JLarson's build thread

[JLarson]

It has begun.

Prepped a bit Friday night. Quickjack in place, tools out and ready, but I really didn't get started until Saturday morning around 7:30. Father-in-law showed up to pretty much watch and hand me occasional tools around 8:30. My order of operations was roughly as follows:

1) Remove undertray and front fascia.
2) Remove intakes and crash bar.
3) Remove throttle bodies and upper plenum.
4) Plug lower plenum to prevent debris entering engine.
5) Remove CBE. By that time, my dad arrived bringing a propane heater (hero) and started working on the passenger side header. With the tools I had, he removed 5/6 bolts and studs on that side before having to head out. The last bolt and stud were in an awkward position for my tools on hand, so I ordered a set of double ended box wrenches with offset heads through Amazon to see if that would solve my problem. Meanwhile, I started tackling the driver's side header.
6) Removed driver's side header. Amazingly, it took maybe 2 hours at most, and slid right out. I marked the steering knuckle to easily replace it later.
7) Attempted drivers side motor mount. Even with the header removed, I could not get a good angle of attack, and rounded it slightly without making noticeable progress. Figured that was enough fun for one day, called it quits around 5.

[JLarson]

In addition to playing guitar for a heavy metal band, I also lead worship at Church, so I got a late start on Sunday. Stopped at an Autozone on my way home from services, got a few adapters for my 1/4" drive sockets.

1) Went back after passenger side header with proper angle. With a brief prayer (OH LORD - LET NOT THY SERVANT STRIP THIS NUT) I broke it loose, and passenger's side came free. Nice.
2) Removed O2 sensors from LTH.
3) Cleaned up studs and nuts from driver's and passengers side. These are considered a re-order wear item by Nissan, and I've got replacements on the way, but most were still in good shape with intact threads.
4) There is better access to the passenger side motor mount than drivers side. After sizing it up, I set an impact socket on the top nut of the motor mount, held it in place manually, and with a flex joint + extension, tried breaking it loose. No good. It vibrated for a bit, and then rounded off the corners of the nut. Bollocks. Considered this for a little while and shot a text to Joby, who has been a solid resource throughout this process. He pointed out that many sockets have a beveled edge, and the upper portion of the nut ALSO has a beveled edge, so the area where the socket was applying grip was exceedingly limited. My next option would be to either find a socket where it's flush and a bit undersized and hammer it onto the nut, or I've got some extractors which I could try. If I'm sold on removing that nut, I'm sure it can be done.
5) Re-ordered the passenger side studs per the FSM for OEM headers (note for those with Fast Intentions Headers, the FI uses a different stud pattern than factory) and installed the passenger side header and heat shield.

That was enough for Sunday.

[JLarson]

My goal is to continue knocking out small projects during the more limited evenings this week.

Monday's accomplishments:
1) Swapped spark plugs. Sasha includes the 1-step colder NGK with the BP kit. Old ones were about what you'd expect for 64k miles, considering I'm not a harsh driver - still in decent shape.
2) For clearance, the BP turbo kit requires removal of the 2 support braces which connect to the hood latches. Done.
3) The power steering cooler brackets need to be removed and flipped to get better clearance from the cooler. Done. Also this was where I formally invested my blood in the project, since I punched the cooler fins lightly when a bolt broke loose. As a side note, those brackets are 2 pieces. Insert a screwdriver between them and pry to get them to pop loose if they are stuck and do not come off by hand.
4) Removed drivers side air guide and plastic in front of the driver's side wheel to allow for routing of intercooler piping.
5) Installed oil cooler bracket and oil cooler. Did a rough routing of the lines into the engine bay underneath the washer fluid reservoir, but may move them later.

[madwi]

Originally Posted by JLarson

My goal is to continue knocking out small projects during the more limited evenings this week.

Monday's accomplishments:
1) Swapped spark plugs. Sasha includes the 1-step colder NGK with the BP kit. Old ones were about what you'd expect for 64k miles, considering I'm not a harsh driver - still in decent shape.
2) For clearance, the BP turbo kit requires removal of the 2 support braces which connect to the hood latches. Done.
3) The power steering cooler brackets need to be removed and flipped to get better clearance from the cooler. Done. Also this was where I formally invested my blood in the project, since I punched the cooler fins lightly when a bolt broke loose. As a side note, those brackets are 2 pieces. Insert a screwdriver between them and pry to get them to pop loose if they are stuck and do not come off by hand.
4) Removed drivers side air guide and plastic in front of the driver's side wheel to allow for routing of intercooler piping.
5) Installed oil cooler bracket and oil cooler. Did a rough routing of the lines into the engine bay underneath the washer fluid reservoir, but may move them later.

Aaaaand before I can fly in, the kit will be installed.

[JLarson]

Originally Posted by madwi

Aaaaand before I can fly in, the kit will be installed.

That just means we go on a restaurant tour of the area and spend time shooting bows in the yard or something.

But seriously, don't forget I still have to put the drivers side OEM header on. Studs/nuts should be here sometime this week, but contemplating removing the passenger side and putting driver's side on just so it's out of the way.

[JLarson]

Tuesday night -

Started off by coating the DEI wrap with DEI's silicon sealant. I'm not using it for the high temp application, as the DEI titanium wrap should be sufficient, but apparently it does a good job sealing and preserving the wrap. Not much to say about this yet, I'll let you know if it works.

Next project on the list was the removal of the OEM Oil Cooler from the 2012+ models. This is one area where the BP kit instructions could be improved, since it does not discuss the factory oil cooler even peripherally. I had a couple advantages here because, having played around with this stuff before, I sort of thought it might be a problem. I had preemptively ordered the oil filter stud for a 2009-2011 model from Z1, part number 15213-31U00, as well as an extra container of coolant. Good thing.

As most of you are probably aware, the OEM oil cooler uses coolant cycled through the same plate on the oil pan to which the oil filter is connected. The coolant cycles into this plate from a hard line running across the front of the engine from the drivers side, moves back across the front of the engine and into the engine somewhere near the terminus of the drivers side header.

Conveniently, during the install of my long tube headers, I had blocked off that lower terminus with a plate Fast Intentions includes with their header kit on one end, and capped off the lower pipe. (Note on this: I know some of the FI kits come with a hose instead to allow you to keep the factory oil cooler, but mine did not because I bought it used).

I did shoot a couple texts to JC Hammond, who provided the attached helpful diagram of what needs to be capped off to actually remove the factory cooler. I also did manage to spray myself in the face with coolant. Quick high level:

1) Remove hose from Upper Cap area (see 3rd attachment). Either cap off that coolant pipe AND the lower hard pipe, or bridge to the lower hard pipe. Your goal is to stop yourself from spraying coolant everywhere. Good luck.
2) Remove oil filter stud, and disconnect lines running into plate. Oil filter stud took either a 22mm or 23mm socket. Can't recall, but it was large. Remove plate entirely - don't forget the gasket (it may stick to the oil pan).
3) Install Nissan OEM oil filter stud. Your BP turbo kit plate + stud will attach to that.
4) Celebrate by having a shower, this time not in coolant.

[JLarson]

I have to add this - I'm incredibly grateful for this community. If not for you guys, I'd never have pushed myself mechanically even close to as far as I have. It's amazing how far things have gone - just a few years ago, I had no tools and no skills.

Specific thanks to Rusty, Madwi, and JC Hammond, who have volunteered their time and in some cases money to help me with my build, never asking for anything in return. Your generosity blows my mind. My wife commented the other day to her mom that it's not just a group of guys talking about cars, it's like having this extended family, and she's right.