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Actually the speedhut stuff looks so much better, I recommend doing them all anyhow. The broken board was a blessing in disguise Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Old 12-18-2017, 01:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Actually the speedhut stuff looks so much better, I recommend doing them all anyhow. The broken board was a blessing in disguise


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Old 12-18-2017, 04:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You did the samething that I did with the oil pressure gauge. Change out the 100 to 150 psi. A heads up. The 150 psi gauge uses a different sender, and you have to use it. Otherwise the gauge is pegged all the time. Don't ask how I know. And my gauge used a different plug at the gauge. So instead of running the new wiring harness. I changed the plug.
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Old 12-18-2017, 11:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
You did the samething that I did with the oil pressure gauge. Change out the 100 to 150 psi. A heads up. The 150 psi gauge uses a different sender, and you have to use it. Otherwise the gauge is pegged all the time. Don't ask how I know. And my gauge used a different plug at the gauge. So instead of running the new wiring harness. I changed the plug.


I’m glad to hear 150 is enough. I think the high oil pressure bypass opens right about 100 psi. (Which seems high but has been confirmed normal (at least for cool oil) by several sources. It feels creepy having an oil gauge pegged most of the time.
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Old 12-18-2017, 11:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Cold idle is around 105 to 115. It stays there for a few minutes then drops to 38 to 40 psi. Once the rpms starts to come up around 2000. The pressure starts to raise too. It will go to around 115 to 125 psi around 6000 rpms. This is what I know with my limited time with the gauge. Now I can see why the 3.7 will blow out the galley gaskets. I have the warning lights set to 25 psi for low and 135 for high.
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