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oil change price... it's like, WOW!

Originally Posted by U235 OK, please do not make this worse than it is. NO WHERE does ANYTHING say Nissan Ester is required . I'm simply recommended . They also

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Old 04-29-2009, 06:22 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by U235 View Post
OK, please do not make this worse than it is. NO WHERE does ANYTHING say Nissan Ester is required. I'm simply recommended. They also recommend inspecting brakes and hoses every 7,500 miles or whatever. It's a performance car and they know that unsuspecting owners will buy into whatever it is.

At the end of the day, it's probably no different than a quality synthetic. If you want peace of mind, then go with the Nissan Ester, but by no means is it required. They will not void your warranty for not using it, etc.

Our Toyota dealer says they recommend "Toyota Motor Oil" in all Toyota's. It's just conventional oil; the only reason they recommend it is it's more cash in their pockets.
I think they put its "recommended" in the manual incase any thing goes wrong they can point to the manual and say well you didnt use recommended oil.

Besides the first guy to make there own Ester oil is gonna make a mad profit. I would love to use Royal purple ester oil if it costs half the price of nissans. Hell every one on the board would be useing it.
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Old 04-29-2009, 06:24 PM   #62 (permalink)
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I do want to spend more. I never use cruise control in my car until few miles WAY WAY down the road, like 5,000 or 8,000 miles, Yes i go to that lenghts so i dont mess with the engine.

In my 350z i used Royal Purple Religiously, now with the ester crap i planned on using it until i was sure i wanted to continue to use Royal Purple.

No where in my plans did formula shell come in. See what i mean? That was never part of my plan. Im the type of guy that i want it the way i WANT IT, and dont mess with that. Obviously i dont want the moon to fit in the palm of my hand but i keep my wants realistic.

Adding this, guess what i only use chevron also, Costs more. The cheap crap gas is allways right near a chevron too, but i dont faulter.
Thats too bad man... I would stay the fvck away from chevron if i were you... I get chevron once in a couple months and thats it. The techron they add to their gas mix can be harmful to your engine life if constantly used... There might be no real evidence of it but why take a chance? It does have extra stuff that engines were not supposed to burn lol... same w/ shell... stick w/ 76
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Old 04-29-2009, 08:57 PM   #63 (permalink)
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what makes you think 76 has no additives? just because they dont advertise it like chevron and shell ,doesnt mean they dont have additives

as far as i know the only ones with no additives in them are the cheap/ and or costco gas thats why they are so cheap

on top of that i have a 1990 sentra with 225k and a 1997 dodge caravan with almost 300k both running fine since day 1 using chevron gas
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Old 04-29-2009, 10:41 PM   #64 (permalink)
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what makes you think 76 has no additives? just because they dont advertise it like chevron and shell ,doesnt mean they dont have additives

as far as i know the only ones with no additives in them are the cheap/ and or costco gas thats why they are so cheap

on top of that i have a 1990 sentra with 225k and a 1997 dodge caravan with almost 300k both running fine since day 1 using chevron gas
Actually in the US, the law requires certain additives in retail gasoline at service stations. Some companies (notably Shell and Chevron, but others as well I'm sure) go above and beyond the required additives, but they all have additives of some sort, mostly detergents to keep engines running cleaner and more efficiently.

Also, I can't find a source right now, but I'm pretty sure I've read before that the base fuel stocks (before additives are mixed in) are virtually identical between all the top tier stations (ExxonMobil, ChevronTexaco, Shell, BP/Amoco, etc).
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Old 04-30-2009, 12:02 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by shabarivas View Post
Thats too bad man... I would stay the fvck away from chevron if i were you... I get chevron once in a couple months and thats it. The techron they add to their gas mix can be harmful to your engine life if constantly used... There might be no real evidence of it but why take a chance? It does have extra stuff that engines were not supposed to burn lol... same w/ shell... stick w/ 76
What says that Nissan Esther is better than another leading oil. It'll only take a few months before someone sends their oils out for analysis and I'm going on record now saying that those will conclusively prove there's no need to spend $12 / quart for this pixie-dust Nissan oil.

The Chevron/crap gas station comparison is not a valuable contribution to this thread. I've seen no one on this thread mention using some crappy no-name oil like Kendall or GreatWestern or whatever. People are talking about Royal Purple, Mobil-1, Motul, etc. These have been proven time-after-time in VQ engines (although Mobil-1 isn't that great actually). To me, this recommendation is not too different than if Nissan "recommended" Chevron Premium and someone decided to put Shell in it instead (both top-tiers gas). Again we're not comparing this Nissan magic-juice to crap oils.

Even Castrol GTX performs really well in just about every VQ engine to date. I'd be using Amsoil if I got a 370z and I'd have no hesitations about it.

To the guy who said the dealer can deny warranty because you didn't use the recommended oil. That's complete BS and would be illegal. There are laws specifically written to prevent that sort of issue. If it was a "Requirement" it's one thing, if it's a "Recommendation" it basically doesn't hold any weight.

I generally tell people the best thing they can do is use a quality DINO and change it every 3k miles. My favorite mainstream DINO is Castrol GTX. I use it in my Infiniti because A) it's a lease and I have no intention of keeping it. B) I change every 3k miles regardless C) In oil analysis GTX outperforms Mobil-1 (on 350z/G35).

However, since the 370z is likely to be driven more aggressively by most drivers, and some of the overheating issues documented, I'd be inclined to run a top synthetic: Amsoil or Castrol Euro Formula would top my list.

Last edited by U235; 04-30-2009 at 12:07 AM.
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Old 04-30-2009, 01:36 AM   #66 (permalink)
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I had mine changed at the dealer last week with ester oil. My bill was $78.
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Old 04-30-2009, 03:13 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by U235 View Post
What says that Nissan Esther is better than another leading oil. It'll only take a few months before someone sends their oils out for analysis and I'm going on record now saying that those will conclusively prove there's no need to spend $12 / quart for this pixie-dust Nissan oil.

The Chevron/crap gas station comparison is not a valuable contribution to this thread. I've seen no one on this thread mention using some crappy no-name oil like Kendall or GreatWestern or whatever. People are talking about Royal Purple, Mobil-1, Motul, etc. These have been proven time-after-time in VQ engines (although Mobil-1 isn't that great actually). To me, this recommendation is not too different than if Nissan "recommended" Chevron Premium and someone decided to put Shell in it instead (both top-tiers gas). Again we're not comparing this Nissan magic-juice to crap oils.

Even Castrol GTX performs really well in just about every VQ engine to date. I'd be using Amsoil if I got a 370z and I'd have no hesitations about it.

To the guy who said the dealer can deny warranty because you didn't use the recommended oil. That's complete BS and would be illegal. There are laws specifically written to prevent that sort of issue. If it was a "Requirement" it's one thing, if it's a "Recommendation" it basically doesn't hold any weight.

I generally tell people the best thing they can do is use a quality DINO and change it every 3k miles. My favorite mainstream DINO is Castrol GTX. I use it in my Infiniti because A) it's a lease and I have no intention of keeping it. B) I change every 3k miles regardless C) In oil analysis GTX outperforms Mobil-1 (on 350z/G35).

However, since the 370z is likely to be driven more aggressively by most drivers, and some of the overheating issues documented, I'd be inclined to run a top synthetic: Amsoil or Castrol Euro Formula would top my list.
I dont want to find out that you NEED it after i have not been using it. remember a test can go both ways.
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:20 AM   #68 (permalink)
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I think they put its "recommended" in the manual incase any thing goes wrong they can point to the manual and say well you didnt use recommended oil.
If they are the ones doing the oil change it wont matter, either way they will have to back it.
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:33 AM   #69 (permalink)
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On the VQ37VHR Motors, we use Eneos 5w40 and 0w50 full synthetic and the Nissan/Infiniti Ester Oil. The Ester oil that Nissan/Infiniti recommends is to reduce valvetrain noise... the Ester oil will stick to the valve just a little longer to reduce the noise.

I have a reputable source that informed me that switching to fully Synthetic Eneos 5w40 or 0w50 will provide the same, if not better protection, performance, and enhanced lubrication in this VQ37VHR. It should not void the factory warranty. Performance gains can be upwards of 5whp over Mobil1 and other leading synthetics. The 0w50 is the ultimate performance oil that will protect the motor from cold starting temperatures to very high temperatures.


P.S. Infiniti G37 owners sometimes complained of valvetrain noise and then the manufacturer created a TSB to recommend the use of Ester oil to cover up the valvetrain noise.
Danops, have you gotten any feedback on Motul 300V?
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:41 AM   #70 (permalink)
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I dont want to find out that you NEED it after i have not been using it. remember a test can go both ways.
If you NEED it, it'd be a requirement. This engine isn't brand new, it's been in use in the G37 for a good year now. Usually within a year there's the signs of whether something is going to be wrong.

Regardless, if it turns out there's ANY problem and that the car must have this special oil, Nissan will be responsible for any damage caused by not running it since it's a recommendation and not a requirement. It's not unheard of for entire engines to be recalled (see e46 M3 for example). My point being, read things literally: REQUIRED = NEED TO DO. RECOMMENDED = Optional.

The fact that it's optional means using any other high-quality, proven synthetic is still ok and still exceeds the requirement. If it gives you peace of mind, I say go for it. A regular synthetic oil change will cost you $60+ and it seems others have been able to get Ester changes for $80 so it's not such a big difference. However, at $120 it's bit more of a contemplation.

The valvetrain info is interesting.
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Old 04-30-2009, 12:57 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by danops
Performance gains can be upwards of 5whp over Mobil1 and other leading synthetics.
Performance gains from oil.


This sticker adds more than 10whp over Venom and other leading nitrous systems.

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Old 04-30-2009, 06:29 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Im going to get my frist oil change this Saturday.Im taking Royal Purple ti put in my Z.
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:22 PM   #73 (permalink)
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I've been running Royal Purple 5w-30 since 2k miles. No problems.
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Old 05-01-2009, 02:41 AM   #74 (permalink)
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i want to use royal purple also but i am hesitant until i hear more feed back from everybody.
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Old 05-01-2009, 08:05 AM   #75 (permalink)
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I just changed mine yesterday at 2000 miles. Mobil 1 5w-30 cost $50.
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