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On old school type hydraulic clutches; You loosen the bleeder screw & have someone mash the clutch & then tighten the bleeder screw...before they let clutch backup. Unlike brakes-as you

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Old 06-23-2018, 04:24 AM   #1 (permalink)
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On old school type hydraulic clutches; You loosen the bleeder screw & have someone mash the clutch & then tighten the bleeder screw...before they let clutch backup.
Unlike brakes-as you pump them up & loosen while someone is holding pedal.

These Z clutch's may be totally different than one's i've done in the past though.
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Old 06-23-2018, 07:43 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jchammond View Post
On old school type hydraulic clutches; You loosen the bleeder screw & have someone mash the clutch & then tighten the bleeder screw...before they let clutch backup.
Unlike brakes-as you pump them up & loosen while someone is holding pedal.

These Z clutch's may be totally different than one's i've done in the past though.
We did try that. Fortunately, I'm tied in with a local Z enthusiast group, and they're giving me a hand this next week! I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 06-23-2018, 09:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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If you know the master is bled, a good option is to just gravity bleed the rest. Fill up the reservoir, open the bleeder valve, and let the fluid push the air out via gravity. As already mentioned, a clear tube can help you see the air bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve. Keep an eye on the reservoir and close the bleeder valve after the air bubbles stop and fluid drains smoothly.
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Old 06-24-2018, 05:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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If you know the master is bled, a good option is to just gravity bleed the rest. Fill up the reservoir, open the bleeder valve, and let the fluid push the air out via gravity. As already mentioned, a clear tube can help you see the air bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve. Keep an eye on the reservoir and close the bleeder valve after the air bubbles stop and fluid drains smoothly.
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Old 06-24-2018, 05:10 AM   #5 (permalink)
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We did try that. Fortunately, I'm tied in with a local Z enthusiast group, and they're giving me a hand this next week! I'll let you know how it goes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JARblue View Post
If you know the master is bled, a good option is to just gravity bleed the rest. Fill up the reservoir, open the bleeder valve, and let the fluid push the air out via gravity. As already mentioned, a clear tube can help you see the air bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve. Keep an eye on the reservoir and close the bleeder valve after the air bubbles stop and fluid drains smoothly.
I use a Mityvac for all hydraulic bleeding. It does a good job and you do not need a second person pumping pedals and getting confused about the terms "up", "down" or "hold".

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MITMV...ords=MITMV8500
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Old 06-24-2018, 08:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I never have any problem, I always use vac pump.


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Originally Posted by onzedge View Post
I use a Mityvac for all hydraulic bleeding. It does a good job and you do not need a second person pumping pedals and getting confused about the terms "up", "down" or "hold".

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MITMV...ords=MITMV8500
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Old 06-24-2018, 11:25 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I never have any problem, I always use vac pump.
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Old 06-24-2018, 05:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have run into problems with a vac pump. Ended up using a pressure bleeder.
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Old 06-27-2018, 09:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Post up here if you still have issues. The last thing to do is adjust the length of the rod going into the Master Cylinder.
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Old 06-28-2018, 07:16 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quick update: So I never did get the clutch "properly" bled. I did get it so that I could move the car into gear, albeit poorly. My attempts to bleed it ended last Thursday around this time.

Basically, I realized the z1 flywheel is not for me. It's obnoxiously loud, and that chatter really isn't a joke. I guess I should clarify - for me, I could deal with it. My wife absolutely would not.

I reached out to RT Tuning first, and they didn't get back to me; talked to my local enthusiast group, VQ Philly, and got a recommendation through them. Sent a few emails, good bit of research. Final decision is I'm swapping the Z1 clutch setup for the South Bend Quiet Disk from Zspeed, and the CMAK setup. The CMAK and flywheel arrived yesterday, friction disk and pressure plate should be in today. Z is already at the garage, and I'll be dropping the materials off today - fingers crossed, it should be done tomorrow. The proprietor has bled quite a few of these clutches without issue, and will walk me through it so that I know what I did incorrectly.

Thanks again everyone for your support!
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Old 06-28-2018, 07:19 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Sounds like a good game plan. I too ended up buying the Zspeed flywheel with quiet disc + CMAK
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Old 06-28-2018, 07:32 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I just asked Joe for the lightest and loudest flywheel he's got. He said 17 lbs but I know there's a 14 lb one floating around out there
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Old 06-28-2018, 07:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I just asked Joe for the lightest and loudest flywheel he's got. He said 17 lbs but I know there's a 14 lb one floating around out there
Haha a bold move!
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Old 06-28-2018, 11:55 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I just asked Joe for the lightest and loudest flywheel he's got. He said 17 lbs but I know there's a 14 lb one floating around out there
Yeah, there is a 14 pounder.
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:48 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Update with the happy ending: car is back and running great! I'll follow this with 2 other posts, the first entitled "how not to install your flywheel" and the 2nd as a review of the South Bend Stage 3 setup + quiet disk + CMAK.
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