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Originally Posted by Spooler I talked with Dalean about it several weeks ago when buying my diff cooler. They always use 75w90 with a diff cooler. What sucks is I
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I have the temp gauge installed. So I will know how hot the diff is running under different conditions.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Also I ran into a little problem. When I went to mount my right exhaust can. Found out it was hitting the oil line from the bottom of the cover to the cooler at the front of the cooler bracket. So, I'm re routing the line. If I wasn't using the inline filter. It wouldn't be much of an issue. BUT since I'm using the inline filter. I have to do some more planning. Have some more fittings coming tomorrow. I'll post pic's when done. Another thing Daelen mentioned in his e-mail. It's about using the banjo fittings. He said that they don't like to use them because they are more restrictive then a regular fitting. On the bottom of the Z1 cover. You have to use one because of ground clearance issues. On the side of the Z1 cover. If you use the bottom side port (fill hole). You can use a regular fitting. But if you want to use the top port. You either use a banjo fitting, or buy other wheel speed sensor for the left side and put it on the right side. This will put the position of the wires off of the sensor pointing down instead of up. Have to lengthen the wires for this to work. Doing this will let you use a regular AN fitting. I'm going to check into this at a later time. Just want the Z back on the road. It's been on jackstands since last July. ![]()
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#4 (permalink) |
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All done. Unless I get other ideas.
![]() Other idea is to hard pipe the hose from the top down towards the bottom, and have the filter there. To get the bottom hose away from the exhaust can. I had to reroute the line to the center. 1st pic. Shows the side with a hose strap to hold it in place. 2nd pic. Shows the top. 3rd and 4th pics. Shows the hose in the center. 5th pic. From the rear. All out of harms way.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Having a SpeedHut diff temp gauge installed. Watching the temps today. It's 40F outside. Diff temp went to 200F after about 20 miles and stabilize. Turned on the pump and watched the temps drop. Turned the fan on and the temps dropped even quicker.
![]() ![]() The OS Giken diff is a bit clunky in operation at low speed. You know it's working.
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#7 (permalink) |
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It got hot quicker then I thought it would.
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#8 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Where did you get your power from. I can't seem to locate it in the thread. Did you go straight to the battery or fuse box?
Last edited by Spooler; 05-31-2018 at 03:43 PM. |
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Main power from the battery to a relay. Control power. I spliced into the power acc port under the right side of the dash.
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#11 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
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Through the big wiring grommet under the hood. After I ran the wiring through. I put rtv over the area to seal it.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Up-date.
Getting ready to drop the sub-frame to install the SPL bushing in the sub-frame mounts. So I decided to drain the rear diff of fluid. Very pleased with what came out. No particles that I can see. The lube is dark, but not black. Pulled apart the screen filter that I installed in the line that goes from the diff to the cooler. Nothing in there either. ![]() ![]()
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