Lol what are you trying to get at? I hope you're not trying to say that you at 6psi almost made the same power I did at 8psi because that will open up a can of worms you don't want to open right now.

http://www.the370z.com/582406-post1403.html

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...s-here-36.html

Shumby, stop whining and making excuses and put that smaller pulley on!

LOL i have seen tony's thread for the first time. this is disapointing. We were both talking to eachother off the record. I am not impressed that he posted this. there is more to the story

He can't though. CFM is king when it comes to making power. You can't keep adding boost because CFM goes up to dangerous levels. The killer isn't PSI, its CFM...
You can't put on a 8psi pulley and make 4 psi and then fix it by putting in a 16psi pulley and make 8psi. The motor will blow from the CFM. I think you can get away with a 10psi pulley on the motor, but that would put it too close to the limit for my liking.

Not to mention the fact that I think 10psi pulley is out of the efficiency range of his SC housing? I may be totally wrong, but I thought thats why there were different stages for the GTM sc.

I only have the 6 PSI pully on right now. I still have one more pully to go.

Oh ok, thats good to hear.

As I said, I'm trying to look for a local dynojet to see how much I will put down on that. If I do, I'll post so we can compare something a *little* more concrete.

Man all this "off the record" talk is what turns the whole thing into a bunch of BS lol

When you start a thread to update, people expect updates.. Don't just go MIA for a week then come back claiming LTHs were a fail with the SC when there's "more to it"

Now now Sam, don't :stirthepot: with Shumby on my thread, go do it on his :bowrofl:

I'm staying out of this one.

no there is no more to the LTH fail with GTM SC. that is fact. Fact also is the GTM's TP's also fail with the SC. There is bad blood here and I wll not get in the middle of it. I did not go missingfor a week i was driving back home and took one day off. so don't even go there. all issues I had with my car are posted and can be talked about. I will hide nothing that i know about personally. It is just too bad that the shops down there in cali cannot get along a bit better and help each other out. It would make things better for all of us.

Sorry RCZ had to reply.



On a side note you going to the track anytime soon. I want to do a fw 1/4 mile runs to see what I can do. I don't expect much as I have never done a drag race before on a real track

I haven't been dragging too much either, but I do plan on hopefully doing it sometime. Closest one is an hour away though (i Think), so its kinda a bitch to get over there.

We'll see. Maybe "soon to be a gtr's worst nightmare" can fly down and drag the car for me. ;)

Sorry for whoring up your thread RCZ

Said like a wise man Shumby.. I'll leave it here

Jon,

If you are installing the normal kit, don't worry about tuning. You won't need to, the boost was perfect on mine. I could have saved some money by using Stillen's tune. If you tune it yourself, you don't get the warranty, that is right. What I would do is call up Josh and ask him if they will warranty a kit installed by Jnaut. He has a legit shop and full tools and as we have seen, he can install this kit no problem. I would put my name on the line and recommend having him install it. I have full confidence in his work.

When the S/C time comes I might have to take you up on your offer,:tup: I'll prob save more taking it to jnaut. Plus he has experence now since he's already installed yours vs. some Nissan guy that honestly cares 0% about my car. When you say "normal kit", are you talking about the carb kit or race kit?

The carb kit. The tuner kit you would have to tune yourself because it comes without fuel and without tuning. You will save money.

I know you have a full stillen set-up & you made 390whp (mustang), Im curious to see how much more power I'd make with my full Fast Intentions set-up. I thought you would have actually made more power on the mustang dyno since stillen claims 515hp for the carb kit. And yes I know different dynos read differently, but a drivetrain loss of 125hp seems kinda high to me. I thought it would have at least made at least 420Whp-ish on a mustang dyno.

You assume you will make more power because you have FI pipes, I'm not really sure why. Not really sure where you saw that they make more power than the Stillen setup? All the guys I've seen with the crazy numbers like 320-330whp on mustang dynos on bolt-ons are running Stillen cats and exhaust.

You have to remember a couple of factors when you look at my numbers. 1) Mustang dynos read lower than your average dyno like the dynojet Stillen and GTM use. So to say that 125hp is all drivetrain loss is unfair. Part of it is drivetrain loss, I'd say about 12% is drivetrain loss. So right off the bat take off about ~45hp from your 515 advertised.

2) As I mentioned Mustangs read lower than dynojets by a good 7-10% (take my baseline as proof. I dynoed in at 256whp on the mustang dyno, when the average baseline for a dynojet is 275whp) So you can substract another ~35hp.

3) The tune is not maxed out. We had to leave some margin of safety considering the ambient temperature and humidity down here in FL. It was 90 degrees here last night around 2AM. (I know you know) I track the car now and then so I can't afford to sacrifice safety over performance.

4) It was about 100 degrees ambient temp when I got tuned. (not much can be done about that)

Now in reality all these numbers are just numbers. They don't really mean anything. What you have to look at is the following... Stillen started at 276 and ended at 438. Thats a 58% increase in power. I started at 256 and ended at 383, that's a 50% gain. Once you factor in ambient temps, humidity, safety margin and the fact that we only really did 3 runs to get final numbers then I think its perfectly understandable to lose 5-10% in power. If I had been gunning for dyno queen numbers I would've done low temp runs with a bunch of ice in the reservoir. That wasn't the goal though.

One thing I noticed today when I went out to get some video is that oil temp really is a killer on these cars. I'm by no means overheating, but even at 220 degrees the car probably loses a good 30whp. I think I might invest a little money on heat shielding, a fan for the oil cooler and maybe even a cryo2 setup.

I can definitely relate to the whole ambient temp issue especially during tuning. My car is N/A and my Uprev tuner had to put quite a large safety margin when tuning the ignition timing on my car because it was 130+F ambient temps and did not want any detonation to happen. He said that if I came back next winter I can gain another 10whp just by advancing the ignition timing (I made 20whp from his tune). Florida's humid summers make it even worse.

Anyone with racing experience or a racing background want to give me some ideas to manage engine bay heat?

I'm looking at gold foil, but I want to see what other tips folks can give me. Any ideas will be appreciated.

http://www.elephantmotorsports.com/h...old-p-526.html

Biggest thing with engine bay heat is extracting the hot air.

A vented hood should work pretty well. If you had the space (which I don't think the Z does) you could actually use fans to help pull air out of the engine bay. Who knows, there might be enough space in there to rig something up. But at the very least, a nicely vented hood should help quite a bit!

More pics of chairs.

I'd say heat soak in the engine bay raising the air intake temperature causes the real issue. Oil temp isn't really the issue but people associate the two because the temps often move together. Heat soak is much more of a problem on the street than it is on the track, on the track you normally have enough air moving through the engine bay and enough air moving through the intakes to keep temps reasonable.

The following is what most people experience on the street. Start up the cold car in the morning, drive for 10 minutes conservatively while it warms up. When they see the oil temp has hit 180 they go for a bit of a sprint, power feels good. Slow back down, sit at a traffic light for 2 minutes, engine bay temps climb, intakes and manifold temps climb. Go to take off from the traffic light and instantly feel the loss in power.

Not sure what the best solution would be for the street. Insulating as much of the intake as possible might help resist the heat for a little while, at least until you get moving again at highway speeds to cool things back down.

You're exactly right. That is a very common situation for me. So I am trying to keep the engine bay a bit cooler. I'm trying to avoid having to get a vented hood just yet and would like to maximize what I can do now. Also, although I'm not really all that worried about water getting in (and concern has grown since the SC installation because there are somewhat exposed cables now) it does make a mess of things inside the bay when the elements can seep in.

I was thinking about lining the charge pipe with gold foil to keep heat from radiating everywhere else. I'm only hesitant because that pipe gets really hot...just need to find out how hot. Im guessing under 200 degrees so I'll be fine with the gold foil. Also, maybe lining the new intake manifold with foil can help keep heat out of it.

ALA CBRD Evo.
http://image.importtuner.com/f/30472...motor_shot.jpg

The gold foil is best at reflecting radiant heat (i.e. keeping heat out), not sure how well it would work at keeping heat in as that heat would be conductive not radiant.

EXACTLY, I thought about that and the answer would be to wrap in some kind of header wrap type material. It would look ugly though...I'm talking to the guys from Heat shield thermal insulation to see what they think...

What about some sort of insulating coating? Like ceramic or something to keep heat in?

EDIT: Found what I needed.

I strongly recommend mounting this to your hood to solve your cooling issues RCZ. Dont worry, I wont charge you for my mechanical recommendation.

http://interiordesigningblog.com/wp-...onditioner.jpg

RCZ

I am awaiting arrival of the SC (FedEx says 28th)!! I was just curious what are your current specs for your alignment. Do you think you need to make any changes to alignment because of the extra power? As of now my alignment is a tad bit negative then stock spec. I was thinking of returning the rear back to factory spec just to get some more tire on the road. What do you think?

get some gold tin foil and wrap everything. bling and good heat rejection

Haha, I'll put that in the maybe pile.

I'm running very negative right now and its fine. I guess I could use a bit more traction in the rear, but in all honesty I'd rather have the cornering grip since straight line acceleration can be modulated a bit and its not all that bad with my NT05's. If I had the stock tires on, I'd probably be suffering a bit right now.

I found a company that does coatings that can reduce surface temps by up to 400 degrees. That should do it.

What your take on your current tires?

awesome tires. grippy and predictable.

I have been out of the loop for awhile. Kit and car look great!

Anyways, I couldn't find a dyno sheet anywhere. Any way you can post one?

How's the iCarbon thing going?

Whatcha running right now? Im going to need some tires this winter probably :(

Here you go. The dotted line is a random run we did while tuning a few months back. Its just for curve comparison purposes...

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1277405923

iCarbon, they are taking their time. I'm starting to think I should get it done myself....



NItto NT-05's

And dynojet numbers, AGAIN 100 degree ambient temperature. Video of the runs coming later.

432hp/324tq

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1277841829

Man that looks amazing!!

Did Stillen use STD or SAE CF? Anyhow, those are very good numbers.

Upper right hand corner

I dont know what stillen used, but STD mine was at like 450 i think...

I love how the curves look very OEM! Very impressive