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Figured they included a relay. But since they dont, you can get a fuel pump relay kit. P/N FPHWK will do it.
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#2 (permalink) |
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For the price a relay, switch & battery harness should be included rather than piggybacking the Oe circuit. Doesn’t seem safe nor reliable especially for a street car.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Seems like you have lots of concerns and are talking your self out of Z1 kit. You should get phunk's kit as it is top notch. Those of us that have the Z1 kit have not experience any issues or at least I have not heard of any.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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I've also yet to hear from anyone with the Z1 kit that is using it on a street car running the auxiliary pump 100% of the time. Sputtered to Stop......Now Runs Fine.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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#6 (permalink) |
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I apologize in advance because I know this has got to sound rude over the internet: But you do realize you can purchase Hydramats and fuel pumps just about anywhere right?!
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#7 (permalink) |
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The concern with running the Z1 second pump full time is that the driver side of the fuel tank in a Z is generally empty during normal driving, if the fuel gauge is at 1/2 or below.
This is because the factory fuel pump housing has a venturi jet pump that is recovering fuel to the passenger side of the tank so that the fuel pump can pick it up and send it to the engine. The recovery of fuel is quicker than the consumption of fuel, thus if you were to pull over the average Z on the average drive with a 1/2 tank of fuel and open both sides of the tank, you will find that the driver side is empty and the passenger side is full. The reason the Z suffers starvation is because the fuel sloshes to the driver side of the tank on hard turns, and then there is none for the fuel pump to grab. The venturi jet pump is literally "powered by" bypass fuel leaving the regulator. So when the pump starves, the jet pump dies also. This is why a real bad case of starvation can leave you on the side of the road even with a significant amount of fuel in the tank. If you slosh it bad enough, there is just none for the pump, and the jet pump is dead due to no fuel leaving the regulator. The Z1 kit eliminates starvation by "supercharging" the recovery of fuel to the passenger side by pumping it there with an actual fuel pump. This will make the driver side of the tank far more prone to just being entirely empty when driving the car at 1/2 tank or below, especially on the street where you will rarely turn hard enough to slosh fuel back over to it. Electronic fuel pumps dont have a great lifespan when they run dry because the gasoline is what cools and lubricates them. So if you DO use your Z1 kit on the street, I would highly recommend you put a toggle switch on it so you can turn it off. On the track it should be fine as it will constantly get sloshed fuel. On the street, it will run dry for long period. The CJM RRP is a surge can system that operates under an entirely different principle and it is normal and required that both pumps run all the time. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Don't know that about the Z1 kit.
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Wow, I was seriously considering Z1 kit for the price, but Phunk’s explanation pulls me back to the darker side lol.
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A toggle switch could be made for Z1 and run it for track only
Or maybe just run stock pump a Y and a extra line with a Hydramat to passenger side
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#13 (permalink) | |
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The only issue i've had was user error during install from not securing a fuel line down correctly.
Otherwise, the Z1 kit works. Negatives are that I do still worry about the left pump being starved and running dry outside of track days, and I always keep the tank filled when possible. And that my fuel lights have read 1/4 tank lower than they actually are ever since the install. (maybe also user error). CJM's product quality is worth the extra cost, though, if budget permits. More stable solution, and nicer hardware than the Z1 kit.
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Very often, it happens immediately after molesting the fuel pump housing for modifications. I am not sure the source of the problem, I would need the car here to diagnose it. But dont feel bad, it is a common occurrence after fuel system work. One suspicion I have, is the in-tank siphon hose slack interfering with the fuel level float arm travel. But I have in the past run into slightly worn level sensors that do not read correctly. |
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