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Trial and error. Welcome to the world of custom fabrication.
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#1 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 69
Posts: 35,481
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
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Trial and error. Welcome to the world of custom fabrication.
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![]() 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html |
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#2 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
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I got to say Rusty, I found this process incredible frustrating. However, it's crazy addicting. I literally took junk bar metal in the shop and made something useful out of it. Very gratifying.
I had a lot of additional ideas going through this process... but at at some point I had to commit to a direction. It's not perfect... but hey, I guess it has character? lol ![]() |
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#3 (permalink) | |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
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Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 69
Posts: 35,481
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
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![]() 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html |
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#4 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: USA
Age: 38
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It doesn't matter if you're running stereo wires, piping an oil cooler, or going full hard-on with an engine swap, doing anything 'custom' can and likely will be a gold-plated b*itch of an experience. Kudos for keeping on it!
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#5 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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Location: NW, AZ
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Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel|3GsCustoms|Z1|Wavetrac|Hotchkis|Whiteline |Blitz|Fortune Auto 500|Fujimura|SPL|H&R|TK|TWM|RPM Rollbar|Sparco|Next Level Performance|TrackSpec|AeroFlow Dynamics|Pioneer| |
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#6 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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IG@gbrettin
Finished the crash bar, sort of. Added the last two gussets. Now I need to figure out the mount points for the radiator. Way easier than the crash bar. ---------- Same day - Not long later ---------- The bar wasn't strong up and down, but strong as heck laterally. So...Another GUSSET!!!!! WhhhhhOOOOOO.... Ok, NOW I'm done. Crash bar ready. That Maven mount looking good in the light too ----------------------------------------------- Ok, I added the the so call "final" gusset in (noted in first IG post) and thought it was definitely stronger, crazy strong laterally, but not strong enough up and down. I was going to ask my buddy Dave about it.... except he sauntered on over to the crash bar and attempted to lift the front of the car up. The car did not lift and the crash bar was just a frail bar at that given point. SOOOOOoooo....... I added vertical strength. After all this was done, Dave told me the shop is getting an order of chromoly and a really nice machine that bead rolls, break, shear, bends and copes bar stock. GD man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! He's busy as sh1t with actual paying customers... so the likely hood of him bending a new crash bar, coping and TIG welding one is like 5%. I say 5% because it's a new toy and he may want to try it out. However, this now means I can make a legitimate strong airbox. On a different note... I had to to bug my dude about an oil pan. He said he will get on it this week. He typically sticks to his word so I'm not really worried. There's also a market he can sell the rear sump LS 370z pans too. Extra motivation? Maybe... SHoot... I need to tell him to put a bung right on the oil reservoir so that I can add a check valve and attach the Accusump direct to that. Might as well fill the oil right where it's needed. I also learned from when I put my Morosso pan on that the LS oil pickup tube has a weird design flaw. The engineers only have one bolt that bolts into the oil pump. Very odd. If the pickup tube is not fully seated into the oil pump then it could create an oil starvation issue. It's like drinking from a straw with a hole. ICT Billet has an LS oil pickup girdle for 25 bucks. Already threw the kitchen sink at the engine, so what's another part... right? Last edited by gbrettin; 08-12-2020 at 10:32 AM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
Track Member
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Bang-a-rang
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#9 (permalink) | |
Track Member
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One of the cool characters was Rufio and when he did something perceived as cool, his crew would yell out "Bang-a-rang, Rufio". So a very nerdy version of "Super cool, man" from me to you. ![]()
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'16 Pearl White Sport | Stillen Gen. 3 | Motordyne ART | Motordyne Shockwave | ZSpeed | Powertrix | EVO-R | Aeroworkz | Nismo | Z1 | EcuTek | Tuned by Seb @ SpecialtyZ |
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#11 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Got a bit of shop time in last night. Mounted the turbos back on the Maven mounts. Then I put a TON of tape on the radiator, not trying to mar the chrome up.
Did a few trial and error placement stuff. I don't think the radiator will be too far off from where's at. The OE frame has a TON of mounting options. I'll use a Rivnut or bolt to an existing threaded hole if possible. The cold side looks like I can loop up under the headlight to the A2W coolers, but that might change after I fiddle with the coolers. I'm going to attempt to use the A2W cooler faces as part of the structure to direct air out. No sense in adding material if I don't have to. It was an easier night.. totally good with it. Not sure if I said this in a different post; but, I plan on using the carbon fiber ducts in front to funnel air into air boxes for the turbos. Last edited by gbrettin; 08-13-2020 at 10:41 AM. |
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#14 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
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Drives: Tricycle
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Picked up some steel and aluminum to get the mounting brackets around. I cut the Aluminum angle to length but need my buddy to TIG weld it.
First thing that was done was to trim the plastic on the radiator and tape it back off. As much as I love function, I want the parts to look good when this is all completed. The steel portion I was able to get done. A couple holes were drilled for the mounting location and inserted nuts into the steel stock and then welded them in place. To get the location, the steel stock was held at the mounting point and a marker was used to draw the whole location. I then used a center punch directly in the middle, drilled a pilot hole and then hogged to a larger hole. After I had the steel stock tacked onto the crash bar I needed to trim off the excess metal. The corners we poking directly into the bumper. The bumper is close to the radiator but doesn't hit. I should look into making a couple mounting points there to hold the nose of the Nismo bumper up better. A lot of older Nismo bumpers sag down a bit (not a lot). There's limited gap on the crash bar on each. The gap will be sealed off at some point, likely when I make an air box that joins up to the Nismo bumper. Excess heavy stock will be cut out and sheet metal will be used in place. When I posted all the pictures below in IG, the perspective was all messed up because the images get cut down. Last edited by gbrettin; 08-17-2020 at 08:51 AM. |
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#15 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 69
Posts: 35,481
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
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Question. You going to install a bleed vent near the top of the radiator?
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