Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

Rusty

When you wire brush the welds. Use a stainless brush. Otherwise a carbon steel brush will leave particulies in the piping and will rust.

On the wire jam. It's called bird nesting. What you have is minor. You may have too much tension on the rollers.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

gbrettin

Thanks dude!

gbrettin

IG@gbrettin:
Couple posts back I cut off the pinch weld, MIG welded and then flapper sanded smooth. I did that to accommodate the 3" down pipe which will be meet with a boost actuated dump and a 2.5" merge to my Fast Intentions exhaust. The plan is coming together, oh yes!

Had a few questions on clearance. ���� Snake-zilla ���� has quite the path to wind to make it up to the exhaust manifolds. I made sure that the front wheels were cranked all the way, right and left. Both sides have 1/4 inch at full lock. The down pipes are going to be on the inside loop of the up pipes (shown on last picture). All of that fits. Not bad for an amateur.
-----------------------------------------------



Driver Side








Passenger Side

gbrettin

Oh, one last thing. I ordered 2.5 - 3" transition so I can weld that directly to my turbo. I think the boots on the turbo look tacky. Personal preference thing.

Rusty

You're going to need more than a 1/4" clearance. When Corning hard. The tires and rims flex some. Keep that in mind.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

gbrettin

That's full lock. I don't think I hit full lock on the ToTD. I need to take a look to see if I can claw back a bit more space.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

gbrettin

Video of what happened in the pictures above. I like how this video turned out, finally. The video has pretty much the meat of what was happening and I still managed to capture all the win/fail stuff. And yes, there is some fail in the video.

Re-uploaded due to copy right sh1t...

gbrettin

IG@gbrettin
Tick Performance valley pan installed. No filter required. Let the billet-ness overwhelm you mind

------------------------

Pulled the plenum off my car last night in preparation for a few things.

1. I wanted to get the new valley pan on (made a quick video of that. Will post later).
2. I can work on my down pipes with out a bunch of obstacles in my way.
3. The engine has to be removed for the oil pan installation (hopefully happens soon...)
4. The heads need to be drilled and tapped. I stripped off a bunch of the plenum bolts. Yup, that really happened. The bolts will be changed from M6 to M8 so that there is more bite putting them in. The plenum is a HUGE pain in the azz because they are not connected in anyway. A cross over needs to be added in somewhere so maybe I will cut the back side of the plenum and join it there. I really want a duel plenum, but I question this turd sometimes.

Reminder why the valley pan was swapped. The back side of the LS has a pressure sensor in valley pan. ICT did not have the oil sensor location so I upgraded. I paid a bit more for the Tick Performance because it's all billet but figured it would be a really nice piece to have because the plenum sits up so high, making the pan visible. The billet valley pan also goes with the aluminum, billet and semi gloss black theme I have going.

Side note. The Internet was kind enough to let me know when I make mistakes. I should have covered the backside of the turbo up when I was grinding my car. Metal shavings went into the exhaust housing. These are not the endgame turbos for my build but they still need to get me down the road. SO... I need to disassemble the turbo and clean that out. The only redeeming factor is that it was the exhaust housing. I'm still going to break it down. I may even send it out to Turbonetics. We'll see after I break it down. I HATE HATE HATE making stupid mistakes like that.

Anyway, I'm being completely transparent with my build. Hopefully my burning stupidity can help someone else. Or at least someone can laugh at my expense? This one really frustrated me though and I know better.

Edit -
There was talk about notching the car. Look for the black marker lines over the up-pipes. I didn't end up going that route obviously. I just wanted to explain why that's there.

Onto the pictures:

Rusty

Use Helicoils in your heads. Lock tite them in. This way, you have steel on steel contact for your bolts. Not steel and aluminum. You'll thank me later. Best thing to do is use Helicoils in all of the aluminum bolt holes. Less chance of stripping out. I did this a lot at Elliott.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

gbrettin

Tick Performance Valley Pan Install and Snow White Heads to Streetcar Takeover:

gbrettin

Having to disassemble the front end of the car for the valley pan installation forced me to take another look at the front end of the car. From the start I wanted to a forward leaning radiator boxed in. Truth be told, I wasn't fully happy with the placement of the A2W IC in front of the radiator. My whole goal with this car is to produce the best result I can possible do. Knowing that the airflow is not optimal, creating drag and inefficient cooling wasn't going to cut it. The time frame for this year and the corvid experience has made it so there is no sense of urgency to have the car running. There's simply no reason to take a short cut, and it weighed heavy on me that I was taking a short cut.

I remedied that with action. I am 100% moving forward with a forward leaning and boxed in radiator. I'm not going to completely duct the air out the hood but I will have ducts shooting towards hood vents (on my non existent pin on hood as of right now).

Moving forward...
The mount bar was cut leaving the two turbos to hang by themselves. I'll need to cut down an extra plate of metal and weld it to the existing flat stock; then drill some holes so that a bolt can go into existing threaded crash bar holes. The bar that was removed between the two turbos is an absolute perfect fit for the front bumper curve. I'm going to use that for a legitimate crash bar. I need to use some more tube stock to get it in the vicinity shown in the last picture. The crash bar will also serve as a mounting location for the radiator.

The hurdles...
I found a pretty nice radiator to use: CSF R1 Radiator

The problem is this: I am going to keep AC so I need an AC condenser unit and I don't know jack **** about it (I know enough to be dangerous). If any of you guys know of a separate system that is unmarried from the radiator, I'm all ears. Well, that's what I'm going to research.

Someone grabbed my phone and started taking pictures of me working. The action shots are rare. lol

Edit - I went to Streetcar Takeover last weekend. My buddy said he wanted to get faster than "14.0", mentioned in my last video. He got 11.2 on a low power setting being 50% or so in the throttle the whole time (I saw the data log). He was happy having it out and that was the first run on any track with his fresh build. He expects to go 8's in the future; however, he was VERY nervous at the event. I 100% understand why. He built it. That sounds funny to say, but there's no factory testing. Stuff can go wrong or really bad. It's best to ease into it. Also, jumping into 1000whp animal (yes, that's not high boost) is pretty nuts. For all the 1000+hp builds you see on the Internet... I'm willing to bet most people haven't experienced over 500.

Anyway, I wanted to give that little bit of information since I mentioned it in the video.

Rusty

You might want to look at the A/C set-up on a 3G Ram trucks (05 to 10). The radiator is on one side and the condenser is on the other side. They are not piggy backed. The condenser has it's own electric fan.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

gbrettin

Since the bar has been pushed out further I wanted additional surface area over the mounting point so I cut up some scrap metal, sanded a bit and drilled a whole. I cut the tabs using an angle grinder because the Harbor Freight bandsaw gave up on life. The shop has an industrial bandsaw waiting to be setup, which I need to continue the hotside.

It was a real b1tch one man wrestling bar stock around trying to tack some welds. It pretty much got to the point where the bar was in the right spot and I zapped at the seam getting it to stay. Then I put a thicker tack on. This is the downside of building something late at night. Overall, I'm Very happy with the new direction so far.

I'm going to add gussets in the corners for strength; although, After it's TIG welded (by my buddy) it should be REALLY strong.

If you are curious about the metal type, Rusty, it's mild steel. I'm not sure the exact wall thickness or alloy. It was "hey, this looks like it will work." *pulls from metal pile*. The price was right... Free.

I ended up pulling the trigger on CSF. It's already set up for AN fittings (money saver), the dimensions are right, it's meant to be v-mounted and it looks good. I came to the conclusion I will worry about AC down the road... probably when it's really hot out and wonder why I didn't do it sooner.

gbrettin

These pictures happened over the last few days so I'll attempt to give context.
Wed:
While the crash bar was tacked up I tried to bend one side up. In doing so I broke the tacks and everything fell down. The welder was not turned up to lava to penetrate the steel properly. I pretty much got pistoff/frustrated and threw in the towel that night. Prior to making the crash bar fall apart I made gussets. I used the angle grinder and sanding disk to make them from scrap. Gussets will add significant strength to the bar. The bar is angled upwards a tad. I did that because I wanted to be able to get the bolts on/off easy. Downside with that is that it would be weak(er) if it were raised up higher in the middle. I have ideas that could be way better... but that's falling down a new rabbit hole. No thanks.

Thur
Fast forward to the next day. I came out to the shop, mentally refreshed, to retack and set the gussets up but find out someone took the shop extension cord for the welder. This isn't some regular extension cord either. It's 8 gauge for 220. All the hardware stores are closed because it took me a while to get out to the shop. Defeated again!

Fri
New CSF radiator arrives mid day, renewed ambition. Head out to the shop and do a test fit. <-- Bung to Bung --> the radiator fits perfectly! The higher bung must go on the driverside. If the radiator is flipped the other way the bung will be right in the area of the hot side; not immediately but, the -16 would 100% be impossible to route. Look at the dimensional picture in the previous post to see how the bungs are set up. ... Rough test fit ... Check.

I located a different 8 gauge cord. The ends are missing and I want to weld; so, I head off to Lowes and Home Depot to get supplies. Why two stores? because one store never has all the stuff I need. That's the way of life and I've come to accept it, especially with plumbing.

The new ends are put on cord and voila, the welder has life! Now I get started with the crash bar, take 2. I turned the welder up to lava melt and increased the line feed. It's clear this is burning into the metal now and laying thick beads. I got excited and rip welds everywhere I could, in a short amount of time... it's Friday and I'm not trying to be at the shop all night while my wife sits at home. Anyway, I was able to fill in some gaps and get the metal grinded back.

I guess this is a long winded way of saying stuff doesn't go smoothly doing custom stuff. Not for me anyway.

gbrettin

IG@gbrettin:
Filled all the gaps, laid some heavy weld and added the gussets. I'm completely happy with the results. I'm starting to get the hang of welding with MIG. Also, if anyone was wondering how the turbos are mounted, look into Maven mounts.

--------------

Next up... Mounting tabs. I'll knock that out later in the week.