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Wstar, not sure I could answer your questions. If you would copy and paste them in the write up Forged did. Sharif would defiantly have the proper answer and spec
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Wstar, not sure I could answer your questions. If you would copy and paste them in the write up Forged did. Sharif would defiantly have the proper answer and spec that went into my build.
All I can say is my cage was build to a cetain spec with the mind set of going to a six point cage (maybe more) in the future. So that could have a lot to do with the design your seeing. Also the sizing of the DOM is all spec also. Sorry I couldn't be more informative.
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#4 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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wow man that looks pretty bad *** man!!!!
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#5 (permalink) |
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Well, I am meticulous about these things in general, but the problem is the scene around here is far more centered on NHRA when it comes to builders. The only reasonably-priced builders all work on drag cars in high volumes. They do know how to build safe cages to professional specs, just not NASA/SCCA specs necessarily. I found a couple shops within range that know about NASA/SCCA rules, but they're asking for ~4x the price for the same pipes, same welding, same specs, etc. So if I did (or when I do) put in a cage, it will likely be me carrying a copy of the relevant rules down to a very reputable NHRA-based shop here to have them do the work. One in particular that I've been looking at, about 2 hours away, is also well-versed in doing LeMons cars, so that should carry over some as well.
But in any case, I've dropped the idea of putting in a 4-point for now. Going to wait until a full cage makes sense. See this thread: Rollbar / seats / harness stuff, yet again.... Also, Spohn, when I've been looking over cage specs myself, I'm concerned about your 1.75x.095 build. Seems like for NASA (if you plan to do NASA TT stuff), 1.75x.095 is only allowed if you can get the car under 3000 lbs comp weight, otherwise you'll need 1.75x.120. Or did you have some plan to get under 3K somehow? Edit: it could also be, of course, that I don't fully understand the build rules. Maybe you can step down a size when you've got more than the required minimum tubing (e.g. extra rear cross-bracing like you've already got). Still, I'd look into it on my own if I were you. Last edited by wstar; 02-14-2012 at 11:00 AM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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As for now or a couple of years to come I don't plan to run any NASA events. Maybe in due time when more time and money is there. I am trying to shave as much weight as I can and keep it streetable. I'd like to see what it's at now. it needs to be cornered balanced soon. Im about to get a lighter battery and move it to the rear, remove radio, speakers, and front beam off the front. So that on top of all I have done is pretty significant. So I am working on getting it to the lowest weight.
As far as detailed specs I'm unsure of the actual rules/ specs. I really should read up on them. I put a lot of faith and trust in Forged Performance where it takes the guess work out for me. They know what to do inside and out.
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
The rest is a good tradeoff, I've been running radio-free for a while now. Even travis's car though, which I suspect is about the pinnacle of where yours or mine would ever end up at (well, except I'd like mine to have a working engine ) can't get down to 3K competition weight I don't think.Oh, and NASA CCR link: http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/ccr.pdf |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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If you run a TT kit you can't run this anyways due to the large intercooler. I know it wouldn't be recommended by some. Soon enough the AC will be compromised also. Let me get through this summer.
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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#15 (permalink) |
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