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Z1 cover. Reality is, it has been maintenance time for my truck. New front brake pads, rotors, driver's side unit bearing, and new Bilsteins all the way around again. They

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Old 03-22-2018, 07:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Z1 cover.


Reality is, it has been maintenance time for my truck. New front brake pads, rotors, driver's side unit bearing, and new Bilsteins all the way around again. They lasted 120k miles. Can't complain.
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Last edited by Spooler; 03-22-2018 at 07:56 PM.
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Old 03-25-2018, 12:00 AM   #2 (permalink)
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1st pic. The new OS Giken LSD is installed and the Z1 cover is installed. Ready to install in the Z.

2nd and 3rd pic's. Had to file down a section of the SpeedHut temp sensor plug for clearance on the sub-frame.

4th pic. Plug installed. If the boss in the Z1 cover was 3/16" towards the front more. I wouldn't had to modded the plug.
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File Type: jpg IMG_1619.jpg (305.8 KB, 18 views)
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Last edited by Rusty; 03-25-2018 at 01:28 AM.
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Old 03-25-2018, 12:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
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1st and 2nd pic's. Was told that I couldn't use the upper side port in the Z1 cover for the return line because of the sensor location. And would have to use the bottom, fill port for the return.

3rd and 4th pic's. Found a way to use the upper port. Used a banjo fitting. AN 08 x 18mm. x .150 with an elbow installed on it. The return line goes over the top of the sub-frame.
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File Type: jpg IMG_1644.JPG (677.1 KB, 41 views)
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Last edited by Rusty; 03-25-2018 at 01:29 AM.
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Old 03-25-2018, 12:54 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Talking

1st pic. you have to remove this heat shield. It's in the way of the plumping of the cooler and fan.

These next pic's are about making you own stainless hose. I got all of the fittings and hose from Jegs. The size is AN -8.

List of parts.
Need 1,
555-28012 | JEGS
Need 3,
555-110002 | JEGS
Need 1,
361-AT230308 | JEGS
Need 1. I got a 10ft lenght. 3ft would be more then enough.
361-410008 | JEGS
Need 1. This goes on the inlet side of the cooler.
361-AT812008 | JEGS
Need 3.
361-AT809008 | JEGS

The Banjo fitting come from Pegasus Auto Racing. These ain't cheap.
Need 2,
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=8754
Need 2,
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=10034
Need 1 package, #3278-M18
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3278

I have extra hose and some fittings left over if anyone wants them cheap.



2nd pic. Making my own Stainless lines. Not hard to do. First measure your line. Tape up the area to be cut. The tape keeps the stainless from coming apart.

3rd pic. I use a die grinder with a 4" fiber cut off wheel. Makes for a fast straight cut.

4th pic. This is what your hose should look like after removing the tape.

5th pic. Installing the outer part. You have to use some force to get it where it has to be.

6th pic. Put hose lube inside the hose and on the inner piece.

7th pic. Starting to install the inner piece. This can be a bear to get started.

8th pic. Once the inner piece is started. Mark the hose with a Sharpie at the rear of the outer piece. This with let you know if the hose is moving out of position when you are screwing in the inner piece.

9th and 10th pic's. The end is finished, and the hose is finished. Ready for install.
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Last edited by Rusty; 03-25-2018 at 01:04 AM.
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Old 03-25-2018, 01:02 AM   #5 (permalink)
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1st pic. The diff cooler assy is installed. Here, you can see where the return line goes over the sub-frame from the pump.

2nd pic. Here's the return line going into the upper port of the Z1 cover.

3rd pic. Here's the inlet line from the bottom port of the Z1 cover to the cooler with an inline filter.
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File Type: jpg IMG_1644.JPG (677.1 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1646.JPG (675.3 KB, 55 views)
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Last edited by Rusty; 03-25-2018 at 01:32 AM.
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