and rear (2.2fr/2.1rr give or take a .02 or so depending on how heavy your wheels and brakes etc are)

Cheers, and remember, don't stress too much on getting it "right". Chances are wherever you start will be wrong. Spend more time learning how to understand what changes will do to affect how the car handles.

i think im going to do exactly that, (OEM 16k/14k) probably

btw your z looks insane with those 305's in the front. are they ze 40's?

what do you think about BC series ER?

Brendan · 05-12-2021, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justin_boy

i think im going to do exactly that, (OEM 16k/14k) probably

btw your z looks insane with those 305's in the front. are they ze 40's?

what do you think about BC series ER?

315*

Bc, fortune, feal etc I don't think it matters too much. As long as what you get is serviceable (preferably in the USA) and allows you to change spring rate, it's fine. The only reason I went with fortune was because of the wide range of spring tolerance. I'm sure there are pros to the other brands but that's why I chose mine.

justin_boy · 05-13-2021, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brendan

315*

Bc, fortune, feal etc I don't think it matters too much. As long as what you get is serviceable (preferably in the USA) and allows you to change spring rate, it's fine. The only reason I went with fortune was because of the wide range of spring tolerance. I'm sure there are pros to the other brands but that's why I chose mine.

Yeesh that’s beefy

I’ll be calling bc tomorrow and fortune auto

Gonna weigh out some options, liking the er series and 510’s are also looking good

I think I’m going to go with the 16/14 combo but my mind changes back and forth. Main concern is I don’t want to induce understeer, and have a hotchkis up front

05-04-2021, 04:04 PM	#3 (permalink)
Hotrodz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684385	So you have a car that is more suited for track and you are going to spend money on something that is not horrible but there is better. True type coilovers are the way to go. The setup is no more difficult than doing mid links and is less expensive. You should get to know some of the folks that participate in the Nissan Challenge as there is a ton of knowledge there. Malko or eagle here on the forum is someone you should talk to. DM him about his setup. He is one of the fastest guys in his class and overall. He runs Powertrix coilovers and they are true type. They are a very good product for the money. If you are over running your KWs then you are good enough for a true type coil. I am a suspension junkie and it is worth doing it right. You have a ton of experts close to you. Find one a follow their lead. Another good shop is Rockstar, they are a Feal dealer and very good with Japanese cars. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Rusty, axmea?, justin_boy and 2 others like this. __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

05-05-2021, 09:14 AM	#8 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,109 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684394	Stiff does not mean a good handling car. A compliant car that gives confidence is the best setup. Sounds like you need to do some more research. Get some help like was suggested. JARblue, cv129, Rusty and 2 others like this. Last edited by Spooler; 05-05-2021 at 09:17 AM.

05-05-2021, 02:19 PM	#9 (permalink)
OptionZero A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,265 Drives: 15 370Z Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 214101	I am 100% you misheard them or misunderstood when they said “20k”. That’s insane. JARblue, Rusty and Hotrodz like this. __________________ OptionZero Build Thread

05-05-2021, 10:26 PM	#11 (permalink)
Brendan Track Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Colorado Posts: 646 Drives: Poor man's Porsche Rep Power: 543	Running 18k up front and may go up to 20k but I am an autocross sea urchin. The nice thing about Fortunes is they have a crazy range of rate they can take before needing to be re-valved. Plus or minus 8k or so. If you get them be sure to pick up some bump stops and helper springs. Helper springs will really help with allowing the car to drive nicely on the street with higher main spring rates as they allow you to keep a good amount of droop. Bump stops will allow you go low without the risk of slapping chassis or having the tire rub the fender/bumper bracket. Springs are easy to change. Get a good starting point and then learn what you like or dislike and make appropriate changes based on how the tires heat up and wear and how the car is driving. As for divorced (oem type) vs true, I don't think it matters too much. I run divorced style cause of the da rules. Going true type changes the motion ratio so it will require you to run much softer springs in the rear. I would start at 16k front and then depending on the rear coilover type you go with 14k for oem/divorced rear and maybe 5k rear if you true style. that will put you on the lower side of 2 hertz front and rear (2.2fr/2.1rr give or take a .02 or so depending on how heavy your wheels and brakes etc are) Cheers, and remember, don't stress too much on getting it "right". Chances are wherever you start will be wrong. Spend more time learning how to understand what changes will do to affect how the car handles. JARblue, cv129 and Hotrodz like this.

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