MA Motorsports Diff Cooler Install

Rusty · 06-21-2017, 07:48 PM

Drilled the Z1 diff cover for the diff temp probe. The temp probe is a 1/8" NTP pipe tap. Used a "R" drill bit for the hole.

Rusty · 06-21-2017, 07:51 PM

Couple of more pic's.

Spooler · 03-22-2018, 01:56 PM

Hurry up already. I need a guinea pig before I do mine. Better for you to learn the hard way and me have an easy time.

Rusty · 03-22-2018, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Hurry up already. I need a guinea pig before I do mine. Better for you to learn the hard way and me have an easy time.

Couple more days and I will be done. Will post pic's too.

What diff cover you using? Stock or Z1?

Spooler · 03-22-2018, 07:53 PM

Z1 cover.

Reality is, it has been maintenance time for my truck. New front brake pads, rotors, driver's side unit bearing, and new Bilsteins all the way around again. They lasted 120k miles. Can't complain.

Rusty · 03-25-2018, 12:00 AM

1st pic. The new OS Giken LSD is installed and the Z1 cover is installed. Ready to install in the Z.

2nd and 3rd pic's. Had to file down a section of the SpeedHut temp sensor plug for clearance on the sub-frame.

4th pic. Plug installed. If the boss in the Z1 cover was 3/16" towards the front more. I wouldn't had to modded the plug.

Rusty · 03-25-2018, 12:10 AM

1st and 2nd pic's. Was told that I couldn't use the upper side port in the Z1 cover for the return line because of the sensor location. And would have to use the bottom, fill port for the return.

3rd and 4th pic's. Found a way to use the upper port. Used a banjo fitting. AN 08 x 18mm. x .150 with an elbow installed on it. The return line goes over the top of the sub-frame.

Rusty · 03-25-2018, 12:54 AM

1st pic. you have to remove this heat shield. It's in the way of the plumping of the cooler and fan.

These next pic's are about making you own stainless hose. I got all of the fittings and hose from Jegs. The size is AN -8.

List of parts.
Need 1,
555-28012 | JEGS
Need 3,
555-110002 | JEGS
Need 1,
361-AT230308 | JEGS
Need 1. I got a 10ft lenght. 3ft would be more then enough.
361-410008 | JEGS
Need 1. This goes on the inlet side of the cooler.
361-AT812008 | JEGS
Need 3.
361-AT809008 | JEGS

The Banjo fitting come from Pegasus Auto Racing. These ain't cheap.
Need 2,
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=8754
Need 2,
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=10034
Need 1 package, #3278-M18
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3278

I have extra hose and some fittings left over if anyone wants them cheap.

2nd pic. Making my own Stainless lines. Not hard to do. First measure your line. Tape up the area to be cut. The tape keeps the stainless from coming apart.

3rd pic. I use a die grinder with a 4" fiber cut off wheel. Makes for a fast straight cut.

4th pic. This is what your hose should look like after removing the tape.

5th pic. Installing the outer part. You have to use some force to get it where it has to be.

6th pic. Put hose lube inside the hose and on the inner piece.

7th pic. Starting to install the inner piece. This can be a bear to get started.

8th pic. Once the inner piece is started. Mark the hose with a Sharpie at the rear of the outer piece. This with let you know if the hose is moving out of position when you are screwing in the inner piece.

9th and 10th pic's. The end is finished, and the hose is finished. Ready for install.

Rusty · 03-25-2018, 01:02 AM

1st pic. The diff cooler assy is installed. Here, you can see where the return line goes over the sub-frame from the pump.

2nd pic. Here's the return line going into the upper port of the Z1 cover.

3rd pic. Here's the inlet line from the bottom port of the Z1 cover to the cooler with an inline filter.

Spooler · 03-25-2018, 02:32 PM

Gotta get the banjo fitting so I can plumb mine up the same way. I did get the kit from MA with all of the lines, relays, and a thermostat wired in. No switches for me, I am going to wire it to run the pump and fan when the temps hit the thermostat threshold.

Rusty · 03-25-2018, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Gotta get the banjo fitting so I can plumb mine up the same way. I did get the kit from MA with all of the lines, relays, and a thermostat wired in. No switches for me, I am going to wire it to run the pump and fan when the temps hit the thermostat threshold.

I got one of the first kits MAM made. So, I'm in the dark on the plug and play wiring. They was talking about making the wiring kit.

Rusty · 03-25-2018, 04:27 PM

Some more pic's.

1st pic. Diff cooler install finished.

2nd pic. The drain port banjo fitting. Here, you can see the 2 crush washers between the banjo fitting and the cover.

3rd pic. Hose clamp.

Rusty · 03-25-2018, 04:37 PM

1st pic. The very top of the cooler.

2nd pic. Where I ran my grounds to. Still have to apply sealant over the area.

3rd. In the trunk, on the left side. There is a rubber grommet with a wire going throught it. This is where my wiring for the temp sensor and power wires for the pump and fan come through. This is the underside of that grommet.

4th, 5th and 6th pic's. Some pic's of my wiring. The wiring is in heat resistant wiring loom.

Rusty · 03-25-2018, 04:55 PM

Notes on the install.

You have to use 2 crush washers on one side of the banjo fittings. The side against the cover. Because there is a relieved area around the ports. When you tighten down on the banjo's. The banjo body bottoms out on the raised area, not on the crush washer. Using 2 washers. The banjo body will seat on the crush washers now. If you don't do this. You WILL have leaks.

When turning on the pump for the first after filling the cover. The pump will be noisy until it starts to pump fluid. You can hear the pitch change.

The Z1 cover and diff cooler took about 2.5 liters of fluid. I had to go out and buy a new pump for the OS Giken fluid. That chit is thick. I broke my pump that screws onto the top of the container. So I bought a hand pump from the local Harbor Freight store for $7.00.

If someone is going to do this install the same. I have enough hose and fittings to make the lines for you, or you can buy the extras from me and make the lines yourself. You have to buy your own banjo' fittings and filter. I don't have them.

The pic is of the new hand pump.

Spooler · 03-25-2018, 09:49 PM

I talked with Dalean about it several weeks ago when buying my diff cooler. They always use 75w90 with a diff cooler. What sucks is I have 3 liters of OS Giken fluid at around 80 bucks a piece in the garage.

03-22-2018, 07:53 PM	#5 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,060 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684393	Z1 cover. Reality is, it has been maintenance time for my truck. New front brake pads, rotors, driver's side unit bearing, and new Bilsteins all the way around again. They lasted 120k miles. Can't complain. Rusty and Hotrodz like this. Last edited by Spooler; 03-22-2018 at 07:56 PM.

03-25-2018, 02:32 PM	#10 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,060 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684393	Gotta get the banjo fitting so I can plumb mine up the same way. I did get the kit from MA with all of the lines, relays, and a thermostat wired in. No switches for me, I am going to wire it to run the pump and fan when the temps hit the thermostat threshold. Rusty likes this.

03-25-2018, 09:49 PM	#15 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,060 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684393	I talked with Dalean about it several weeks ago when buying my diff cooler. They always use 75w90 with a diff cooler. What sucks is I have 3 liters of OS Giken fluid at around 80 bucks a piece in the garage. Rusty likes this.

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03-22-2018, 01:56 PM	#3 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,060 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684393	Hurry up already. I need a guinea pig before I do mine. Better for you to learn the hard way and me have an easy time.