JLarson's build thread

[Spooler]

Originally Posted by JLarson

The one in the engine bay i assume, right where it exits the mc?

The one right off the MC. Yes. If this doesn't get it done let me know. The next questions will be on how you adjusted the rod from the MC where it connects to the clutch pedal. With your eccentric on Zero, you should have about 1/8in of play before you feel the pedal make contact with the pressure plate. So it should be kinda floppy in the 1/8in. If it is tight all the way at the top, it won't bleed correctly either. It will be kinda challenging since we have that stupid return spring on the clutch pedal. Not sure if you have it on the RJM pedal. I just got done feeding the horses and re-doing waters. It's 11:00pm and I am sweating, Welcome to the south Ga. heat for me.

[JLarson]

Originally Posted by Spooler

The one right off the MC. Yes. If this doesn't get it done let me know. The next questions will be on how you adjusted the rod from the MC where it connects to the clutch pedal. With your eccentric on Zero, you should have about 1/8in of play before you feel the pedal make contact with the pressure plate. So it should be kinda floppy in the 1/8in. If it is tight all the way at the top, it won't bleed correctly either. It will be kinda challenging since we have that stupid return spring on the clutch pedal. Not sure if you have it on the RJM pedal. I just got done feeding the horses and re-doing waters. It's 11:00pm and I am sweating, Welcome to the south Ga. heat for me.

Will do, and I appreciate the support. Right now, there is slight play in the pedal. I'll have a chance to look more closely after work/trying the MC trick.

[JLarson]

Update 6/21... still no luck bleeding the clutch.

One of my buddies who works at a local (non-nissan) dealership came by last night to give me a hand since my wife is in Jersey for work.

1)I've adjusted both the RJM clutch pedal to 0 AFP and adjusted the master cylinder clevis rod to make sure it's going in squarely/smoothly.
2) I pumped the clutch pedal 3x and held down. Friend loosened the connection at the master cylinder, and did get a bubble out of that. Repeated 2x more, until it stopped bubbling at that connection point.
3) We repeated everything we'd done before, again. Friend under the car at the bleeder valve, me pumping up the pedal (moderate speed so as not to froth the fluid and introduce bubbles), holding down at the end, he closes the valve. Regardless of what we did, we were still getting air bubbles out. We've checked all visible fittings/connections, and everything is tightened.

It almost seems like air is being reintroduced to the system somewhere. This is with a brand new master cylinder (oem) and a zspeed HD CSC. We've gone through the Zspeed procedure. We've gone through the FSM procedure. At best right now I have an incredibly notchy series of shifts (it did improve enough that I can get into gear - reverse is still a complete crap shoot) and side note, the midweight z1 flywheel sounds like a frigging tractor! I was expecting louder, but this is pretty crazy.

I'm pretty much ready to throw in the towel at this point, have it towed to RT Tuning and see what they can come up with. It's beyond my skill set at this point.