I tried to break the demon bolt free again...did nothing but round it off and then break a bolt extractor. I really just don't understand this damn thing. The other side comes out so easy. So I went ahead and tightened up the engine bay with a few Z1 silicone hoses.

Just a slight update...

The Dynamat I ordered is the SuperLite Tri-Pack. I decided to use this on the access panel of the doors and the back of the door panels with whatever that's left over in the rear of the car.

Tonight, I ordered a Hushmat door kit for "large" cars, which comes with four sheets of 11.75" squares of Hushmat, and two 7.75" squares of Wave Breaker.

I got my Sullivan Racing pedals installed today. You can actually heel/toe with these if you want to take the rev match off.

Got a delivery today. The Memphis PRX27 drivers and Dynamat SuperLite Tri-Pak.

I do believe these are the tiniest speakers I have ever bought (excluding tweeters of course). They're supposed to be pretty decent considering. I'm sure they're a big improvement over the nasty stock 2" tweeters in the dash now. I guess I'll find out soon enough tomorrow.

One thing to note about these little guys... They have a nice textured powder coating on the entire basket. Seems that that powder coating damps the baskets some. Tapping the basket with my knife handle, the basket makes a nice muted "thunk" sound rather than a tinny kind of ringing sound.

Sitting by an iPhone 6 Plus for size reference...

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Got wheels cleaned up, gonna try & detail on Z some before they go back on.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9868ea69ca.jpg


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Those look pretty sweet. Looking forward to more pics of the install. Where'd you pick them up and how much did they run you?

Nitto Invo's. Good choice. Remind me of lightsabers

Thanks!

So far, I've ordered everything from Crutchfield. These run $40, and after just installing them and making tweaks to the system... MAJOR IMPROVEMENT! And they'll only get better with a little break-in and more tweaking. I actually plan on running the calibration mic this weekend and running the auto time alignment and auto tune, though I'm going to document my current "tuned by ear" settings, because it already sounds pretty darn good.

I have these crossed over at 1.25 kHz at 12 dB (was at 8 kHz with the stockers - yuck). I now have the door speakers crossed over at 1.25 kHz at 24 dB on the top end and still 40 Hz at 24 dB on the bottom end. I ran the system for a solid hour with all of the tweaking and listening.

As for fitment, they fit perfectly though the mounting holes don't line up perfectly. Once you get one screw in, the other is slightly past, so you can't put that screw in. I'll do one of two things this weekend. Either leave them as is and put the two other screws in on the sides with small fender washers, OR I'll try seeing if the included panel clips and screws that came with the speakers works better with proper alignment.

Now a few pics...

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Finally found some GTR wheels they dont come up for sale often down in Australia

http://i68.tinypic.com/2rmmayo.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/u4y9qQx.jpg

So I tried pulling down on the latch ring as per your suggestion.I don't know what the strut pressures are,one finger pulling down on it ain't going to do it,& I'm in pretty good shape.It actually feels quite heavy when I close it by hand.Maybe the strut is too new,but this is one tight hatchback.We used to install several of these on new helicopters when I was working.Each cabin ,baggage and sub doors had different working pressures and part numbers as denoted by the last three numbers of the strut part number so we knew which strut went on each door with reference to the parts and maintenance manuals.The clear tape is paying dividends.:tiphat:

Drove the Z in the rain... :mad:

But before it rained, i was able to test the new front swaybar in some neat curvy roads. Car feels awesome :excited:

Did a little something today. And right as soon as I got everything buttoned up, a freakin' typhoon dropped on us!

http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v...54100298-5.jpg

Before...
http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v...54100484-5.jpg

After...
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Oh yeah, from what people have said on the forum, the stock door speakers have foam surrounds, paper cones and are 4 ohms. Well, I beg to differ...

Cloth surrounds, poly cones, and 2 ohms! And yes, base, non-Bose system.
http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v...54100420-5.jpg

http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v...54100431-5.jpg

They must have (should have) changed the door speakers. Mine did not look like that.


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The more I play around with crossover, levels, time alignment and EQ, the better they sound. I'm quite impressed with the stock door speakers so far. They're really not all that bad.

Of course, adding the HushMat to the doors and adding the Waver Breaker behind the speakers improved things. Well worth the time.

NISMO Roadster Conversion
 

Finished my NISMO conversion on my Roadster.... Permagrin


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/...29e22880_z.jpg20170804_151013 by XComms Z, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4427/...bb6c03a1_z.jpg20170804_150952 by XComms Z, on Flickr


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4413/...385cfaea_z.jpg20170804_200910 by XComms Z, on Flickr

Looks great!!

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Beautiful Roadster Xcomms!!!!

Did a little bit of cleaning up today. I wasn't totally happy with the head unit wiring that I did originally, so I neatened that up. Also added the USB to 5 pin adapter so I can use the stock USB in the center console. After that, I cleaned up the exterior by removing those Shine Auto rear bumper add-ons. They just don't look right on this car, especially after being lowered. Lastly, I gave the ole' girl a quick wash.

Oh, I also ordered a handbrake bypass and iSimple 3.5mm AUX panel mount to go in the stock location in the center console. I wired the handbrake wire of the head unit to ground, and it works with the menus. However, today I tried playing a DVD and it wouldn't display the image. It was playing as I could hear it, but no video.

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My Nismo is sitting in my garage, all sad because I can't drive it. :(

Looks awesome. I recommend blacked out headlights.

Agreed....
 

Thanks Axmea?! Modeled it a bit after yours as you know...And Cooltoy photoshopped the overall roadster concept for me a few months back. I love it in the pearl. There is a guy on here who did the same in blue and it is incredible too!

Ya the headlights are definitely next. Problem is I am 100% NOT the guy to open these up after sticking them in an oven. I will end up messing them up in two seconds! I had the the paint shop install the back bumper for me but I installed the skirts and front bumper but the headlight thing freaks me out. And if I mess it up (which is very likely) it is an expensive mistake!

I really want to get it done though because man.... the headlights like yours and some of the others on here are incredible!!!

You can shift one handed can't ya?

Well I ended up pulling out the head unit once again, this time to install the e-brake bypass thingie and an AUX jack. Before buttoning everything up, I connected and fired up the Pioneer to see if the bypass worked, and it did/does. Plays DVD's and everything now.

After that, I decided on a good spot to install the AUX jack, drilled a hole and mounted it. Then came the part of finally running the "Auto TA/EQ" function. For some odd reason, it had the output level of the door speakers way down at -16 and -17. All I could hear was the dash speakers. It also threw the crossover way up at 8 kHz and jacked the treble way up. Horrible!

Then again, it might have something to do with the old TOTL Onkyo receiver calibration mic I'm currently using. My main concern is proper time alignment than anything else. I can do levels and EQ myself.

Anyway...

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Looks good... I am going to add one of these to the armrest cubby I think:

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1502310569

I probably shouldn't tell you this, but probably all you needed to do to bypass that parking brake would have been to wire the parking wire to ground.
That's what I did to bypass for my Kenwood. Pretty sure it works the same on Pioneer.

I was thinking of that also, but I didn't want to lose a "power port" as they call them these days, and I didn't want to drill a hole that large into any of the panels. I also didn't want to have something like that mounted under the dash, just hanging out there in the open. But that's just me.

That's how I had it originally, but it still didn't get me into the entire menu nor did it allow DVD's to play. That's why I decided to buy that bypass.

It unfortunately doesn't work the same for pioneer... you have to get the little bypass jobbie.. I had a kenwood in my 350z though and like you said, I was just able to ground the parking brake wire.

Right on.. I am hoping I can add it into the armrest cubby without deleting the existing power port but I haven't look terribly hard to make sure there is enough room around it for that. I actually want to add two - this one for the stereo and a dual USB one for updating my ALP and ASWC.

Updating the ALP and ASWC? What is the ALP? And why would one need to update the ASWC?

Sounds like the resistance for your hatch is quite a bit stronger than my 2011. Mine takes a bit of a pull, but easily done with one finger. The tricky part is pulling your hand out before getting severed off! I should probably invest in the clear tape as well as my gf won't risk losing a finger either :icon17:

You can wire up a regular SPDT relay to work as a bypass for pioneer radios also.
Terminal 86 gets wired to the remote turn on from the headunit, terminals 85 and 87 get wired to ground, and terminal 30 connects to the parking brake wire.

Sorry I live in a world of acronyms at work and just get used to it... ALP = Antilaser Priority laser jammers. They require periodic firmware updates for new LIDAR guns coming out... And for the ASWC, honestly not much point to wiring them in other than it would let me mess with the button configurations a little. Mostly because I would buy a dual USB mount thingy and might as well wire up both ports... Then if I install something else I could wire that in and ditch the connection the ASWC.

There you have it!

Getting my car tuned @ pellegrini performance group

Used the rear tires to shoot rocks and stones into the moron behind me laying on her horn because I was stopped at a green light due to construction happening.

Even a blind hog finds an acorn every now and then :)

New client down a gravel road has asked me out to the site several times already. Lowered my comprehensive deductible on the Z to $100 this morning after a getting a rock chip yesterday. Another rock this morning added a nice crack that will probably require replacing the windshield. Good timing :tup:

:icon17: My auto insurance comprehensive deductible has always been at $100.00

:ugh2: It sure came in handy when someone dropped a rake off a freeway over pass onto my 2010 Nismo recently

Repaint that Bitch :rock:

Where did you find this?

$10 on Amazon =) Search "USB Mount AUX"

New clutch and rebuilt flywheel.

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